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Member Forums => Members S10\Blazer Projects => Topic started by: greencactus3 on December 07, 2012, 06:42:53 PM
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Starting a thread because i havent had a thread in here in a long time.
im getting it monday morning.
and since you all want pics, here's some pics of the 4x4s i've owned in my lifetime.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/5408_900918919123_119663_n.jpg)
$600 tracker. bought it as a cheap backup for the s10. little did i know that within a week or two of buying the tracker, i would blow up the s10's V6
obviously needed some poser shots
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/5408_900918929103_472541_n.jpg)
taking plastic bumper covers off and adding appropriately sized tires on offset wheels was a must (235/75/15 m/ts)
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/5408_900920046863_8374125_n.jpg)
soft top was falling apart, so i hand sewed it together in a 'coupe' shape
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/7431_941708925623_8182276_n.jpg)
added some wings for extra downforce
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/15342_976681724853_4715882_n.jpg)
relocated the fuel tank into the 'trunk' and added an airtank, compressor, and airhorns too
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/7431_941708950573_8101033_n.jpg)
decided i wanted a light rack
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/15342_977344606433_4823630_n.jpg)
with in-car adjustability
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/27748_10100180937042533_2412650_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/19842_10100117488054813_8378429_n.jpg)
open top fun!
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/25426_10100157011135243_7713665_n.jpg)
trimmed fenders
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/27748_10100180936962693_5449209_n.jpg)
great approach and departure angles
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/27748_10100180937112393_3756413_n.jpg)
and then i bought this (with a civic hatch between)
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/184601_10100389444496923_2336259_n.jpg)
which i made look like this
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/268184_10100702570694513_3491170_n.jpg)
and sold like this
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/428138_10101287578778623_528041124_n.jpg)
did a lotta little fab work on that truck, like the swing out bumper/hitch/tire rack.
I plan on making one similar on the zr2
probably afront bumper too.
and some rocksliders.
and a roof rack/lights
and a v8....
and blah. is it monday morning yet?
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The light rack is/was badass. You are one crazy fvcker with great ideas.
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its here.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/312810_10102146936239383_12025678_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/222335_10102146934907053_1305514435_n.jpg)
so far i have
-fixed the rear hatch latching issue (lack of lube plus someone broke the actuator arm short, and tried to ghettofix it, which jammed stuff)
-bought new rear glass hatch 'struts'
still need to:
-get battery hold down
-fix or replace cracked headlight brackets
-find a way to fix the crap mounted CAI... stock airbox would be ideal
-finish removing bug guard, vent visor glue/tape residue
-dexcool coolant flush. its getting browny
-replace burnt out fog light, and swap headlight bulbs from silverado
-replace malfunctioning o2 sensor or fix heater circuit for it.
-replace bulb in cluster for cruise
-bleed clutch
-adjust gas pedal height so heel toeing isnt impossible
-fix hacked tow harness
-fix non-working power mirrors
-replace bald tires
-find and fix steering slop. hoping it's a rag joint
-bend doors to fix wind noise. maybe need to do something with windows too
thats all i could think of today.... im sure it'll keep growing.
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Nice, can't wait to see more about the suspension!
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Very nice.
The '04 should have the 1mb version of the PCM, and cable throttle means its the fully contented one, so you're flex fuel prepped. For whatever thats worth. You just need to add a sensor. And marine intake. Then might as well add boost at that point
Whats your skidplate status? The early ZR2's were alum, lates were composite.
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nice to know! marine intake is required mainly for upping fuel injector size?
honestly, I havent checked if i even have a skidplate or not...
judging by the brute force approach taken by the PO, if it was composite, and it was in the way of anything, I would assume it is in several pieces, and the cracked off pieces held on by random sheet metal screws....
anyways, not too worried about it yet. more road-going issues to solve before worrying about off-road issues.
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H/L brakcets shouldn't be too hard to find at the JY. What is broken on them?
You should add the O2 to our list. I'm sure I've got an extra sitting around.
Have you checked the door pins yet before bending the doors?
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H/L brakcets shouldn't be too hard to find at the JY. What is broken on them?
You should add the O2 to our list. I'm sure I've got an extra sitting around.
Have you checked the door pins yet before bending the doors?
I believe the lower 'slots' where they sit into the core support are broken short. they may be long enough to be holding, but it was dark last night when i tried, so i'm not sure yet.
I think i have several O2s too, i havent dug through my stock yet.
door pins on the drivers side are good, pass side has some play, hoping it's just bushings.
I will try that before i bend doors on that side.
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i love those green slippers, are they comfortable and fuzzy?
great light bar idea
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sadly the green fuzzy warm slippers were short lived in a carpeted house.
update:
skidplate is indeed composite.
o2 sensors are fairly well connected to the exhaust, sprayed some pb blast on it for now to try again some other day. (can only get an open end wrench on it, unless i snip some wires which i don't want to do just yet
took the dash apart to get the cluster out, to realize that there is no cruise bulb, and most lights are actually LEDs anyways, and the only ones that don't light up at key on is
- 4wd service req'd (or something along those lines)
- tow/haul (doubt i'll ever see that one with a manual trans)
thats all i remember., either way, doesnt appear to be malfunctioning anywhere aside from possibly the service 4wd light.
so thats now all back together again.
i tried troubleshooting the non-working power mirrors, but following the wiring diagram, im have an idea where the problem is.
the backlighting on the switches are still lighting up, which means BRN and BLK wires are good, and since the power locks still work, the orange at F12 is still intact 12+, and since both left and right sides dont work, I'm gonna say that at the switch, orange wire at "G" does not have 12V going to it.
hopefully it's a simple problem that isnt tied into the viper alarm system deeply integrated into the truck (no idea how well quite yet, but really hoping for no scotch-locks)
worst case, if it's annoying i'll just tap off of the ACC power source going to the window switches nearby, Dk GRN @ "L" i believe.
the battery tray still does have a stud in it, so hopefully i can get the help! brand universal tie down thing for $1.98 and be done.
im running outta the quick and easy things to do in the 10 minutes of sunlight i have after i get home from work....
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o2 sensors are fairly well connected to the exhaust, sprayed some pb blast on it for now to try again some other day. (can only get an open end wrench on it, unless i snip some wires which i don't want to do just yet
Try unpinning the connector?
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o2 sensors are fairly well connected to the exhaust, sprayed some pb blast on it for now to try again some other day. (can only get an open end wrench on it, unless i snip some wires which i don't want to do just yet
Try unpinning the connector?
Or using an O2 sensor wrench?
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unpinning the connector will be a later plan if the pb blast doesnt loosen it enough.
O2 sensor wrench isnt available in my garage.... 7/8" wrench is the norm.
::)
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you can loan one from the parts store. that's what I've done in the past.
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got the stubborn o2 sensor out, ended up cutting the line, put in a spare, and so far no codes, and i idled it until running temp.
also bought an 07 honda fit for the girlfriend, (technically im just loaning her some money, she's gonna end up paying for it all)
but i did the negotiations with the dealership. last time i went there a couple weeks ago, i came home with a $9500 out the door price.
today, signed off for $8500.
I think i'm a good negotiator.
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oh and i am missing 1 skidplate. the middle one under the pan
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got a set of xtreme wheels from Harley today, mounted up the 265/70/16s I had on the silverado onto them, and put them on the blazer.
Contrary to popular belief that they will be well into the firewall, I have zero rubbage on a dry park steer lock to lock once I removed the flarettes off the front bumper and hammered the firewall/inner fender a touch. under flex i am sure to get some rub, but for daily driving, im not too worried.
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(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/262746_10102158045181973_960400333_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/31576_10102158044902533_82295312_n.jpg)
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It's always hard for me to sell off a nice thing, but when they look that good it helps.
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narrowed down the pwr mirror issue to the switch itself. the contacts within the switch were definitely green, did some sanding but only got the right mirror to be able to move left. other functions work if i jumper at the connector, so I just ordered a new (old) switch from ebay for $15. sure beats the new price of near $80.....
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(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/533491_10102160979601373_962041633_n.jpg)
polishing headlights seems to make a huge difference, we'll see how long it lasts before clouding/yellowing again.
also, dont put cardboard under your battery and leave it there for whatever reason....
this happens if you do.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/224827_10102160982570423_1131641340_n.jpg)
cardboard hols water and keeps the tray nice and wet aaaaalllll the time.
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drove it to work today... my steering box preload adjustment didnt do enough. I'm buying a new box, hopefully today after work.
plan is to get a zq8 box, and we'll see how the pitman arm transfer goes.
stock pitman arm and idler arms are horrid. with the @ full droop geometry, pushing the tires in 'yaw' causes the center link to move vertically quite significantly, purely on 'flex' of the 2 arms.
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That flex sounds a bit scary.
You probably know this already but some Jeep steering boxes are the same as the ZQ8s. They may be cheaper?
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/shea_3.html
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didnt know, but makes sense, but not a big deal, found a zq8 box for $50 at the local yard. Picking it up tonight, we'll see how smoothly I can do this..... and if i can do this without making a huge mess of power steering fluid
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I put a coffee can under the box and remove the hoses from the box first and it'll run around the box a bit, then rotate the steering wheel to push the fluid out of the box, gets enough that you can pull it off without it running everywhere.
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yup, i'll try my best to guesstimate where the fluid dribbless off of.
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I had some vague memories of this from my offroader reading. I had to google to find this internet forum knowledge on swapping in full size idler arms in place of another Zr2 idler.
http://www.s10extremist.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=18318
http://shop.synergyoffroad.com/Full-1-Ton-Idler-Arm-Upgrade-Kit-for-S10-Sonoma-Blazer-ZR2-4x4-Idlerarmbundle.htm
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while swapping in the zq8 box, i decided i might as well swap the idler and pitman arm too. pitman wasnt too bad, but the idler was horrid. glad i swapped that out.
Al, I had looked into those 'kits' and was unimpressed by the engineering of them. they are simply, bigger truck has a beefier arm, therefore if i manage to cobble together some sort of mount adapter to bolt it to my smaller blazer, the blazer will obviously work better.
so for now, stock replacements should be fine for me, especially since i want to stay stock height
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Sounds more than fair, good call IMHO.
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The stock idler arms in these trucks are terrible. I swapped mine out a long time ago with a moog arm. the replacement arm is different than the stocker.
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grr.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f19/zr2-rear-ujoint-problem-508683/
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new yoke solved the problem.
anyone have a good source for 8 degree pinion angle shims?
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The battery tray looks better then most I've seen so maybe cardboard helped...haha
never heard of more then a 3 degree shim but IIRC JTR's are stackable. I wouldn't do it...
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new yoke solved the problem.
anyone have a good source for 8 degree pinion angle shims?
What dimension or feature of the yoke changed from old to new?
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i have been known to make pinion shims in any angle
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i ordered some from a 4x4 store, steel 8 degree ones for not too much.
hopefully the holidays dont slow them down too much.
th old yoke's "tangs" were measurably worn. one day i might take a picture.
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put on the 8 degree shims and it looks and feels way better.
swapped out the rear shocks for some fresher bilsteins as well
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Driving it on the road yet?
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yup, it feels pretty good, i'd like to tighten up the steering a bit, havent figured out where it's bad yet.
still need to swap the front shocks,
got homelink to work, so that's a nice upgrade too.
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man, I've never heard of an 8 degree shim. I probably would have lowered the trans/transfer case. lol
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That was my suggestion, but he said "too much work" haha
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man, I've never heard of an 8 degree shim. I probably would have lowered the trans/transfer case. lol
Harley and i talked about this, and i decided that was way too much work. 8 degree shims worked out quite well, with very little work.
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could also cut and re-weld the spring perches if you needed to
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yea... because that's easier than just loosening 8 nuts, 2 bolts, and then sliding in 2 shims and retightening everything
been doing some reading on the bravada shaft upgrade.
basically replaces the 2 piece pass side axle with the stronger 1pc one found on awd s-series and astros.
that will definitely be on the list of things to look for in the junkyard next summer.
so far been taking the blazer to do small things like shopping and such... getting more comfortable with it, but definitely need to fix the floppy shifter and the loose steering.
sadly been too cold to be motivated to figure out the actual steering issue.
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could also cut and re-weld the spring perches if you needed to
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well, didnt like the long throw of the stock shifter, so i decided to make a short throw shifter, while completely maintaining stock appearance.
concept is real easy. cut up the stock shift arm, extend the distance between the pivot and the ball (i extended 2") and then make a 2" 'spacer' to lift the stock shifter housing upwards.
according to my quick rough math, adding 2" is about a 50% reduction in throw from stock.
as an added plus, the stock shifter's centering springs are 3 deflective disks. you can easily adjust the force required to move the stick laterally by adding or reducing the number of disks.
pics below:
I added a 2.25" section after cutting, because 1, the cutoff tool has a thickness, and 2, i used some length in order to have a dowel in the center to press-fit the sections together before welding.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/72558_10102243641596073_173998636_n.jpg)
underside of the housing spacer, also pictured, the extended shift arm
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/148962_10102243643926403_184585699_n.jpg)
topside of the spacer. I don't have easy access to cnc so it isnt quite as pretty, but it allows for the stock shifter gasket to be used and still seal.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/37088_10102243646571103_743576442_n.jpg)
1st gear
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/424052_10102243656181843_489919581_n.jpg)
2nd gear
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/487194_10102243650258713_1943153669_n.jpg)
3rd gear
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/582578_10102243648442353_1413228034_n.jpg)
4th gear
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/546993_10102243654285643_112974519_n.jpg)
5th gear
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/428217_10102243652648923_726127187_n.jpg)
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Nice!
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First of all, that's awesome. Secondly, I'm jealous that you have a 5 spd. Third, I wish I had a fraction of your knowledge/fab skills (that last one goes for most of you on this site).
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First of all, that's awesome. Secondly, I'm jealous that you have a 5 spd. Third, I wish I had a fraction of your knowledge/fab skills (that last one goes for most of you on this site).
thanks, but this anyone can do with some time with basic tools too (okay, alot of time if you dont have a mill) but still doable.
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i dunno if anyone else with the stock spare location on the 2dr blazers have been bugged about this, but i hated the visibility with it.
I like being able to see all around, and even going from a p/u to a suv was a big change, with the tinted rear windows, it was bad, and with the spare tire in the center of the rear window, it was unbearable for me.
so, i moved the spare.
down and over to the side, and along with that i mounted it with a bolt-on spare front hub. so it's a spare hub along for the ride all the time, AND it spins!
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/399130_10102249123500293_1166538293_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/550376_10102249125700883_1583441875_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/734422_10102249126349583_789774100_n.jpg)
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does it block the tag? I don't think the police would like that very much.
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it doesnt really, but depending on the angle, it might.
I plan on making a new rear bumper for the truck at some point, at which ill relocate the plate further left.
so far noone has complained yet.
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Just tell the cop you bought the truck like that and then show him it's cool because it spins, play stupid haha
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buy me!
http://protourings10.com/index.php?topic=1145.msg10904#msg10904
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it wears a hat now.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/944289_10102634245158403_524139775_n.jpg)
made some parts and very happy with how it all worked out.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/431887_10102634245632453_1485481558_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/401897_10102634246236243_1507177041_n.jpg)
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(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n229/greencactus3/154384994HCrk5cULRossLake201426_zps348e2032.jpg)
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n229/greencactus3/154384995IlfHvNH7RossLake201427_zps807100f5.jpg)
did some ice racing, beat a c7 vette wohoo!
http://www.pbase.com/nogaroblue/ice12014
(someone else's album)
FTD was set by a rusty-ass 4 dr blazer with a turbo 3.8 on studs.
very interesting build.
http://www.xceedspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194489&highlight=blazer
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Finally someone with a good 3.8L install thread! Thanks, been thinking about this swap for a DD pickup once I take my blazer beyond ability to DD.
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Cool! I did a winter rally-X event in the truck last weekend and got absolutely slaughtered. I achieved my one goal of not getting stuck but that's about where my success ended. Yours looks much more capable in the snow!
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recent upgrades:
(https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/p180x540/10168026_10103700530264503_840488517_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1.0-9/p180x540/10002921_10103700530444143_2130176622_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1.0-9/p180x540/1601184_10103700530568893_1187674687_n.jpg)
backup lights dont project too far, but the spread is pretty damn good.
(https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/p180x540/1383803_10103707323011783_1972306131_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/v/t1.0-9/p180x540/1511676_10103707323201403_1450435324_n.jpg?oh=172ab0d6a2e419c0784e92000798c352&oe=53AC5B1C)
and then here is the low beam (with relay mod) only vs LED bar only.
pictures actually dont do it justice, not sure if LED light isnt handled well with a camera, kinda like florescent?
either way, pretty impressed.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1.0-9/p180x540/10154451_10103707327807173_1502638443_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/p180x540/1912235_10103707327452883_2096321217_n.jpg)
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There isn't a huge appearance change without the stock roof rack, but it certainly looks less cluttered and more integrated. Also beefier. I really like it.
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thanks, it sure feels more rigid at least.
i've been standing on the basket to bolt up the spare and no worrisome flexing anymore.
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oh and i bet your s-series cant do this.
(https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/p180x540/1779779_10103608956244573_10995081_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/t1.0-9/p180x540/1922130_10103608956948163_481789401_n.jpg)
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You'd be surprised. I just have to back it up.
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Needs baja fenders now. :) Bolt on fronts and graft the bedsides onto the rear.
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would be nice, but cant justify that at all when these fenders are in good shape.
got my new ebay steering joint today, put it in, havent driven it yet but it sure looks good.
old rag joint had a ton of play too...
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10103729119601243&l=5748185444664077404
(https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/q71/s720x720/10177319_10103729120848743_1848054017314653897_n.jpg)
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so review of new joint:
in low speed and force inputs like when driving down a straight road, slight steering corrections: very little change. all the slop here is in the steering box.
in parking lots/turns (high force inputs where the slop is all preloaded out in one direction) made a huge difference. pretty happy there.
unfortunately i really want to get rid of the deadband slop during straightline driving.
i added a 1/4 turn of preload in the adjuster set screw thing, got no difference as well.
i need to look into that a little more and see exactly what it does....
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http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/129-0801-saginaw-steering-box-rebuild/photo-gallery/#1
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That's something that's been bothering me for a while now. We use ball-nuts on aircraft as well, they call it the rack piston, but it's a ball nut in aviation. And we've gone completely away from the recirculating ball bearing style because of problems with them being inconsistent and wearing the screw shafts. From cargo locators to flap actuators, they've all been converted to a solid nut with a bit of elastomer to seal the ends and they're so much more precise it's unbelievable. I'll see if I can't get some pictures of a cargo locator if we have one sitting around, they're only about twice as big as these, unlike the flap actuators we do that are 4" screw shafts.
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well, corner weighed the blazer because i was curious.
full DD trim with spare on roof, random shit in back, no driver.
25% 26% 51% Fr
24% 25% 49% Rr
49% 51% 100%
Left Right
1066 1094 2160
1003 1041 2044
2069 2135 4204
Damn....
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Just googling saginaw gears tonight. I assume you kept your original box for $30 to practice rebuilding?
http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?53495-Saginaw-Gear-Box-adjustment
The later manuals warn against adjusting the gear mesh before you adjust the end play. In big, bold letters - do not adjust gear mesh unless you adjust end play first. I'd believe the manual.
There are two adjustments - the big nut on the steering shaft end adjusts the end play of the worm gear. The screw on top of the box adjusts the sector shaft gear and worm gear mesh. If you adjust the screw without adjusting the end play, you're basically pushing the worm gear sideways in its bearings to remove the end play. This could be bad.
JMO - play it safe and follow the instructions in the Jeep factory service manual. You can maybe take shortcuts, like disconnecting the tie rod and steering shaft and leaving the box on the frame, but don't skip any steps or change the order of operations.
<edit> My '77 manual addresses adjustment directly, but it looks like the '76 and earlier manuals do not. Basically, they only cover complete disassembly and reassembly. Here's an '82 manual that covers adjustment: http://oljeep.com/gw/82_tsm/Part%202%20Section%20L.pdf It's not a very good scan, but the same warning is there that is in my '77 manual: "Always adjust wormshaft bearing preload <big nut on the steering shaft end> first; then adjust pitman shaft overcenter drag torque <little screw on top> last."
The link was dead, I found what he was talking about and updated it. Its the Jeep factory service manual. Good read on the internals. The text around Fig 2L-5 makes me wonder if you could remove material from your pitman shaft sector and increase the ratio.
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=129288
Absolutely do NOT try and eliminate the off-center clearance that you might notice when rotating the input shaft of your steering gear. There is designed-in clearance in the gear set off center. If you eliminate the off-center clearance you will damage the gear set when it tries to return to center.
The correct procedure is to remove the gear from the car. Tip the gear upside down and stroke it lock to lock to eliminate most of the fluid inside the gear.
Then use the following instructions:
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...epairPics4.doc
Jim
Some other discussion in threads assumes that the input gear is worn more in the center due to spending most of its life there. It would be interesting to measure the parts if you do try rebuilding.
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haha nope. it was $35 so i had to return it as core.
plus it was oozing fluid everywhere.
Sorry, I'm pretty sick of replacing steering gears on the blazer. I hope to never have to do it again unless I need an astro box if i ever go sfa
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Ahhh Jim Shea. That was the name/site I was trying to remember in the other thread. He has lots of great information on the Saginaw boxes as I believe he was an Engineer for Saginaw Gear.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/
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made some changes
(https://scontent-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/p180x540/11193230_10105176941085383_2959201265041422694_n.jpg?oh=7695e7436ce63a9ef12c52d29792c648&oe=55E51C1D)
and currently going through and replacing the rest of the front end parts. 4 proforged ball joints are now here, waiting on 4 new timken wheel bearings too.
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light update: fuel pump died, right around 130k miles, so not unexpected, just sucked it was when i was at work which is now near an hour away.
luckily Harley lives close by and is super helpful, thanks Harley!
now has a Walbro GCA758-2 (255lph) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpn-gca758-2
in there.
direct bolt-in swap, no cutting, no mods, no anything. super easy once you drop the tank, which is not easy.
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oh and looks like ive been slacking on updates here.
went from this
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/11705105_10105443624809063_2036780176319323039_n.jpg?oh=e555a881effacdad76b5a0c78dd089a5&oe=565B5E63)
to this
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/11692735_10105443624923833_380739519910967029_n.jpg?oh=750e59f709a6206137edb28ce914b228&oe=56446A0E)
and added this
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/11701164_10105443625013653_4452755985118008600_n.jpg?oh=6b82dde9e5c5062812acf7f8c89dcd18&oe=565A107A)
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Winches are awesome, they completely change your view on where you can go off road!
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Ohhhhh brand new battery tray. Where did you purchase it?
I didn't mention it when I saw it in person, but I like the bumper cut out. Is that for access to the controls?
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amazon of course, and yup, for clutch access and visual of the drum
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Nice winch! Did you have to add a second battery?
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nope, i don't see a need to at the moment.
I bent the winch plate already though.... I've been conversing with the guy that designed it to make it better.
it was design-flawed.
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couple updates:
got a new and improved winch plate.
looks like they followed EXACTLY the sketches I sent them saying "minimum needed gussets"
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/12043044_10105729725341303_1045153297553970377_n.jpg?oh=80e363daa6caf93868c1f1e59baec270&oe=5697A963)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/12042921_10105729727232513_2197062295934404177_n.jpg?oh=83f9a78b439f32706fed434a91603b46&oe=569C4089)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/12049574_10105729727616743_4343532870263773805_n.jpg?oh=31035d05bb0440492b1e9a0533e3da8d&oe=569D6ECC)
I hope my simple calculations work out.... maybe ill weld in a bit more before i paint it. when i said min, i meant safety factor of 1.0
since my right foot is out of commision i made a hand throttle.
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/12042827_10105735195923213_3509493783156675766_n.jpg?oh=aee0b95b4830d78c95c30a7bc852c54a&oe=56A4DF63)
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oh and the rear defrost tab fell off and the permatex conductive glue didnt work.
Thanks to Harley got a used glass super quick
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/12006121_10105729589528473_4160845260085604016_n.jpg?oh=a227a7691a3a679f9181fb24b11fdf00&oe=56A50343)
super annoying to swap on crutches.
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/12011388_10105729677422333_2662167255274787898_n.jpg?oh=662c8ce354a0323ce19d2050e828027c&oe=56A10FDF)
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I like how the junkyard glass is cleaner than the rest of the truck haha
I'm glad to see the crutches aren't slowing you down too much.
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I like how the junkyard glass is cleaner than the rest of the truck haha
I'm glad to see the crutches aren't slowing you down too much.
It definitely has some stubborn oil residue either on the inside or outside of it still.... I havent decided which.
Tempted to acetone it but i think tint dislikes it.
It's definitely slow.... and moving the spare glass to the back of the garage on one foot is kinda scary. dontfalldontfalldontfall....
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Factory tint should be fine with acetone knowing the requirements we set.
You need a parts cart! It's an awkward part to carry without the crutches, so I give you 5 well done's and a can of great soda.
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turns out a proforged balljoint boot is ripped already. 7550 miles on it.
luckily their warranty is good, so summitracing is shipping me a new one (they want the old one back though)
so i guess I'll be swapping it out this weekend with a bump foot still.
at least I cleaned up the garage enough that I can bring the blazer in and on the lift.
still a big pain on the 4x4s to swap a lower balljoint.
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turns out not only do you need to pull the wheel bearing to swap a lower balljoint, but actually the entire upright. that was annoying.
but all good again, got a nice coat of wax today, and jeez I added a bunch of scratches this summer....
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new and improved winch plate painted and bolted on, now with a modified aluminum skidplate too!
(https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/12108016_10105868812798923_8998788794087698381_n.jpg?oh=0f0f05a4d73606cd6c811faed3de21d8&oe=56B4845C)
(https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/12240120_10105874006949803_9025730008869564189_n.jpg?oh=f229b11143a86c35c66499ee9bcd1a83&oe=56AE4ECD)
also working on diff cover protection
(https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/11224313_10105883788647203_7009170537261727615_n.jpg?oh=9e43b530c56560242f99c385fd54df1b&oe=56B40EED)
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The diff armor is bad-ass 8)
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done, ready to surface "grind" the mating surface flat, and then paint
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/12274728_10105887619240663_987879896234208726_n.jpg?oh=c9a07425d7e276e17574d8d915029dad&oe=56EBEBA0)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/12246639_10105887619275593_4190822931321007221_n.jpg?oh=85dfe3527c9ba27bb36c6e0ee780274c&oe=56B85324)
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I made use of the warm weekend and headed to a junkyard with Harley.
picked up 2 wiring harnesses for a 5.3.
one from an 03 L59 that had some cuts in it, and another from a 02 L59 that was fully complete until I ran out of time before the yard closes, so I had to cut the trans connector area off.
I'll be working through Harley's harness rework thread and various wiring diagrams and trying to integrate the 5.3 harness into the Blazer's setup.
I've narrowed down to an 03 or 04 5.3, and at this point I'll probably try to get a flex fuel truck so I can keep the injector plugs.
Also grabbed the round heat sink style coil packs off the 02 since I got them off anyways, and the sunday bucket deal was good.
still undecided if I will go DBW or DBC at this point.
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/11140022_10105968127885693_6196638248314541830_n.jpg?oh=d8468c4f6e2d09356ebf9127c937c802&oe=56D4F589)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/12390991_10105964789341163_9166414588963766487_n.jpg?oh=26dc1f698a183d7b57377804a8e0e290&oe=571D9F5D)
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Big savings on the coil packs?
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yea, bucket sundays meant i got the harness, a maf, and the full set of round coils for <$50.
the coil brackets are a touch rusty but cheap enough that I can sell the set and make some profit
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picked this up today
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/l/t1.0-9/1934071_10106041161730283_6324631785517571569_n.jpg?oh=c4176f1c240b8a04786aae460945659d&oe=570DA366)
aluminum block!
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Nice!
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and it's in the house for cleaning and harness mock-up-ing.
I should have grabbed a blazer harness while i was at the junkyard so I can lay it out in a similar fashion
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlf1/v/t1.0-9/10352900_10106052163392863_3251362404617654976_n.jpg?oh=7db9342bf6c4c8f28c57e7a8e3508606&oe=57085348)
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for those of you not getting out there, because of various excuses, stop making excuses!!!
I trophied in the stock awd class of ice racing a couple weekends ago.
so much fun!
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/t31.0-8/12695034_10106160713382813_594755832634294835_o.jpg)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/12694911_10106160274347643_7962616265252051344_o.jpg)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/12697334_10208972131129300_9148043121504322441_o.jpg)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/l/t31.0-8/12715924_10208972122089074_6945004447529154558_o.jpg)
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videos too
run1
https://youtu.be/aVsgDdNRJzA
run2
https://youtu.be/zNx5UHeK7oo
run3
https://youtu.be/leFt9ErL4yo
run4
https://youtu.be/6_koGPJjoFM
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How far north did you have to travel to find safe ice?
Good thing you replaced all those bum ball joints recently.
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Some nice wallpaper shots there! I tried a winter rally-X in my truck once - it was very, very slow :(
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How far north did you have to travel to find safe ice?
Good thing you replaced all those bum ball joints recently.
Little past bay city.
yea, ice racing's extended periods of long RPMs took a toll on the blazer too,
had a accessory belt tensioner bearing go out and the rear u joint, which only had a touch over 30k miles on it.
it was on its last leg though, most of the needles were just dust when i took it out, not buying the "never need to grease ever" sealed duralast gold u joints anymore....
Some nice wallpaper shots there! I tried a winter rally-X in my truck once - it was very, very slow :(
all about the driver :P
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I should have said "I" was very slow instead of "it" was very slow!
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went offroading, starting to do way more technical stuff, lots of fun!
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/12832587_10106280026827713_1373672692492869582_n.jpg?oh=fe3c139048b5746f54b20bb67764aadd&oe=57915789)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10157296_10106280027331703_2401238755039926642_n.jpg?oh=9d2c3eb3563078f200f0520fa5a52628&oe=574F43FC)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/944846_10106280027576213_6983222867243512177_n.jpg?oh=e8717c27a1d1f0e31f49fb2c5a2b61ae&oe=575B040C)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/12814732_10106280027770823_3731396815177250632_n.jpg?oh=0b88debb70f82fa6f982fefa76668d81&oe=574A5DA9)
i tried my hand at rock climbing, failed miserably. the short wheelbase doesnt help there.
parking brake slowly stopped working, and the rear brakes started screeching.
took the wheel off today, shoes are worn and rear inboard pads are GONE. (6700 miles since i replaced them with brand new centric posi-quiets)
found GM Technical Service Bulletin # 00-05-23-005B, which says to use 15765007 to shield the rear caliper because apparently road debris causes premature rear inboard pad wear.
I wonder if I need to look into shielding.... i can't be swapping pads every oil change interval...
https://www.facebook.com/greencactus3/videos/10106279944333033/
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When was the last time the rear calipers were replaced/rebuilt?
On the long bed the rear disc brakes are so under-utilized I've had the calipers freeze up and do similar.
I have yet to have the parking brake last long on my Blazers. Just not enough leverage with the drum in hat.
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When was the last time the rear calipers were replaced/rebuilt?
On the long bed the rear disc brakes are so under-utilized I've had the calipers freeze up and do similar.
I have yet to have the parking brake last long on my Blazers. Just not enough leverage with the drum in hat.
I adjusted the parking brakes 5500 miles ago, and rust has eaten up the backing plates so there is definitely sand/mud intrusion on those. the progressively deep parking brake pedal throughout the offroading trip makes me think it just wore out.
the parking brake was working great the morning of the trip.
I adjusted them, and they are working great again.
oh and the shoes and all parking brake hardware is new as of 6680 miles ago, same time as the front and rear pads.
sliders and pistons are still smooth currently, and the calipers are both new 2 years ago, 23k miles.
I put duralast pads on at that time, and replaced them with the centric posi-quiets after 16500 miles because they didn't have the bite I wanted, even though they had pleeeenty of life left.
I ordered some ebc greens so we'll see how i like those + how long they last
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Went out to bundy hill this weekend, been there with dirt bikes before, never on 4 wheels.
wow there's such a variety of terrain.
Trail maps didn't help too much, so ended up doing some sketchier stuff than I originally intended, but no big damage, just tore off the lower valance and dented a rear bumper corner (I really need to make a higher clearance hitch/tube bumper)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpl1/v/t1.0-9/995305_10106311464556253_4152450243340332764_n.jpg?oh=1f4e4bccae897b1fa0977b32d16a54af&oe=574DCFC7)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xal1/v/t1.0-9/12027549_10106310748002233_3835852011968955946_n.jpg?oh=8aa3828bcf2549cbe0127a8bf4d91078&oe=5794D7B5)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtl1/v/t1.0-9/1936386_10106310748057123_5530573627932726843_n.jpg?oh=43bd9859590f73f68595184a3f8c36cc&oe=577DB85A)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/1913695_10106310748236763_4533247710352888815_n.jpg?oh=0fda0975929cb4d5fccd755bfe4bf809&oe=578353A7)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/1917859_10106310748446343_2996829836058702329_n.jpg?oh=7442330ebb6463260b55493d42d57dce&oe=57549761)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/11012353_10100494794529881_336661693583456596_n.jpg?oh=94747c9b41f01de6355a32d27cc7613b&oe=578E1092)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10593008_10100494807703481_7047156093267612068_n.jpg?oh=06f1b7d17d1ea23792f33c228e4ebbaf&oe=574C7A34)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xla1/v/t1.0-9/12003229_10100494807938011_1201411382886645848_n.jpg?oh=dbee945bc19fbfc4ca98e014ef802d3a&oe=5755005D)
https://www.facebook.com/zoomswimmer/videos/10100494795143651/
https://www.facebook.com/zoomswimmer/videos/10100494795552831/
https://www.facebook.com/zoomswimmer/videos/10100494797094741/
I forgot to put it into low range on this downhill oops
https://www.facebook.com/zoomswimmer/videos/10100494797858211/
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I honestly wouldn't be too surprised if normal driving did any of that in that time frame. More so on a truck with little weight back there, but it's the same design. I'm glad the adjustment worked out though.
I also think Parking Brakes hate me. I don't have any vehicles that have lasted Parking Brakes. Right now only the Isuzu has a great functioning one haha
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Yea, parking brakes are difficult to keep maintained for some reason. the Blazer is the only one in my household that has a (currently) functioning parking brake
Picked up some more parts yesterday.
a third hatch glass in hopes of having intact defrost lines (nope, 1 broken, but better than 3 broken on the last one)
came with a nice vintage '09 ORV sticker that is really stuck on there. time for a razor blade i think
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtl1/v/t1.0-9/12920497_10106362478164573_2125125722476682911_n.jpg?oh=01eac671a890ad5a732276a9bed298fe&oe=5777F43E)
sliders and stock non bent blazer zr2 leafs.
hopefully I can get the bolts out, guy parting this truck obviously could not.
If not, anyone know if the rubber leaf eye bushings are available? I'd prefer to stay rubber instead of other materials for this truck.
My hope is to use the 2nd leaf on my current leaf pack with this new pack to maintain a little more height with load, and hopefully not affect articulation too much.
Anyone know if I should shorten the leaf so I don't have 2 leafs of the same length on there? is that a stress on the main leaf issue that you don't see that ever?
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/12417893_10106362478498903_935643910623468643_n.jpg?oh=2a27ce826c08a3ed676cd02f4c2d2081&oe=57812789)
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Those sliders look beefy.
If we get the chance before I leave we should check how good the glass from my Blazer is for the defroster. I don't actually use the defrost grid. I only have it for the factory tint and I'd be willing to trade straight up if it is fully functional.
15963452 is the part number I ordered for the front of my ZQ8 leaves. I never installed them and am currently saving them for my Blazer Z87 leaves. I'm really missing my access to the official parts catalog because the information around the web is conflicting. My usual online go to listed 3.01" LG, 2" THK (76.5MM TL X 50.67MM THK) (http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/products/Chevrolet/2004/BLAZER/BUSHING-Rear-Spring/2808087/15963452.html) for the dimensions.
I'm finding 14027938 for the shackle, but I'm guessing that may be the frame side of it all.
Al might look them up if you drop him a nice email, but I know he's been busy at work lately.
Heat will be your friend if you want any chance of getting those out. Rubber isn't the biggest fan of fire though.
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Yea, I'm trying to lower my center of mass with them :P
supposedly .25" wall on the square stuff, and .12" wall on the round stuff.
absolutely unnecessary, but they were the price of material if not cheaper so i couldn't pass them up
Cool, I have 3 glasses for you to choose from, the 2nd one had a scratch but both the first and newest ones have no scratches as far as i've noticed. No big deal though, I wouldn't have bothered again but it was a bundle deal so I decided I'd get it. No picture but I got a full door too to use as sheet metal to patch my rust spots in front of the rear fender arches.
Thanks for the part #, but from what I've read online, the ZR2s got bigger eyes in the leafs, (makes sense, gets more "twist" room) so that may not work.
Yea that looks like the frame inserted bushing on the rear side.
No worries, I have sources at GM still if i need to, I'm hoping i can get the bolts out without destroying the bushings. I won't be getting to this until the vette is complete and daily driver ready so no big hurry.
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on a side note, I have been looking for a replacement rear driveshaft for the blazer, do you know if I can get an automatic zr2 blazer's driveshaft?
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I might have a ZR2 shaft in the barn too... Get measurements and I'll see how mine matches.
I don't know if the auto and the manual are the same or not. I'd guess yes, though.
What do you suspect is wrong with the actual driveshaft? No matter which one I choose from my stockpile for the Blazer I'll have to get it shortened.
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I might have a ZR2 shaft in the barn too... Get measurements and I'll see how mine matches.
I don't know if the auto and the manual are the same or not. I'd guess yes, though.
What do you suspect is wrong with the actual driveshaft? No matter which one I choose from my stockpile for the Blazer I'll have to get it shortened.
You wouldn't want mine. has a small chunk missing from the rearward end on one side where the circlip for the retainer seats in. luckily the chunk is small enough that I just set the circlip "open end" there and havent had an issue, but I would feel better if I replaced it. It's been like that since I bought the truck, not sure if someone had a bad day replacing the ujoints before or if they bashed it on a rock.
I still have my aluminum shaft from the longbed if you wanted to use that
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So it's the U Joint carrier that is broken? Bummer. We can certainly work out a trade if it's the right size as I have a selection of Aluminum shafts and all will work for my project.
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here's an old pic. I didn't realize it was broken at the time
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t31.0-8/200893_10102174461952633_320758734_o.jpg)
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made it out to bundy again today, in the april snow!
things get super slick and difficult, especially offcamber things in the snow.
also came across some white mud which had the consistency and look of cake frosting. super weird and my durtracs couldnt clear them off at all.
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/1936352_10106400807347583_2999454957949922234_n.jpg?oh=7ac5aebb5dad1a23d4dc3a6e68756d6e&oe=57B49427)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/12993528_10106400807492293_4060697121730520381_n.jpg?oh=e5d37a6a673ba9b777a0830316e655af&oe=5775F6BA)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/12986988_10106400808185903_2946702339926640310_n.jpg?oh=f7045028b6030980722f1d531bb788d6&oe=57B277EF)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/12936666_10106400808215843_7753907424157741669_n.jpg?oh=b07030364e631151fb2c8a826137eb8c&oe=578ABD32)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/12936700_10106400808290693_5446169782231475576_n.jpg?oh=95cc2cdde864635d135cc0392634fbef&oe=57C0A6EC)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/12919820_10106401256597283_7500617661886018716_n.jpg?oh=bdf1794ab924a8fa8d2193fffa867b27&oe=57B59F6A)
Also on the way home got the dreaded whine from this.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f220/4x4-front-differential-operation-explained-and-grinding-from-front-end-506164/
I guess i'll be getting a bravada shaft soon
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Any thoughts on keeping the selectable front axle and adding a locker to the front end?
I remember frustration at my offroad blazers when scaling hills and shifting weight off the front end, one tire would usually break free and thats as far as i would get. Some kind of locking diff for the front was always on my wishlist.
I suppose if you found a selectable locker then the bravada shaft would be fine.
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I've thought about it, but neither option short of welding the diff seems to be an option.
Have you come across aftermarket lockers for the front diff?
I typically like to err towards reliability over ultimate performance. I do have issues with unloading a front wheel limiting me, especially compared to the triple torsen+center+rear locking FJ cruiser I usually go with, but overall my skill level isn't high enough that I care too much yet. there are still plenty of other challenges and right now the rear hitch dragging on everything is by far the lowest hanging fruit that needs attention.
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replaced the already bad @ 17k mile timken front wheel bearing, found more damage.
didn't expect this... although i see why it could fail ith the offroading.
Dorman 31064 Help Control Arm Bumper 20k miles
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13124691_10106473136768843_6763900644931742467_n.jpg?oh=b8f5964cecbe9fc58c7767728805c2af&oe=57A339DC)
and mocked up the sliders i got and started taking the rust and powdercoat that trapped moisture apparently all off
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/13082752_10106473136803773_2695547655793065897_n.jpg?oh=fdc8814b1fbf309436a1cdbb1549b5d9&oe=57BD728E)
needs some work to fit though
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/13082492_10106473136873633_1653833347906308592_n.jpg?oh=79b70c0f641bb1907867952f09a1f6c5&oe=57B54307)
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Love this blazer, nice change of pace. Looking forward to seeing more wheeling pics.
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slight updates:
rust hole
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14095711_10106960331716263_9068972952317386716_n.jpg?oh=3c26c29ce83a11aab240fa8bda3f310e&oe=58580797)
rust hole removed
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14079935_10106960331801093_2951191380878998527_n.jpg?oh=33a5d28a41013d1c192a3df92e83a860&oe=5844DE73)
donor sheet metal
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14064123_10106960331875943_251611840051036506_n.jpg?oh=1090c139aec1f94c10478d30b8c9d8b7&oe=5848702D)
fitted
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14141558_10106960332015663_4780307464839339263_n.jpg?oh=ffbf5504afa4137f2b68ca83f91eecee&oe=583B7AEA)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14054260_10106960332060573_6785883097671888715_n.jpg?oh=1c3030892015cc5eebde07b02af79a53&oe=583887C0)
leaf spring removal
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14184529_10106963577686313_6385768918210166502_n.jpg?oh=9db8974e82aa50392ad9feab6dbaab1f&oe=58420162)
4 leaf bastard pack made with a modified ZR2 blazer main leaf under the original main leaf, and gave the tbars 5 turns to even it out (now at "spec" Z-height range)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/l/t1.0-9/14088509_10106964814113503_3940486657714806192_n.jpg?oh=3fc72506ef561bd6bf690c5c87c3d78e&oe=5852BFAB)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14141764_10106966433428383_4719752379788240208_n.jpg?oh=b3459d929b2f5eed382596681b5edd45&oe=58827FAA)
and got around to bedlining the bottom half
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14142004_10106970249790363_5287717499778398416_n.jpg?oh=24833ac7869f4c6bbe56024a37a4bcfc&oe=58484367)
now rushing to get the rock sliders on there for offroading over the next couple weekends
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Looks great. I need to learn how to properly repair rust like that, the box on mine is getting rotten despite undercoating it every year.
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oh i forgot to post pictures from my latest offroading at drummond island.
went up for a 3 day weekend but came back on the 2nd day because my buddy in the FJ shattered a CV and I lost the tcase shift motor function
decided to car camp rather than pitch a tent. Blazer is the perfect size for that with a dog
also got a ton of poison ivy :(
here's a bad stuck i got into, had to winch out of it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMkz9HQW69o
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14183803_10106993379004233_820570283814788471_n.jpg?oh=faf0053a886436a5eaf09542ad958059&oe=58777ED8)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14184406_10106998494622493_301673667127960735_n.jpg?oh=3d517f017b780db5be81d1ec00f8734e&oe=583D3D97)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14199543_10106998498844033_4064040900652477751_n.jpg?oh=ce54fc2bf665225dd40191045e088d66&oe=5870D722)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14199400_10106998498978763_4562998402772803873_n.jpg?oh=de223e75e2ae5482d821809a55e10c2b&oe=5879A2FB)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14264211_10106998505550593_7123128941942444399_n.jpg?oh=2196702b945c7ba94611e0b6df2488c5&oe=5837C4B4)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14199515_10106998505685323_237441094317507594_n.jpg?oh=597e4c178dc16fa1a8d0df8bd1b65b57&oe=58856D5D)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14192685_10106998506593503_1267854820307377811_n.jpg?oh=fcd2ff41538118da8396d889136ce237&oe=58748CB5)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14212157_10106998506987713_4721321882203060171_n.jpg?oh=6ac6bf58a085b8fbd2e14c905fe7fd30&oe=587F36F7)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14233209_10106998507087513_863238568196676943_n.jpg?oh=1650c3f82314d522bee9822323d965d1&oe=586E2DEB)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14199662_10106999603754783_672279720505756892_n.jpg?oh=602ac531b3b95ac1837556db08e4a8ce&oe=58451090)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvCEGQEoM0A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcOhWDNZVKc
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busted up the t case stock skid plate so ordered an aluminum one from an earlier 4dr blazer from ebay.
looked like it would be a bolt-on, but the trans crossmember on my blazer has a "droop" that required quite a bit of material removal :(
also finally got around to welding on the rock rails from a while back
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14368832_10107054731618103_2255142208833230307_n.jpg?oh=6ff720d649d26eb2f1e09ec1fdb41cbb&oe=586C6994)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14355196_10107059228176963_412164242527917113_n.jpg?oh=ba2c5cdfbc2e6d4101dbd23ab993db5e&oe=5886096F)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14370176_10107059231141023_8664239997922990039_n.jpg?oh=7fd0abbe09244c0d0b7b27ab2bcedddc&oe=58396D31)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14390974_10107059230986333_7607914640653178605_n.jpg?oh=e6a4f1550dbe72cc802f4ced361f6ed6&oe=586FE453)
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Well I lost the clutch here
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14484591_10210877250512307_6054287722519194061_n.jpg?oh=cc9a49a55b7824edef6ad3a585a81950&oe=58AE0A4C)
Still not exactly sure what happened but this is what it looks like now
https://www.facebook.com/greencactus3/videos/10107104762081653/
Either the clutch insta-wore out in the mud, or the PP springs broke, although everything looks reasonable.
Waiting to compare to a new clutch/PP when it arrives.
flywheel side
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14492622_10107104780809123_369388607595483768_n.jpg?oh=bedb3534b6a0223530bffc23a6f4d02f&oe=587E21FC)
pp side
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14462966_10107104780953833_3352957247019864179_n.jpg?oh=08e5dc917730c465ab9ea03cee186e3b&oe=58682076)
it does appear to be flush sitting still.
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14492622_10107104781008723_8161932510010158156_n.jpg?oh=1eaba6c726042433aab7a9f367a94fe1&oe=58735A38)
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Weird, it just wouldn't hold at all?
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Looks like the best place you could lose a clutch.
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did some more local offroading...
managed to not get stuck a single time, including when i stalled it here.
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14568227_10207475034054513_2352078220081396099_n.jpg?oh=740875a841004ab8814a4742504055ab&oe=58949D9C)
But, started overheating later, appears the fan clutch has failed so i'll be replacing that today.
still having a weird intermittent Tcase problem, would really like to figure it out or I'm going to manual convert it....
also started on things that are somewhat excitingish
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14680591_10107196093258243_5509069009744083599_n.jpg?oh=a4f2e2a9854a9958a5bf3e098d8cd3db&oe=58A709ED)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14708335_10107196093298163_1647313373686319378_n.jpg?oh=e5aa174c6d65ff24be8291c14e3f24b9&oe=589D1B16)
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Is that based on my CAD work?
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Is that based on my CAD work?
yup, i hope you did it right, I'm basing it entirely on your work, and hoping it doesn't have to come back out for a re-notch after the first test fit.
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I'm hoping it is right too! I'm confident in the data, but not so confident in the manufacturing tolerances.
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I'm hoping it is right too! I'm confident in the data, but not so confident in the manufacturing tolerances.
Haha we'll know next year (hopefully)
onthe other hand im bringing back minitrucking trends from decades ago...
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14681787_10107215258735473_7432112215936360246_n.jpg?oh=913e165a11877dafadf0e254a442c173&oe=58907CB4)
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14718769_10107215834676283_8747669485297168954_n.jpg?oh=6544b91ee7703954606d0e82e243f1dc&oe=58A0352F)
mainly the stock rear bumper/hitch is dragging on everything so i'll be making a lower profile one, but needed a place to put the license plate.
This was the easiest solution that keeps the plate from getting ripped off by trees in the next trip
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You should have angled it up ;D
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Getting comfortable with body work? How did that work with the gate latch mechanism?
I still want to mount my Blazer plate in the tailgate although I've tossed around the idea of building a bracket that attaches to the frame either above or below the roll pan I also dream of installing. Most likely it will be zip tied to the frame to start with...
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Getting comfortable with body work? How did that work with the gate latch mechanism?
I still want to mount my Blazer plate in the tailgate although I've tossed around the idea of building a bracket that attaches to the frame either above or below the roll pan I also dream of installing. Most likely it will be zip tied to the frame to start with...
I can do bodywork, it'll hold structurally, and blending with body filler is just a matter of patience (I plan on smoothing it a bit this weekend)
You can judge quality of the weld/fit tonight.
I can help, but i don't guarantee any results.
I placed it about as low and to the left as I can without needing to do anything with the latch or anything else. simply cut a rectangle in the skin and cut away some material from the inner layer and that's it.
there's probably quite a few locations you can place the box without interference with any components internally, I just wanted it on the left side in case I decide to add the swing out gate again, and as low as possible so the box tips "down" for better water drainage from the lower surface.
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doing things....
junkyard haul
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14717291_10107229123680013_2921218396329976105_n.jpg?oh=28c72f8a5c45594eff90db8767030acb&oe=58A09A4D)
patching things
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14731190_10107255984795123_305078366549237098_n.jpg?oh=8d33e95b30c764b209d1bb0f1794a60b&oe=589178AD)
making things
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14724504_10107260853692813_3545254802647685178_n.jpg?oh=b9f537f8fb2b7c02ef6c16a1f85e7f53&oe=5899F846)
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(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14947648_10107289660239263_4619997326140438056_n.jpg?oh=6273225fe544daf50c7d34d334b41f5f&oe=58959F7E)
I added a 3/8 square so I can manually shift it without difficulty in case there is any issue with the push pull cable at some point (also while I don't have a lever built yet) I'm hoping I can access that without even pulling the skid plate off
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14956374_10107289654695373_4677243471619887483_n.jpg?oh=57bc94538604c40ab22497a0fe7873ae&oe=58CF267E)
had to bend some things to clear the strut but got it to fit.
routing the cable over the trans was not easy
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14947911_10107289651905963_8208974486389842450_n.jpg?oh=e349496dce2caac97e189628b5fcb15e&oe=589D6C58)
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By "3/8 square" you mean the top of a socket? haha The red paint should make it all easy to find!
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By "3/8 square" you mean the top of a socket? haha The red paint should make it all easy to find!
Exactly, gotta find a use for all the cheap chinese sockets I have everywhere!
finished it up, ended up being a lot more complicated than I wanted, mainly to retain room for the passenger seat to slide forwards for better in/egress for the rear seats
https://www.facebook.com/greencactus3/videos/10107299486163033/
notice the stock switch lights work correctly.
https://www.facebook.com/greencactus3/videos/10107299503787713/
I would still like to reduce the detent harshness, anyone have success trying to make it softer?
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14937380_10107299514316613_1229159356815174047_n.jpg?oh=a188764585756c89cb5789f8cc541cba&oe=589AFB8E)
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had another fun trip last weekend
i learned that the terrain changes significantly over time, so an easy way up a hill last trip might be a significant drop off this time.
always walk it first when you can't see over a crest.
luckily no real damage.
I'd also love to step up to a bigger tire now.
33s would be nice, but I'm already lightly rubbing at extreme travels and steer angles.
anyone ever try pushing the body of a blazer backwards? the firewall is the limitation and that seems easier than moving the front axle forwards without going solid axle.
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/l/t1.0-9/14937361_10154110171958087_1734150794127443135_n.jpg?oh=cae7797feb64ad187d6216a4c6f63702&oe=58923839)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14925546_10107309608712363_3465093038386383510_n.jpg?oh=ac0647a4487d1b972657f61369be19c5&oe=58CACAB9)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14915576_10107309608812163_5750661503418106918_n.jpg?oh=9a505905f5bf3fb2cbac27babad7a5c5&oe=58881A4D)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14993308_10107309608887013_18575865702772048_n.jpg?oh=13a89d838a32a716759ba901f45b2e29&oe=58C77FFD)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14925431_10107309609211363_610388390400681253_n.jpg?oh=f4a19395da061940ae157b83102dc97f&oe=589A8FE5)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14980738_10107309609400983_6710757382367705599_n.jpg?oh=1b470ddc5204a837f19295ed1d21a337&oe=58D39EFA)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14908286_10107309610239303_176512022965632298_n.jpg?oh=61b947269c556421477047b6135c5918&oe=58CCB583)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14900517_10107309610788203_990637332424076041_n.jpg?oh=ea630a55a33e77389b1eb4096a42ff54&oe=58962735)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14915728_10107309610942893_1228809224273749924_n.jpg?oh=82d6666d3db3e00a9129b08d6b9cd9ba&oe=589534FD)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14925283_10107309611377023_2398874773679973850_n.jpg?oh=571e4a63509439beabb3d3c2d56fee50&oe=58C834B4)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14963197_10107309612429913_4115926441620495104_n.jpg?oh=8ae67e9adc54b449147fabce5102a4c1&oe=58CBF905)
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Damn that looks fun!
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i started building something
and my welds are getting prettier
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15036745_10107341209668793_9056935909311222036_n.jpg?oh=f5d3106442f5a9ad46dd62c9ca5dcafb&oe=58C449EB)
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14211933_10107341209878373_2679260495045303402_n.jpg?oh=a897dedb7ea301d2dc2787b8279dfaff&oe=58C1577F)
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15094274_10107342073876913_4237085120491071696_n.jpg?oh=fb6a8a997352f8c293b5bcf19bdafe63&oe=58907C6B[img]
[img]https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15094274_10107342073876913_4237085120491071696_n.jpg?oh=fb6a8a997352f8c293b5bcf19bdafe63&oe=58907C6B)
started to get really heavy to lift and install alone.
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15085703_10107365195046903_1282556581205016069_n.jpg?oh=a85cc71904c1ebbfa144b5c456d52039&oe=58CE1051)
swing out tire carrier build starts tomorrow
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(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15094319_10107374820846723_4880132769605424701_n.jpg?oh=74c469aed0e83e974d6c6db9cc213c51&oe=58C6DA3B)
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15094931_10107374820966483_6969394280113026980_n.jpg?oh=8ca9adbfb6b2d277d3490fda718db104&oe=58C3F415)
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15085741_10107374821171073_8958344231995205056_n.jpg?oh=8f05240efcc5bbe27d78bcda0b9ec3ac&oe=58D43AB8)
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15107363_10107374821235943_9142764604156676048_n.jpg?oh=113fbafada0484496882ccbf96d96341&oe=588A58A0)
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15055857_10107374821325763_6985572742941723666_n.jpg?oh=628241415ddb8a4beec23b41b80b8fac&oe=58D12B90)
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Woohoo! Improved aero!
Bumper looks really great, though. Will this give you the departure angle you were hoping for?
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Looks good !!
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Will this give you the departure angle you were hoping for?
I hope to see some increase in empeegees!
thanks guys!
as for departure angle, it'll be a significant upgrade, but only offroading some more will tell me if it's enough or not.
finished up the swing out today, freezing my butt off all day.
hopefully paint dries in 30 degree garages....
good enough "for now" status, I definitely want to add a gas strut and opening limiting device at some point.
also a pair of brand new grade 8 5/8" bolts I had (and decided to use for the latch system) turns out to be bent.
this has caused me major headaches all day as the should-be-sliding bolt (used as a pin) is binding up everywhere.
been doing a looot of sanding on this bolt to make it run smoother, but i think i still have a bit more to go to get it to slide as smooth as i'd like it to.
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Looks great for sure. It's much 'leaner' looking on the truck than I expected it would based on those first build pics you posted.
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aaand done-ish now.
fun fact - rustoleum hammered finish paint will not fully dry in 24 hours in sub 30 degree temps.
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15178127_10107390928960933_6049627866091277746_n.jpg?oh=7243129f95afbe83d0c823b7f8346a59&oe=58D3ABA8)
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15134775_10107390928801253_831758811990485054_n.jpg?oh=0ea81647407f217c420f40de9947d7ef&oe=58D379D9)
https://www.facebook.com/greencactus3/videos/10107391009963603/
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Done!
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15171118_10107432314743493_870768978673759707_n.jpg?oh=cabd6516166571ac629b9d4aa2d1307a&oe=58C32B7C)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15192745_10107432314808363_6014890851613643370_n.jpg?oh=ebb900e8381b6fb2c227247fbb7a8435&oe=58BD9612)
https://www.facebook.com/greencactus3/videos/10107432423834873/
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Saw this in person yesterday. Very high end fab work with all the struts and latches integrated into the tire carrier.
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Went wheeling in the snow.... and frozen-but-not-frozen-enough-ice with snow on top
ice was about 2" or so thick, so thick enough to support partial weight of the truck, and then it gave out over the deep part. with all the snow over the ice and no tracks, I had no idea i was even over a puddle until I was in the water. I was actually still in 2hi at that point.
So sank it in a big puddle, and the symptom was an intermittent starter and a reversed clutch pedal function.... press the clutch to engage, foot off to neutral.. WTF!
(i need to disable the clutch safety switch for situations like this apparently)
i could get it to not slip up to 3/4 gear but not in 5th
limped it home, from the park like that, (my left leg is gonna be huge!)
and then a mile away from home something popped and i have zero clutch now.
I assume the slave cylinder couldnt handle being at max pressure (im pretty sure i maintained over 100 lbs of pedal force the entire way home) for 1.5+ hours and something let loose
had a buddy flat tow it home.
What a day.
the drivers side was underwater long enough that i was soaked up to my ankles inside (door seals can only hold for so long, recovery took quite a long time since it was so slippery out.
This is on a 3 month old LUK clutch/pressure plate.
We'll see what it looks like when it comes out.....
blazer is currently in the garage making a big mess on the floor, with a box fan attempting to dry the carpet (seat is out and wood under the carpet to space it up)
and I think i finally got the home furnace working again (that failed saturday early morning and noone had the parts i needed in stock, so amazon 1 day shipping got it to me today around noon)
I have no drivable winterable vehicles currently so I'm off to borrow a buddy's beater focus that I might eventually buy.
Ugh. what a shitty experience, especially for a day when i was planning on going nice and easy and not break anything because it's snowy and limits are low.
Oh on top of that I apparently poked a hole in one of the duratracs. it was low on the way home so i pumped it up, but this morning the wheel was completely on the ground.
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Brutal. Hopefully the clutch survived. Sounds like you're having a shit week man.
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I'll place my bets on the pressure plate getting boned, but not exactly sure how. Brutal is a good word for that situation.
Not going for the wheel bearing and timing belt for a super awesome winter audi? 8) Ever since it started snowing I've been missing that car, but that probably means it is better that it is yours now. Focus!
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I'll place my bets on the pressure plate getting boned, but not exactly sure how. Brutal is a good word for that situation.
Not going for the wheel bearing and timing belt for a super awesome winter audi? 8) Ever since it started snowing I've been missing that car, but that probably means it is better that it is yours now. Focus!
Yea, I agree PP is likely, but can't figure out how or what the solution should be.
A heavier duty or even a racing puck clutch wouldn't change the PP design significantly.
Nope, Audi is too nice to expose to the saltiness yet.
I do still plan on making the audi the main project car at some point so i can't make it rusty
Plus I don't even have a title for it yet :P
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after it got recovered
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15420850_10107518287468463_40051413546814133_n.jpg?oh=ff63ed3810ba09eebbc059b977d8ac31&oe=58F4F017)
an earlier puddle that appeared out of nowhere.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15420839_10107518287293813_7026583470592787203_n.jpg?oh=08e2b1828e8307a3610941aa7ef0a6b3&oe=58ECCED8)
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15442324_10107518287059283_7496885531370598872_n.jpg?oh=3399b12e1103ff887662af4b3e9781a4&oe=58E5FEB2)
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I do still plan on making the audi the main project car at some point so i can't make it rusty
Plus I don't even have a title for it yet :P
Now who would be holding onto that title too long?....
They're actually known for their excellent rust proofing, but I'm sure that will only last so long.
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Looks like that would be fun (driving in the snow) I live in Fla so dont get to see it that often.
Last year I drove the Blazer to Wisconsin but didnt see much snow & what was out the 2wd didnt like. LOL Spin city with regular tires.
Green Where do you live ??
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finally got around to fixing the blazer. ended up replacing clutch, slave, and master.
i think i need to take it easy for a while, but ice racing season is about to begin :)
I live in Michigan.
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Go racing.
Did you get water in everything? I was tearing apart my old slave the other day and they're stupid simple - a groove all the way around the center with a rubber seal stuffed in there is all that applies the pressure.
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(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16174963_10107722515533783_3581587638710813842_n.jpg?oh=da89bd2b76b0944548370e0441e83822&oe=59126183)
it's gained near 300 lbs in less than 2 years....
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Yeah but the weight distribution front/rear is in supercar territory!
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Yeah but the weight distribution front/rear is in supercar territory!
Nah, more like 370z territory where i can market 50/50 under acceleration *rolls eyes*
Pretty sure more supercars are running a higher rear bias
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9UDUX8GWsQ&feature=youtu.be
Had some fun on the rocks today, first time I've ever been able to make it over them.
I didn't take an overall picture, but here's the rock pile (from google searching)
(http://media.mlive.com/outdoors_impact/photo/10219403-large.jpg)
It was extremely muddy today so it took a while to scrape the mud off the tires and get any grip.
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16807648_10107892587523153_8688549127439487729_n.jpg?oh=735143821584b228ff157da5de41fa03&oe=594793E9)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16649244_10107892587617963_5239819218009553886_n.jpg?oh=5bebf28ba1c2683d9a956d96e610c391&oe=59450E41)
nothing broke this time, managed to get enough mud stuck up in my t case shifter area that i had to drop the skid plate and manually shift out of 4 low later though.
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my assumption of a jammed up shifter was correct.
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-0/p526x296/16804043_10107901878374213_4919121046942253069_o.jpg?oh=19a5b36a355cf264792979f0621c8019&oe=5941D14B)
forgot to take pics but i clearanced everything more to let rocks fall out and not stay in there (hopefully)
but i did lose the socket drive function as a result. hope the cable actuation stays working!
I also added a significant extension to the shift lever to reduce force required to shift.
looks goofy now though. no pics since the paint is drying on it now
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Went offroading over the weekend, got stuck, no big deal, I'll winch off a tree straight in front of me.
dropped the tree on my truck.
luckily it seems to have bounced off the roof rack/shovel (shovel head left a nice dent in the roof) but it took out the quarter glass and crunched the door at the a pillar quite a bit.
Definitely won't ever do that again. tie up to a tree further away and still check for deadness.
I knew it was a dead tree but it was about a foot in diameter so i tied up as low as i could and thought i could get away with it.
Separate from that incident I got in a pretty tight spot and had to use a tree to clearance the B/C pillar area (luckily there was no more glass there anymore)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17156212_10107963878625213_8760579359241417962_n.jpg?oh=b8f874f3306118976e5a84fc4a8e2728&oe=593A4F37)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17191036_10107963879348763_354701643094521618_n.jpg?oh=d92b9bccb3db39e5d6decd6f2575c2a7&oe=596657D1)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17190804_10107963879358743_4016442023791200086_n.jpg?oh=fca01fdf53993acbd9f1fae102752e49&oe=596593DD)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17156124_10107963878979503_3127950397204446888_n.jpg?oh=944a22d50aae0f5a0272395d6ac7886e&oe=59389698)
Last night i got new glass and a door, so no big deal (dark green for a GMC doesn't match a dark green on a chevy apparently....)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17190617_10107969677144933_7752694849701894640_n.jpg?oh=d2331995153de81bcaef045fdb41bb32&oe=59390D5E)
Buuuut it's time I start thinking about more armor. I've always known i need to make a front bumper, just havent gotten to it. Finished up the rear bumper last fall
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17155157_10107963877687093_5743761827521562024_n.jpg?oh=c0b91d5e3bb42eb6e4b258951a379d0c&oe=59398C90)
i also did this over the weekend
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17155599_10107963878635193_744569391982618807_n.jpg?oh=5e1168d27a41c171fc3d611df59c36fc&oe=5968CF72)
and added some pretty hefty rock sliders too, but i need more protection.
I know I've seen pictures of a 1st gen 4runner in the past where they had tubes frenched into their panels, so no dumb exo cage to snag on everything, but basically a slider at body-height.
Anyone ever seen that or something like that I can use for brainstorming?
This is still a street driven (currently a daily actually) truck so I can't go too crazy though.
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today i cleaned up some "new" headlights
gross yellow and peeling clearcoat/uv protectant stuff as bought
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17200941_10108003935071773_3190448487146225201_n.jpg?oh=bde4264e8ec3d9bb33e9f9151cc36ec7&oe=5972F70E)
sanded it flat
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17264868_10108003935106703_3851923973127056032_n.jpg?oh=bf00792e6d290c5d10a4a309d86642d0&oe=595D54E3)
all a good consistent grit
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17202891_10108003935116683_535002121555828380_n.jpg?oh=1f81b60db010ccda584b8e05f5f8de2e&oe=596B4A6F)
aaand now with clear
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17309126_10108003935121673_2326861030991832053_n.jpg?oh=9f70488242391aeb860c77d16f28faac&oe=5966E086)
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This seems to imply a sonoma/jimmy front end swap unless I'm missing something
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This seems to imply a sonoma/jimmy front end swap unless I'm missing something
Yup, less protrudey plastic grill under the headlights, no grill that needs to clip into a now-lightly tweaked core support, and a big wide opening in the middle to move the winch above the frame rails so i can get better approach angles.
I'm surprised every off-road s10 doesn't wear gmc headlights
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When i started down that thought train i ended up with 7" sealed beam buckets on the shelf. If youre going to have just headlights hanging off the front then they might as well be good ones.
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When i started down that thought train i ended up with 7" sealed beam buckets on the shelf. If youre going to have just headlights hanging off the front then they might as well be good ones.
wait are you saying you prefer the sealed beam over the composites?
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When i started down that thought train i ended up with 7" sealed beam buckets on the shelf. If youre going to have just headlights hanging off the front then they might as well be good ones.
wait are you saying you prefer the sealed beam over the composites?
Yes, you can get euro spec high output sealed beam housings that will outperform any stock s10 headlight.
And I meant round 7" housings from the junkyard. Once you delete the grill and have a flat core support you can hang pretty much anything off the front of it.
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are these the wrangler sized ones?
hmm.... i may need to consider this, although after rewiring the harness and running HIR bulbs i've been pretty happy with the chevy composite lights
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The euro spec housings are rather nice. The long bed has a set and they're the best headlights I've had aside from maybe the HIDs in the Cadillacs.
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(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/17311370_10108021607980123_5390831798611018373_o.jpg?oh=c0dd0a71af62233260db5dd944de12e4&oe=5929DFAA)
tossed them on for now while i prepare (wait for warm weather) to make a front bumper.
anyone know why they look like they have bad fitment compared to the hoodline?
I'm pretty sure they are in the slots in the core support correctly... (I'll check again later)
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Usually when they're crooked like that it's because the tabs on the housing are not fully seated in the core support. I had to use a pry bar to 'adjust' the slots in my core support to get mine back in after they were first removed.
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turns out there is enough "slop" in the assembly that after I confirmed the tabs were in the core support slots, I just twisted the lense and it changed the angles significantly.
Looks pretty level now.
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Are the adjusters stripped? Can't say I've ever laid eyes on GMC headlights, so not sure if they have similar adjustments as the S10, but I've stripped Isuzu and Audi adjusters enough to know that can make for similar outcomes.
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Are the adjusters stripped? Can't say I've ever laid eyes on GMC headlights, so not sure if they have similar adjustments as the S10, but I've stripped Isuzu and Audi adjusters enough to know that can make for similar outcomes.
nope, they are the same as the chevy ones, but the left/right adjuster is lower down and has a longer adjuster "knob-shaft".
I actually replaced the seized one on the new GMC ones from the blazer one.
I got them adjusted to exactly where the blazer's were aimed, and im very happy with the output. slightly different beam pattern from the chevy ones but equivalent quality.
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i moved the winch plate up and on top of the frame rails for better approach angle.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17353617_10108041086345323_6975744478201316812_n.jpg?oh=c4df704eeb280d12bfdf0a15f6bc5181&oe=596315E6)
I was able to move the PS cooler enough to clear the winch but unfortunately the stock hood latch has no chance at fitting.
I ordered hood pins.... Hope I never forget to put the pins in before driving :/
current setup sure looks good
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17352313_10108038555457243_4529811151141995942_n.jpg?oh=ec789616dcbbb531469f73e7eeecd094&oe=595F70AF)
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Looks good. I'll probably end up doing hood pins on mine too since I want to ditch the latch stuff when I put the intercooler on.
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What's wrong with the ratchet latch you've got on there now?
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not as blingy :)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-0/p280x280/17362572_10108048874512773_3408322837575979637_n.jpg?oh=42d5289066d749cffcef1384dc5dc9bf&oe=5956A5E6)
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What's wrong with the ratchet latch you've got on there now?
We learned in lemons racing that ratchet straps are far more tolerant of hood misalignment, impacts and damage than hood pins are.
Thought that was worth a mention with your take-no-prisoners offroading style lately.
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Thought that was worth a mention with your take-no-prisoners offroading style lately.
i really need to stop that.
it's not sustainable
progress
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17424922_10108053868489803_5495077433092177027_n.jpg?oh=fc5725f2eb349e2cc88918162afb6938&oe=596EF9EC)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17458392_10108053868494793_5968947853428690231_n.jpg?oh=4958d6c21cdba38f1d43f579ec113b98&oe=596E39CF)
next up is grill and skid plate.
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This is probably a stupid question for a truck getting HD bumpers and a winch but how much do you think the hood latch and bracket weighed?
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This is probably a stupid question for a truck getting HD bumpers and a winch but how much do you think the hood latch and bracket weighed?
I'll pick it up and guesstimate this weekend if i remember.
not all that much though. <5 lbs total probably. glass fenders will save you more weight than taking these off
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Def a badazz looking truck. Digging what you are doing with the front end.
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This is probably a stupid question for a truck getting HD bumpers and a winch but how much do you think the hood latch and bracket weighed?
I'll pick it up and guesstimate this weekend if i remember.
not all that much though. <5 lbs total probably. glass fenders will save you more weight than taking these off
I haven't been able to find glass fenders in stock dimensions - I don't want to go with the full pre-runner look. I think I'd also like to keep my inner fenders too, although I'm open to ditching them if the truck turns into a very race-focused vehicle.
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There are these:
http://www.andysautosport.com/products/andys_auto_sport__46800F.html
No idea on weight though and they have the vents behind the wheel, but doesn't look like there is much on the back side.
Found a few pictures on S10forum:
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/95-s10-show-truck-332505/index2.html#post5612462
I'm thinking about using some aluminum trailer fenders for inners on the Blazer. Hopefully I can find some wide enough without breaking the bank too bad. I don't have much, if anything, to mount to them, but keeping road debris outside the engine bay would be a plus.
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still no grill, but bumper is done
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/17760963_10108150841754603_7417523918228533163_o.jpg?oh=f307a7e45108d50a733d233d3558c9ed&oe=598625C0)
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Looks ready to pre-run haha
And that bumper looks professional. How did you get that nice bent bull bar?
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https://www.affordableoffroad.com/shop/main-and-side-prerunner-tubes-prerunrtubes/
their listed 15" height is optimistic though.
ended up around 13" after evening out the "legs" which were about 1.5-2" off.
kinda wish it was a taller hoop, but wasnt going to wait for a new one, i think it looks fine, just could've had more protection if it were a ouch taller
got it wired up today.
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/17807332_10108157447771093_6652946907951444680_o.jpg?oh=d9b042c58bf96a5709a2de3899cafde8&oe=598C6D7B)
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Nice.
I finally added some dcdc boost coverters to my headlights.
Running 1 160w unit per 55w rated low beam bulb with the expectation it will stretch their questionable made in china life expectancy.
Voltage is a steady 16v regardless of input, output is remarkably brighter. No regrets at 1 week post install.
2 for $40 shipped with a tracking number and crazy fast.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/152271068844
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Nice.
I finally added some dcdc boost coverters to my headlights.
Running 1 160w unit per 55w rated low beam bulb with the expectation it will stretch their questionable made in china life expectancy.
Voltage is a steady 16v regardless of input, output is remarkably brighter. No regrets at 1 week post install.
2 for $40 shipped with a tracking number and crazy fast.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/152271068844
Any chance you could do up a quick how-to on this? I know it's likely easy but I'm not good at things so...
The bumper and light setup looks badass. Who needs a grill anyway?
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interesting. how does the potting on the backside look? pretty waterproof-ey?
curious why you are running 2 when 1 should handle a pair of 55W headlights
i reread your post and understand for hopes of longevity
I assume it has 2 wires in, 2 wires out?
so it just goes inline on your headlight harness.
It's not very efficient at 85% so fatter wires should help
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Yes, 2in, 2out, so pretty easy to wire. I added mating headlight connectors to each so it just plugs inline at the bulb.
Other reasons to use 2 is because the silverado has separate fused circuits for each bulb, and so that I can fail one converter or one overdriven bulb and drive home with one light instead of diagnosing on the side of the road in the dark.
Potting looks OK when installed. Its been in rain a few times and no issues yet.
The factory harness is sized and fused for 10A to each bulb. With the higher voltage and ~85% efficiency that puts me at a 90W draw on each circuit. The nice part is unlike a relay kit you dont care what the input voltage to this box is, so long as you aren't popping fuses or melting wires.
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are silverado headlight housings glass or plastic?
the reflectors in the stock blazer fog lights disintegrated away when i upped the bulb wattage in there (was fine in winter, damage happened in august or so)
I'm curious to hear the long-term review on your setup
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Plastic.
Knowing that people out there run quad beam setups gives some confidence in not overheating the housings.
Also these are already sundamaged on the front optics. I'll polish them out, maybe add a UV film back on. Then its a real race to see what fails first
-(new) Bulbs from being run at the top of their voltage range
-Converters from being cheap
-Original headlight wiring from higher current
-Headlight housings from higher power
-Headlight housings from UV damage
Now taking bets. I'll post back when something breaks.
I guess I could ask a mod to split this off into its own thread too.
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good point. although i'm already running quad beam, HIRs so upping heat may not be a great idea.
i had good results polishing and then coating the smoothed out housings with a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and wood varnish.
we'll see how long this lasts too.
im gonna put my money on headlight bulbs burning out in 1.5 years
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14k miles on these rear EBC greenstuff pads... previous set was 7k miles on centric ceramics. Next up is supposedly lifetime warranty duralast pads. We'll see how these wear in Michigan mud!
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-0/p280x280/18156995_10108249467602613_3865299012389721791_n.jpg?oh=6e7e5e5dfdece234567a2fde45440fb0&oe=59924FB4)
of course pushing the piston back in on these calipers means they seize up.
I ordered replacement pistons and seals this time instead of a whole new caliper, we'll see how that works once i receive it.
also went through another timken front wheel bearing.
basically im averaging 1-2 years per timken bearing. ugh.
Got a new proforged idler arm too, this is a yearly replacement.
im highly considering swapping to a solid front axle soon after the v8 swap
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That's like $200-250/year on front end wearable parts? Seems like you could justify that axle swap on a dollar basis easily enough haha
PS Those rear calipers are always jerks. I keep putting off regreasing the long bed rears even though i know it's a time bomb if I don't.
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That's like $200-250/year on front end wearable parts? Seems like you could justify that axle swap on a dollar basis easily enough haha
PS Those rear calipers are always jerks. I keep putting off regreasing the long bed rears even though i know it's a time bomb if I don't.
yea.... it's more an effort issue...
but noone on this forum would understand the difficulty in maintaining motivation to finish a project right?
the pins were still sliding smoothly this time (i must be regreasing them plenty often) but the antiseize was starting to dry.
I purchased this in hopes of better lubrication for longer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018PSASU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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swapped in the new pistons, seals and dust boots.
kind of a pain in the ass, it might be worth just buying calipers next time, i'm not sure.
we'll see if this fixes it.
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well, sandblasted the frame over labor day weekend at silver lake sand dunes
https://www.facebook.com/greencactus3/videos/10108985911887363/
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/21248639_10108980068477603_4173028987915877106_o.jpg?oh=442b4a6d60272fa6943743312f0992e9&oe=5A1E95A2)
and now look what's happening
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/21551638_10109010666114693_3537594367522810349_o.jpg?oh=d260d85ca60c8f28bffea9317deadac1&oe=5A5B4BED)
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aand a good day of work later...
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/21457878_10109016499843853_409689420566218368_o.jpg?oh=6bfbc900a25e33e85abe49afe1c0afe5&oe=5A4DAACB)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/21462782_10109016493920723_5019253013580242491_n.jpg?oh=8b2630385bbbf7d274a5a86af312dfe4&oe=5A1D018A)
unfortunately modded diff to front diff clearance and pass side valve cover to HVAC box clearance didnt agree
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/21432682_10109016495183193_1985405884751065956_n.jpg?oh=d1e294492fdbe945762685f224e95065&oe=5A58C369)
so the oilpan had to get dropped, which required dropping the front diff, which required apparently all of the front end to be taken out. ugh
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/21457956_10109016496650253_1576441236143821490_o.jpg?oh=6bc52ceffbc57581ff1695100a274be6&oe=5A1A809F)
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Nice motor mounts.
Is that the stock 5speed behind it? What parts did you use to make that work?
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yup, stock nv3500
im only using 7 bellhousing bolts, but im assuming that's fine.
basically just using 4.8 clutch parts
Sachs (NFW1050) Flywheel
Luk Clutch 04-205 - Luk Clutch Kits
6x Chevrolet Performance 11569956 - Chevrolet Performance Flywheel Bolts
i should probably get the shifter back on the trans and confirm clutch disengagement though. probably should have done that when i had a friend over yesterday.
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well i notched the notch.
pretty complex shape with bends on bends on bends, so had to do it in several pieces.
I hope it clears!
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/21616206_10109021401565763_2523483983450902886_n.jpg?oh=be61ff4e2534c2883b95ec4eb9e97e34&oe=5A5566B8)
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/21688304_10109021402124643_5975957671580054843_o.jpg?oh=85e645df0a2160283ceda6475178a1b2&oe=5A5A7C61)
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If you get this done before me.... well it's my own fault and I will laugh.
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tacked together some mounts i had cnc plasma cut a year or so ago.
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-0/q81/p240x240/21731325_10109030209898793_7114806739988180344_n.jpg?oh=764df57238ad8f7d6a0e468086fd86f3&oe=5A4B986E)
amazingly they fit nicely! (Thanks Harley!)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/21743490_10109030210856873_1804453594214292088_o.jpg?oh=d7c3c5aab9349fed4798650f7a5457d0&oe=5A1314B7)
roughly mid-range of adjustments all around
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/21743623_10109030211515553_195436256597425723_o.jpg?oh=d257d8f473a706176bba930be6494413&oe=5A5E2686)
new notch clears with a finger gap all around!
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/21753082_10109030212204173_4579787803052886886_o.jpg?oh=c09b94acb5e59ee20e142112c0a54f09&oe=5A54B4E4)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/21751265_10109030212788003_1516355555753961745_n.jpg?oh=a1c3179e2186e705e77da1cbdee400fe&oe=5A15D357)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/21729001_10109030213172233_2032394626923873213_o.jpg?oh=ba142781277d50a51bf57e28a56e3c3e&oe=5A49F261)
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Looking good - it's going to be a beast with the power to push the extra weight you've added in offroad mods.
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Looking good - it's going to be a beast with the power to push the extra weight you've added in offroad mods.
with the aluminum block i should be taking weight off compared to the v6 so it'll be a significant change!
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It's always great when the CAD works out!
How is the clearance to the HVAC box now?
Losing enough weight to add it back in with a solid axle?
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it's almost as if it's a tool everyone uses to design a vehicle!
less than an 1/8" to the hvac box currently, but i have some room to move the engine/trans assembly forwards with the new pan notch and the hopefully arriving today trans mount bushing.
I can actually drop the whole engine lower by a good amount if i were willing to cut up the new engine mounts, but I don't think I really care about CG height on this truck too much.
There's no way I can drop enough weight to compensate for the weight I'll be adding with the solid axle. I'll most likely be tipping over 5000 lbs on a scale after that swap.....
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got the mounts painted pretty and mounted up, slid the entire powertrain package forwards by about 3/8" and decided i want to drop the whole engine a bit.
right now the corner of the valve cover is RIGHT at the height of the corner of the HVAC box which is quite inconvenient
dropping the engine by roughly 1/2" should help that clearance out while my 2nd pan notch should account for clearance to the diff.
so i'll be getting new mounts waterjet, but this will slow down progress by at least a week. ugh.
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Where are you having the waterjet work done? Cost?
If you're bored waiting for parts feel free to stop out and help with my swap. ;)
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Where are you having the waterjet work done? Cost?
If you're bored waiting for parts feel free to stop out and help with my swap. ;)
trying to get it done at work, cost TBD
ha, right. although we need to meet up at some point so i can have an intake again.
are you still climbing regularly?
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I thought that might be your answer.
Climbing every Wednesday still, but probably hitting the road in a few weeks. Job is done at the end of September. Could switch days without much issue, though if another works better for you.
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learned a couple things yesterday...
1. the "5.3" alternator i bought off CL last year is definitely not for a 5.3 possibly for an older SBC.
2. if you buy a used starter motor from the junkyard, make sure you don't just cut all the wires to it. loosen every nut first in case you break off the signal stud after you try to loosen the nut a year after you bought it...
3. the 4.3 alternator is the same as the 5.3 one? i unfortunately gave away both of my alternators from the s10 and blazer 4.3s in the past month. *sigh*
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today i learned:
1. there are a couple different kind of radiator e-fans on 99-04 intrepid/concordes the dimensions appear similar but some have integrated relays, some do not, and the non-integrated ones have a little less depth. fans also look more elegant. i pulled several different ones and picked the best looking one with a mopar sticker and part number.
Mopar T411AD7541 (4596411AD 83403 2121) from a 2002 v6 intrepid. this is the kind without the integrated relays, but i snagged the relay harness from the other style too just in case.
I'm curious which style everyone else is running
2. not a single dr37 alternator in the whole yard. found 1 dr44 but the bearings were shot. I did realize the harness connector is not the same between the dr37/44 so if i wanted to upgrade to the 44 later, it may require a little more homework.
I ended up picking up a s10 4.3 alternator for now. looked at probably 10 of them before picking the one with the least amount of bearing noise.
3. there were a whole 2 LS starter motors in the whole yard. one looked like the old style with the one bolt that is shorter. I didn't realize trucks ever got that style, i thought it was only the camaro/vettes
i opted to grab the other one from a 02 silverado which the sticker said had 265k miles on it. lets hope it isn't the original starter. is makes "loose parts" noises when i shake it which seems kind of odd, but i'm not sure if that indicates anything bad.
overall, spent 3 hours in this abnormal heat, spent $80 and got a bunch of parts including the previously misplaced water pump bolts.
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Tomorrow will you learn to ask me about spare parts on the shelf? haha
We have a spare alt, but it's squeaky. I do have 2 Intrepid fans sitting on the shelf that I decided not to use though. I don't think they have the integrated relays.
Sounds like a fun and successful day at the yard. Not sure what is up with the 90 degree temps lately.
I need to make a trip to the yard sometime this week myself.
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Tomorrow will you learn to ask me about spare parts on the shelf? haha
We have a spare alt, but it's squeaky. I do have 2 Intrepid fans sitting on the shelf that I decided not to use though. I don't think they have the integrated relays.
Sounds like a fun and successful day at the yard. Not sure what is up with the 90 degree temps lately.
I need to make a trip to the yard sometime this week myself.
dammit. you need to have an inventory list.
i might borrow that alternator for mockup.
with the 25% off deal on sundays at the pontiac yard it's hard to not buy things.
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For real. I keep discovering new things myself.
Alt is just sitting on the shelf.
Even without 25% off I have a hard time not buying anything.
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An inventory day sounds smart.
I saw an ad from US Auto in Sterling Heights recently bragging about their LS collection.
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=1993616710883324&id=1384000358511632
"Your LS Engine headquarters! We've put out 4, 6.0 engines this week!! Not to
Mention all the 4.8 and 5.3 engines we put out! $175 for a bare engine, or $250 with accessories.
GM Trucks - Row 22 STACKED!!
Set on 9-22-17
http://www.usautosterlingheights.com/pricelist.html"
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That's the usual yard I go to. It's directly on the way from Warren to Romeo, so easy for me. It's been rare I haven't been able to find a 5.3/6.0 part I need.
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good to know, unfortunately a whole lot more out of the way for me than the pontiac one which in the past was pretty stocked.
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got new engine mounts waterjet, these will place the engine 1/2" lower than the first set
welded and painted
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/21992761_10109097604354763_4745325667973934631_o.jpg?oh=df5cfb4ec4d50263b08255117a261024&oe=5A80F2EB)
comparing to V1
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22007909_10109097604743983_360274816989618517_n.jpg?oh=c777500e24d7c5b7e76b9ab8c8c897c7&oe=5A3F6466)
engine placed in "final" position
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/21768314_10109097605063343_3389188008526228370_n.jpg?oh=d1bdf6e933be21896f9a5eff156c9d87&oe=5A41DF3E)
still have adjustment capability forwards if i were to modify the trans xmember
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22008215_10109097605452563_6870241516670766714_n.jpg?oh=dabbfe7f6468d3259144af9f2db1932e&oe=5A53D42D)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/21768155_10109097606470523_4988455866846537824_n.jpg?oh=fa5cf7e1b0f08b158c7a215f39f77bf7&oe=5A4D0587)
now i have "clearance" to the HVAC box
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/21768201_10109097606809843_3472609747204130958_n.jpg?oh=7d84e163b63c5ce5f96aff33f86caa7d&oe=5A517F2F)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22089346_10109097607483493_6465063611127935908_n.jpg?oh=14d126ebd52f62c710a2c42cb94bbb8c&oe=5A51A607)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22050357_10109097607708043_4933329336828017181_n.jpg?oh=9d18f400e4c2e53d228b9244760f2370&oe=5A4D2ED7)
and the oilpan notch is working out well
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22007396_10109097608062333_5956648137549236042_n.jpg?oh=5c93ac61e9d63137fc8e4441c7165aff&oe=5A869399)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22089592_10109097608381693_6399342551891267842_n.jpg?oh=dcad3f6303dd0b371fd3ccb0f933f404&oe=5A476B1E)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22046799_10109097608686083_7405750695222181482_n.jpg?oh=27b41fdbe773150fe01d568d52a874fb&oe=5A41E412)
closest thing down here is oil filter to diff bolts as seen here, but at least the oil filter is "squishable" without too much issue
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22046179_10109097608985483_8039596671605068317_n.jpg?oh=9c952560d242ada4a087597e3e1d2d06&oe=5A4C89AD)
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Looks great!
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i started on a thing. lets hope this works
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22090170_10109111145867463_4265145753146171528_n.jpg?oh=b5007613b83620a932bd77cbb580e756&oe=5A52954F)
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used Harley's p/ns he posted in a different thread and got this elegant setup for the gauge oil pressure sensor
https://www.amazon.com/Pressure-Relocation-Adapter-M16-1-5-Sending/dp/B00NY4VJL8
and the sensor itself
19244505
ACDelco D1818A GM Original Equipment Engine Oil Pressure Sensor
with the M16 thread.
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-0/p480x480/22096042_10109115127927383_5919630106085419705_o.jpg?oh=d4258225ca43a92239de2cfbe3b35265&oe=5A4DB68E)
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Lowering the alternator? Or turning it into an adjustable tensioner?
Just realized I have no idea what you're doing for exhaust headers/manifolds.
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changing the eye to eye distance on the vette alt bracket so i can mount a higher amperage truck alternator.
the pulley offset is the same on all the alternators I've looked at, and the truck alternator spacing seems to be the most common and readily available at all parts stores so on the road replacements will be much easier than trying to track down a vette alternator in the middle of nowhere.
i haven't started on thinking about exhaust yet but i'm going to start with the cast f-body manifolds i got from you a long time ago. I haven't pulled them down from the attic but i think you bored them out to 2.5" tube for me.
and then the rest of the exhaust will be piecing together various bends and straights, into most likely just a single 3" like i always do because it's light and easy, plus i have several mufflers laying around to try to recycle.
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i started on a thing. lets hope this works
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22090170_10109111145867463_4265145753146171528_n.jpg?oh=b5007613b83620a932bd77cbb580e756&oe=5A52954F)
2010 looked like a good year.
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I do vaguely recall at least talking about boring those out for you, but I think I did. If not there's a boring head out at the shop haha I'm curious how those manifolds will fit on a 4x4/ZR2.
I agree on the year 2010.
So doing Vette offset accessories on this one? Trying to keep the radiator in the stock position and still have room to work?
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yup. I'm pretty sure they are bored already. Just not sure on what size tube will fit nicely.
I'm hoping those manifolds work out ok! The backup plan is a full custom header but i'd love to avoid the time required for making that.
I also have some truck manifolds laying around but i think those are known to not fit at all.
yea, '10 was a good year
yup, that's the plan! keeping AC so retaining the stock radiator location simplifies the front end work.
I guess it hasn't been pictured yet but i already have the low profile LS2 water pump bolted up.
as seen in this handy google image search picture, the LS2 pump significantly increases e-fan clearance.
(LS1 pump is shared between the vette and f-body and allows for belt wrap in both positions)
the dual intrepid fan should also help with clearance as opposed to a single fan where the fan motor lines up with the denter of the pulleys
(http://www.katechengines.com/street_performance/images/IMG_6963.JPG)
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You'll be happy with that water neck position too.
I would have bored to 2.5" tube just like I did for mine.
Truck manifolds might work with a similar treatment as we're giving the 4th gen Camaro manifolds, but on the driver side I'm pretty sure steering would be boned.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3269/4644200612_559e755f18_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/85oK3m)
Passenger side doesn't look all that bad in my pictures.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4007/4644191044_5496a5bd6a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/85oGco)
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So i didn't know until today that the envoy manifolds are not the same as the truck ones.
here is the pass side compared to a 02ish camaro one
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22196464_10109125491753193_5331743091894191793_n.jpg?oh=9daa5d3b9904f3d5c4469cca6a19e14f&oe=5A3AD58A)
camaro one mocked up
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22221731_10109125490800103_3517690891254094903_n.jpg?oh=134aad323fc5e6d313c11f3af96585bd&oe=5A4039C2)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22141296_10109125490869963_7951452529422239139_n.jpg?oh=9b3007bddb00a81df74c836ddf5b4404&oe=5A7C47B0)
Envoy one
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22089911_10109125491084533_7263422711734639109_n.jpg?oh=12698a7eb86a213d4262a2dca0b62f25&oe=5A42814C)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22195923_10109125491408883_9049459461009918946_n.jpg?oh=bd112ddceb062563b8a4220df966a422&oe=5A7BF2D3)
for the camaro ones being the "typical" s10 swap (2wd), i am not particularly impressed.
I'd need a pretty sharp turn back to run the camaro ones, plus i'll need to cover up all the EGR ports.
the Envoy one fit pretty nicely and I think I may even be able to run the 3 bolt flange, which would make installation a tad easier.
Anyone know if anyone aftermarket makes the flange/flared tube section?
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of course, while i was mocking up, I realized I had forgotten to remove several broken exhaust bolts from the engine before dropping it in.
While I hated myself for being dumb, (never rely on mental notes on a project you have been procrastinating from doing for over a year!) having a welder really makes bolt extraction super easy.
it would have been a whole lot easier on an engine stand though.
access was mediocre with the fender gap liner out.
the last 5.3 I swapped I used a drill and tap and was never super happy with the end result.
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22228275_10109125487317083_9155053999542334720_n.jpg?oh=3c7bec6dd9c103c81570e64d49fff804&oe=5A4EAAEB)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22196105_10109125487631453_110834603261896877_n.jpg?oh=1541fd1d07a7d38357b0da146aa72cc8&oe=5A82FC10)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22279579_10109125487067583_400756331240210980_n.jpg?oh=8f08e453463f609ad3df251cf9dd0bb1&oe=5A83C227)
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modified vette alternator bracket seems to work well
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22181372_10109130002468683_49291821672748007_o.jpg?oh=2b6aa32a03e916b99fffa3536362c760&oe=5A78E24E)
next step is to try to weld the 4.3 AC compressor bracket to this without running out of room
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I didn't feel like I had to cut in that much with the 98-99 stainless manifolds. Not sure if they changed the shape at all with the cast iron 00+ versions.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7261/7641369910_53e55415cf_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/cDf245)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7115/7505530322_e00ffded6a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/creNFd)
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8286/7505531972_1c6c70d1e6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/crePaE)
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tossed the driver side envoy manifold on for shits and giggles and wow, that actually looks pretty nice!
no gasket on there now so that'll cause a little issue, but i can actually install the steering shaft with the heat shield on.
exit is pretty ideal too.
since i already have the f-body ones being shipped to me, I'm going to see if those do better, but I have a feeling the envoy one is the way to go (at least for the drivers side)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22218287_10109134212456833_6271093990919850683_o.jpg?oh=0b9080d4d6cd7b4f4baf1833613c4df0&oe=5A77635E)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22196139_10109134212841063_8655847804294461812_n.jpg?oh=088451388e9ee6c1f3dce0de44d04cdf&oe=5A3A2565)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22195957_10109134212960823_7215417583319152074_n.jpg?oh=347eb34b9ef2abfd3e800bc41743f95a&oe=5A7B02CD)
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i mocked up the 98-99 stamped SS camaro manifolds.
the pass side is fine, it works, but the drivers side points pretty much straight at the front diff, plus it comes out wider so the steering shaft has no chance at fitting.
no idea why this is the 'common' setup for s10s.
Envoy manifolds it is! If i'm really lucky i can find a bolt-in y-pipe too, and get to retain the factory 3 bolt flanges.
fingers crossed.
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It worked for one guy, so no one else explored the other options? That and not being cast does have an advantage for amateur welders. I'm happy with mine, but the steering is definitely a very tight point.
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got lucky and somehow the stock coils and brackets bolted up with just a fastener change on the last bolt/stud. used a regular bolt and it looks like it'll work fine
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22550102_10109193719000243_2310442650697320251_o.jpg?oh=d50a611eec9998d5eecb89a45c6c3e2d&oe=5A76F0A4)
new steering shaft made from just regular 1"DD technically clears the heat shield. with flex im sure there'll be some rub, but the heat shield should self clearance itself.
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22552344_10109193719239763_8246769559291256068_n.jpg?oh=6845044067ddd9221e209cd721d87d20&oe=5A7A73E8)
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Making progress, 3 bolt flange fasteners are fully accessible. These envoy manifolds really are the way to go!
Also as assumed, truck 3 bolt flanges are the same as the envoy ones. went to the local junkyard and got both flanges for $7
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22552555_10109212142344713_3784918169078472553_n.jpg?oh=9eb934ffdb4443a2d0d01a383f8e668b&oe=5A840AB6)
not sure where is the best location to cross over from the left to the right side... maybe right before the trans xmember, but i feel I'm going to lose a touch of ground clearance there even with just 2.5" tube. I'll want to build a skidplate to not rip the exhaust off with that method.
Feel free to post up ideas.
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i decided hugging the back of the oilpan is the safest, as the LCA mount area hangs basically as low as this exhaust ended up being.
running the cross over anywhere further back would have similar ground clearance "issues" but less peripheral component protection.
not sure if there's a pretty way to oval the pipe... press and patience? but if i could nicely crush the low points about 1/2" I would be very happy.
It's just a touch higher than the front skid plate now, which isn't ideal, as I don't currently have a skid plate under the trans.
I guess maybe this just means i need to run a full flat undertray?
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22713386_10109225486293333_4039341213181946687_o.jpg?oh=d88cc837788216d7b7d504db8eb66493&oe=5A68A4E9)
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not having enough hands and my harbor freight scissor trans jack being loaned out to a friend who's been collecting dust on it for months means ratchet straps and sticks on floor jacks is all i have for fixturing...
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22851921_10109242806288923_1824251266625040943_n.jpg?oh=92db6369e0f3071ea6144a02606a9ee9&oe=5A764F06)
I've made several merge pipes in my life but i think I've never enjoyed any of them.
Is there a secret on how to do them with more fun?
This one was particularly annoying because of space constraints and the 2 "ins" entering off plane from each other.
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22829465_10109242806733033_7372753051013357425_o.jpg?oh=1e3f85eb7b8d09f01fbb0d772809fe98&oe=5AA7CFA8)
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Depending on what you want, 2 mufflers is a good choice. Mine seems to be rather gnarly now that I have it running, but I'm also not running a tail pipe yet.
Not sure what to say about the merges. I used the DIY merge collector idea I found at Honda-Tech for mine and didn't feel too frustrated making it.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/welding-fabrication-53/merge-collector-fabrication-101-a-2787713/
Of course I wasn't splitting again either and just ran the 1 muffler
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i had 2 from the vette so i figured why not recycle both?
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22853126_10109229764888993_8306719005242079683_n.jpg?oh=1dd55a546c732b42ad86ced3fbf82dbe&oe=5A721A1E)
they were fairly quiet on the vette but that was with cats and a full length pipe so I'm not sure how this will be, I'm hoping to get it pretty quiet with a nice tone.
I'll still have room in the "stock" muffler location but it'll have to be a flat horizontal muffler if i want to place it there, which means it'll most likely have to be a 2in,2out muffler
I guess I have the option of crossing under the rear driveshaft for more room but im not sure I want to add THAT much weight in just exhaust.
plus no stock exhaust hangar options on that side.
I'll probably start it up with just these 2 mufflers and add on more later if i decide it's too loud.
I'll be running vband clamps right after the mufflers so swapping out should be super easy. (have to drop the trans xmember to get this mid pipe section in or out currently)
symmetric merges are more fun, but weird ones like this based on packaging constraints cause lots of headache.
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If there's 2 definitely recycle them. Also looks like you're recycling most of the rest of the exhaust too.
I think I forced mine to be symmetric. I built the merge first onto the long straight pipe, but had the joint at the V Band, so I could rotate it. I also had 2 or 3 other bend/straight combos that I was rotating and adjusting at the same time to make it work as I passed under the driveshaft. Definitely could be a challenge without all the fixtures I built on the frame table.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8431/7505517126_4f37ed5ebf_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/creJKG)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7257/7641358910_42104c02ba_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/cDeXMq)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7261/7641369910_53e55415cf_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/cDf245)
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yea, i briefly considered welding some bolt-on fixture tabs to the frame rails but decided it wasn't worth it.
a frame table sure makes things a whole lot nicer to do.
Oh and having the frame off is nice too.
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was really trying to avoid cutting up the trans xmember but wasn't happy with the clearance.
This wouldn't have been a problem if I went with the single 3" exhaust like i originally planned instead of this dual 2.5"
oh well, I hope it sounds good!
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/23270161_10109275326223713_2532328425943856622_o.jpg?oh=6ce2a7979b66a06ca1f026f19ef66c89&oe=5A620559)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/23213269_10109275326533093_1085458573736837236_o.jpg?oh=368a88bc6dd13325418fb8005e770392&oe=5AA705A4)
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Well i finally completed the midpipe, progress is slow with long hours at work and no sunlight after work. oh and it's cold out.
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/23509046_10109307819851223_5534928133687888970_o.jpg?oh=5a08af71721ff2c6a53e150ebe5ac4b5&oe=5A9F2D66)
waiting for the rain to stop so i can paint it and bolt it up for hopefully the final time!
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Harley says he just lost the first light. Hes holding out on telling me which part failed.
Plastic.
Knowing that people out there run quad beam setups gives some confidence in not overheating the housings.
Also these are already sundamaged on the front optics. I'll polish them out, maybe add a UV film back on. Then its a real race to see what fails first
-(new) Bulbs from being run at the top of their voltage range
-Converters from being cheap
-Original headlight wiring from higher current
-Headlight housings from higher power
-Headlight housings from UV damage
Now taking bets. I'll post back when something breaks.
I guess I could ask a mod to split this off into its own thread too.
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Harley says he just lost the first light. Hes holding out on telling me which part failed.
Plastic.
Knowing that people out there run quad beam setups gives some confidence in not overheating the housings.
Also these are already sundamaged on the front optics. I'll polish them out, maybe add a UV film back on. Then its a real race to see what fails first
-(new) Bulbs from being run at the top of their voltage range
-Converters from being cheap
-Original headlight wiring from higher current
-Headlight housings from higher power
-Headlight housings from UV damage
Now taking bets. I'll post back when something breaks.
I guess I could ask a mod to split this off into its own thread too.
All signs point to failed filaments.
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Haven't worked on this since last year, but hopefully building up motivation on this as I start up on it again.
Today I welded together the upper half of the stock accessory bracket (to use the stock AC compressor and lines) on top of the vette alternator bracket.
i waterjet some plates with some tabs and slots to make a quick fixture so alignment and spacing is correct.
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36907297_10110330761627703_2028681691496710144_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=0a9b9af36345f9d5055d9d8155526e22&oe=5BE3CB8C)
this is where the compressor ends up. (note: alternator not fully bolted in because i had a few clearance issues at that point)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36957620_10110330766103733_7157996691696648192_o.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=53338ccac845a38ef18dc21da31b4644&oe=5BEAEBE9)
I apparently didn't account for the stock fuel rail though.
As you can see the bracket assembly won't fully bolt to the head with the fuel rail still there
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36929113_10110330766852233_7336212283720204288_o.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=9947c8fe29a373494a0145d4ec9fcea7&oe=5BE19B5F)
I'm sure there's a fairly simple aftermarket rail fix, but that requires some digging on google.
Anyone know off the top of their head which aftermarket rail might solve the clearance issue I'm having?
Another solution could be running the car intake IF that lowers the fuel rail height. anyone know off the top of their head if the fuel rail height is different between a truck and car intake?
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google shows that maybe switching to a car intake wouldn't be super helpful
(http://i.imgur.com/boIkZNX.jpg)
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Doh!
And I'm assuming it is completely welded up now too? So suggesting a rotation of the A/C compressor isn't super helpful?
The Gen 4 engines use aluminum fuel rails. That would be easier to modify/shorten for you.
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2415qc1.jpg)
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oh nice, good to know.
I haven't seen any gen4 motors show up at the u-pull yet.
i wonder what the going rate for them online is
yea, i knew the rail issue before i fully welded but rotation wouldn't work very happily with the stock lines which is what i wanted to use so i fully welded it up anyways.
i figured the rail isn't too difficult of an issue to solve either with aftermarket or the mentioned gen4 ones.
I'd much prefer an OEM part to mod than ebay china parts
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Looks like the back of that bracket could get thinner without risking much. How much relative motion should be expected between the two items? How little clearance can you tolerate? How many bolts do you really need to keep your compressor in place?
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im okay with 1/8" of clearance, i havent measured to know for sure but I don't think i can shave enough to clear without fully removing the bolt.
I'm not sure if I'm comfortable removing a m10 bolt. this setup has been around long enough that a bolt would have been cost-cut out if it weren't necessary.
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day 2 of working on the blazer again.
I spent $160 on summit and am about to pull the trigger on amazon for some more things
This isn't the low budget 5.3 swap of 8 years ago...
Dug through Harley's build thread and ended up with radiator hoses with part numbers (dayco) 71983 and 71751 (both which were in my amazon shopping cart) so those will be here later this week to try out.
curiously my amazon shopping cart also had part number (dayco) 71372 but i don't know why... so i didn't order that one.
as for heater hoses, per page 214 that Harley pointed out here
https://assets.gates.com/content/dam/gates/home/resources/resource-library/catalogs/gates-molded-coolant-hose-id-guide_web.pdf
and shopping for best price per length,
5/8" to 5/8" 90 Gates28472
3/4" to 3/4" 90 Gates28480
are what I'm ordering for now. per this diagram I might switch out the 3/4" line to go through the surge tank later but for $15 i might as well pick it up
(https://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/images/LS/LS%20cooling%20system%20-%20numbered.jpg)
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good news! ls1 intake with the stock rail flipped around solves the clearance issue.
Bad news: I needed to make a summit order for a return style vacuum referenced fuel pressure regulator, injector spacers (to keep my flex fuel truck injectors), and intake manifold bolts because this intake didn't come with them for some reason.
lucky for me i had a set of brand new intake gaskets on hand to swap out these tired old ones (yay parts hoarding) so tomorrow when that summit order arrives i can snug it down.
Oh also my 4 way truck steam vent doesn't fit under the ls1 intake so im going back to the front only setup.... except i lost the rear block offs so i ordered a pair of those too
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/37014555_10110334726237593_7258858234797096960_o.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=b27806a7842823c4235e13888ce39d7a&oe=5BA58B99)
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36990044_10110334726626813_8008671890165989376_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=afe070c2d656919ce730d09eb3f4b1d6&oe=5BD5AE46)
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That's awesome that there's an off the shelf solution. Great work! Bummer that the LS1 intake loses a bit of power, but that means they can be had for cheap.
I think the stock AC hoses could tolerate some angle. Moot point now, but for any future endeavors worth considering.
You're not wasting money on those angle hoses. They're the best deal that can be had on high quality straight hose too, so even if you cut off the right angle and use it for something straight it's a win.
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successfully bolted up the ls1 intake with truck throttle body, truck flex fuel injectors, ls1 fuel rails, summitracing injector spacers and 1/4" spacers to shim up the rail off amazon.
note to others: when an aftermarket product is listed for exactly your application, sometimes it does not fit correctly :/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ICB-551371
coil bracket unfortunately needed some modification but at least i fully expected that.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/37244597_10110357912996143_7713012526262255616_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=18525f3e93c0c99ea8274d9254720b1c&oe=5BD308EC)
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/37276184_10110357912157823_9120291739419017216_o.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=fefca3a66d1ea8555b7dd6ac18eb255e&oe=5BE87D06)
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got lucky and found the c5 corvette PS pressure line works for this corvette pump to blazer steering box.
bend is a little tighter than I'd prefer but it should work fine.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/37350863_10110368979099583_4827837123841228800_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=cc6841a80e0382e5cb101db656517266&oe=5BD7E767)
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made some little brackets to mount the intrepid fan which is a PERFECT core size fit on the stock rad
these are the things that make a swap take forever
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/39861877_10110496347437413_3546284441095634944_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=1c0e164857473906ec259ba8d77aa0e1&oe=5C0CD916)
and then dropped it in the car.
oops.
this is running the ls2 water pump
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/39755128_10110496540824863_6997793638461734912_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=c90bc936ccf8933986de57cc777f0591&oe=5C3B1E5D)
anyone have a later LS3 water pump they can measure for me?
p/n19180610 according to my googles
(https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-0/p75x225/39745126_10110496790155203_1238992808132476928_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=2d227e4267bf75ac8ecac81fe2f42aae&oe=5C0805E7)
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looks like the ls3 pump outlet would crash into the other fan :/
so im making pies instead
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/39970195_10110504667813313_6747495747748364288_o.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=3bd38a821ce6a9e639786f1a4ebe13e1&oe=5BFEF4FF)
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Hmmm pie
Now I'm wondering if the Grand Am or Cavalier rad/fan setup will fit in the factory position. Those Intrepid fans really aren't that deep.
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Because im terrible at learning from other people's mistakes, I tried putting regular truck plug wires i had purchased a year ago on and it severely interfered with the steering shaft.
Tried the junk wires from the envoy (promptly tore a wire in half) and it works great :/
looking back at this post http://www.pro-tourings10.com/index.php?topic=87.msg14589#msg14589
looks like Harley already solved the problem i just ignored it previously.
so new tbss wires are on order.
welded up a bunch of aluminum pies to get to here
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/41360619_10110557418006503_6893908176391897088_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=a8e4112714f9033ecac899ea548012ca&oe=5C2E6E63)
i plugged one end and filled it with water to see if it will leak down at all overnight before i weld it onto the water pump itself.
i posted this pic on FB and a friend mentioned an escalade hose might have worked.
too late now but maybe i should have tried that first. oh well.
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/41372516_10110557511883373_8106709118607163392_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=7a9d800e75bb8a1ec703c0227ccae721&oe=5C30F1A5)
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I just used the one Trailblazer wire on the rearmost cylinder. All the other cylinders are the original truck wires that came with the engine. Not a matching set, but less parts to buy?
That Escalade hose looks like all the GMT800s I've come across. Not sure how easy that hose would have been to adapt to the forward facing pump outlet. All the trucks have the outlet on top of the waterpump, so you'd still have to re-angle your outlet somehow with the Escalade option too.
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luckily i can probably just use these straight ones on the vette so no big loss to buy a new set of tbss ones
no big deal on the upper hose now, i figured i'd need to cut and splice anyways
looks like it's going to work
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/41316547_10110560782454123_5312406930587648000_o.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=56b8e7716b8d816c01b7ed794c6eef17&oe=5C3B9D2E)
little detail of sucking the steam line into the pump outlet. I really would prefer to route that to the low pressure side end tank of the rad but plastic end tanks means tough to mod.
i slashcut the little tube going into the pipe so hopefully i get a little venturi effect to suck the bubbles out.
packaging concerns under the hood leads to me using an "old school" overflow bottle rather than a preferred surge tank :(
unfortunately it turns out that the ls2 water pump has a bigger inlet at the t-stat compared to the truck pumps.
it actually matches the rad outlet size..... which conveniently the stock blazer hose worked well for with some cutting.
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/41375469_10110560782848333_5248962975066226688_o.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=babf762e29ced363143bd389d17d1900&oe=5C3676B3)
unfortunately i have an idler pulley that is too big (3" diameter) to fit correctly.
Anyone know of any smaller diameter smooth pulleys that don't cost over $100 for some reason?
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slight annoyances of long-term projects
pic stolen from ls1tech
(https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/conversions-hybrids/676385d1501791986-s10-xtreme-l33-swap-b5a19ed0-b1d8-41a1-99c8-1b121a173b59-8536-0000088529982f1b_zps4943cdd5.jpg)
Truck intake bracket on left, F-Body bracket on right.
somehow i've misplaced both the truck throttle cable bracket AND the s10 throttle cable bracket, both which i could have sworn i pulled off for safekeeping at some point, but a year into this swap, I've lost them both :/
I guess I need to make another junkyard trip just for the little bracket so the s10 throttle cable can fit.
Also the brake booster vacuum port on the intake is blocked by my fuel lines. time to find a different vacuum source
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Also the brake booster vacuum port on the intake is blocked by my fuel lines. time to find a different vacuum source
Really? Is that because of the car style intake? They do make a factory plug to block off that port if it is the same style as the truck intake.
I dug out an extra S10 throttle cable bracket if you want it. May have even came off your long bed engine haha
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Really? Is that because of the car style intake? They do make a factory plug to block off that port if it is the same style as the truck intake.
I dug out an extra S10 throttle cable bracket if you want it. May have even came off your long bed engine haha
i took a picture but it's too dark you can't see anything.
the truck intake uses a standard 1/4 or 3/8" push to connect but the camaro intake (not sure if all cars do) use just a plastic nipple
(https://zcardepot.com/pub/media/catalog/product/cache//500x500/beff4985b56e3afdbeabfc89641a4582/8/0/800-840_ls1_intake_vacuum_plug_.jpg)
Thanks, let me know if you're in the area this week, otherwise i can just head to the yard down the road. it's a lot closer for me to head there than to your place
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Thanks, let me know if you're in the area this week, otherwise i can just head to the yard down the road. it's a lot closer for me to head there than to your place
I'll be in Lake Orion at least one night this week and definitely going climbing Wednesday night.
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I can't make climbing on wed but i should be there tue & thurs. (also i signed up for the 6 hour comp, you should too!)
let me know when you're heading to lake orion, maybe there'll be a convenient pass off time.
did a little more digging on smaller pulleys and found this 60mm OD pulley
http://www.daycoproducts.com/part?part_type%3D60%26pulley_type%3DSerpentine%26pulley_diameter_mm%3D60.0000%26grooves%3D0%26flat%3DY%26part_number%3D89582
unfortunately not readily available for cheap on amazon so I have it ordered off pepboy's website.
hopefully it arrives in a weekish. (backordered on summitracing)
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Maybe I'll switch to Thursday this week. Sounds like I need to stay off the Bouldering wall as a hip issue that I thought was a strain and the doctor initially thought was a cartilage tear, is apparently a stress fracture, so I definitely need a partner for top ropes.
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ugh, i can't find the MAF either :/
where did i store all these little things!?
yea come out on thurs, im trying to stay off the bouldering wall to stop aggravating a wrist issue too
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Look for the shelf labeled missing parts? I just put a MAF back on the 5.3 shelf yesterday. I can bring that along too.
What time on Thursday?
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Look for the shelf labeled missing parts? I just put a MAF back on the 5.3 shelf yesterday. I can bring that along too.
What time on Thursday?
Yes please! I'm sure it'll show up at some point but who knows when that'll be.
6:30-7 is when i try to get there
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new little pulley looks good, hopefully it'll work.
measured out ~104" with a string for the accessory belt, came across this nice site.
http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-catalog-1?part_type=20&length_search=104&num_ribs=6
so i have a 103.27" and a 103.75" belt on their way, hopefully i don't need a second round.
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well i ended up buying 10 belts, returning 9 of them so far, ordering one more belt. And it'll be good with one or the other remaining belt.
it'll either be the 107.5" belt i have now, or the 107" belt on its way.
the 106.5" belt was too tight to install.
whew.
i did get the throttle cable bracket done. Thanks Harley for supplying parts!
(https://scontent.fdet1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/42889910_10110650880551813_4315190802348244992_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&oh=526904062b5202b4eadc5d15adcb0482&oe=5C1B39BD)
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That's no small amount of belts and there is not much left of that bracket haha
Did you just keep going to a larger belt until it started fitting?
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i went up all the way to 110" in ~1" increments, and then now i'm 'filling in' the gap where i think is ideal.
haha yea, the bent flange went the wrong way on the stock bracket too so i had to "flip" the flange.
took a lot more effort to make it look smooth and all the welded together bends tangential because having it end up in steps looked terrible
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I could have sworn I went through this before but after seeing a post on a FB group about needing an extended pilot bearing for mating the blazer nv3500 to an LS motor I'm second guessing what I've done.
https://www.tickperformance.com/gm-extended-pilot-bushing-swap-applications/?fbclid=IwAR0bqW7KcheS4s3Kky7qIUYBdbqqh3LhTUp2KK9DdnNPzRT5-3s7q9YXzWI
Does anyone remember if this was looked into in the past?
Specs:
04 blazer NV3500
Sachs NFW1050 flywheel
Luk 04-205 clutch kit (applicable for 01-07+ 4.8, 5spd silverado)
I currently have the pilot bearing that came with the clutch kit ball bearing style.
should i be dropping the trans again to measure input shaft engagement?
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I don't remember looking into this before.
Is there a difference between the SBC style and LSx style NV3500?
We know there is on the 4L60e side of things. You ran a spacer for that in your long bed from what I remember.
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yea the big difference in the gen1 engine vs the gen3+ engines is the crank face is ~.4" forwards (or shorter) on the gen3+ engines, relative to the
So the 4l60e was an easy fix with the .4" hughes spacer to push the snout of the torque converter backwards, along with using a dished flexplate
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-hp3795
the later gen 1 transmissions are a touch confusing because gm was using them on the gen3 4.8 v8s in the silverados also.
I have a new theory that the roughly 99-05ish nv3500s might have had longer input shafts than the older ones but i can't find anything to back up that claim.
LS motors also have 2 locations where a pilot bearing can sit.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1166414-pilot-bearings-big-vs-small.html
I am using the "big bearing" which is also what i used between the 5.3-t56 in the rx7.
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I have '03 NV3500 in the barn - want me to measure the shaft?
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I have '03 NV3500 in the barn - want me to measure the shaft?
ooh yes please! end of input shaft to bellhousing face please!
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Way to be Rentedmule!
Maybe I should measure my '00 to compare, but it's still bolted up to the 4.3 from when I pulled them out of the Blazer haha
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Been crazy busy but will get that measurement ASAP
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no rush at all!
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Sorry for taking so long, seems like I haven't had a free minute in a month:
Hard to take pics and measure at the same time so angles are bad - the tip of the input shaft protrudes 6 mm beyond the face of the bellhousing.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4847/32455001838_e4966d15b7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RrWnkd)trans 2 (https://flic.kr/p/RrWnkd) by Rented Mule (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152606866@N06/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4848/46276592932_7ded0bf782_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dviCPW)trans 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2dviCPW) by Rented Mule (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152606866@N06/), on Flickr
From front of TO bearing to face of bellhousing:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4912/46276592682_9e0166f6ed_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dviCKC)trans 3 (https://flic.kr/p/2dviCKC) by Rented Mule (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152606866@N06/), on Flickr
Let me know if you need something else