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Member Forums => Members S10\Blazer Projects => Topic started by: Harley on August 25, 2009, 12:32:08 PM
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This was in General Suspension on the old board, but it's turning more into a full vehicle project.
After I finish parting out my race truck and help my friend clear some space in and around his pole barn we're going into overdrive on the Blazer powertrain and chassis. I've got a 2003 frame with suspension sitting out at his place now. Plan is to build a template for the body off of it and then cut it in half. Will also be dropping in a 5.3 and a T56 at the same time. Once that is all together I'll swap the Blazer body over, redo electrical, get it running and then do some body work that I've been putting off for awhile. May end up doing a full respray. No deadline yet. I'll keep the Blazer on the road until I start the body swap.
Here are some pictures of what I am starting with.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3648/3476977179_9b54edb935_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3578/3476980789_3f1ba48400_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3625/3476982599_07a70b11e9_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3015/3073785752_f90e7ff7b2_b.jpg)
Engine bay is quite a bit cleaner currently, but this is the newest picture I have.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2069/2794541929_a429f97ae9_b.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v401/blizazer/th_utf-8BSU1HMDAxMTEuanBn.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v401/blizazer/?action=view¤t=utf-8BSU1HMDAxMTEuanBn.jpg)
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I figured it would be better if I split this discussion out.
Background: I'm picking up a bare frame in the near future since my front clip has some collision damage. Before swapping the body on I would like to get it setup with at least the notch and a well engineered fuel cell mounting solution. Preferably I will set my suspension and steering up for the future too, but that is budget limited.
cage. must. have. full 8+ pt cage. MUST!
which will definitly slow down your 'body swap' lol
have you decided on ride height for it eventually?
i think that will determine whether or not you wanna bother with custom steering.
as for suspension... just do it now lol
i can help out with some machining if need be over the summer. bushings, etc.
(no job) lol
I agree on the cage. Just don't think it fits in the budget this summer if I do a 4 link or play with the steering. Oh yeah and there's the 5.3 swap... Maybe I can integrate in the cage mounts with the body off that way it is easier to add in the future. I've got an 8-10 point for the race truck in my garage for mockup. Although I don't know if that is going to pan out. Not a lot of interest or time this summer with the old team. So maybe I have a cage already haha.
I definitely want to get the suspension out of the way if I can swing the time and $$. I should probably decide on an approximate wheel/tire size I want to go with in the future. That's been the first road block to setting my ride height in my head. 18's seem way small on most 2nd gens in my opinion, but that may be due to most guys running as small of a tire as possible. It may look better if I go with taller rubber. I also like the look of staggered wheel diameters, but 19" tires are more expensive than 20's. I think most 20's may be too heavy for my tastes though. So the question is do I do 18's on all corners or do 18/19 or 19/20. Overall tire diameter may be near the same for all of those combos or I may just need to design a couple inches of adjustment into the system rather than optimizing a single ride height.
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I'm going with 18's for the simple reason of brakes. The C6 Z51 brakes will fit under them. Don't get me wrong, big rims look good but tires weigh less then wheels. Pick the tire sizes you want before you start working on the frame this way you will know if it has to be narrowed and the size of the notch if needed. Tire diameter is needed to figure out what drop you need to get the ride height you want.
X2 for the cage even if you have to wait just because it all has to come apart to install a cage.
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think about tire availability too.
18s probably have the best selection / price.
but with a smaller tire overall diameter, the less unsprung, rotating mass you have, not to mention more 'torque' at the contact patch.
its about time you decide how deep you wanna dive the blazer into 'race' territory and how much you would sacrifice for aesthetics
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No matter what size shoe combo you decide on, ya might as well design some adjustabilty into your geometry anyway. With Triaged's calculator you can get an idea of what your dealing with for tires of different diameters. I personally ran #'s for tires from 24" to 27" in diameter and located mounting points for those different rolling radiuses. Plus you might just decide to change your ride height, AS, Rollsteer, SVSA or whatever after you seat dyno the truck. Nice to have options when you make compromises & not be locked into a set ride height, single mounting point or certain tire size, especially considering a future V8 swap & the additional traction issues you might encounter w/ the added torque.
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I'm going with 18's for the simple reason of brakes. The C6 Z51 brakes will fit under them. Don't get me wrong, big rims look good but tires weigh less then wheels. Pick the tire sizes you want before you start working on the frame this way you will know if it has to be narrowed and the size of the notch if needed. Tire diameter is needed to figure out what drop you need to get the ride height you want.
X2 for the cage even if you have to wait just because it all has to come apart to install a cage.
Exactly why wheel/tire size is my first decision. They control ride height as well as frame design.
18's should fit most any brake combo I want. Jim (ZZ4Blazer) fit Z06 brakes in his 18" Bonspeeds. I keep leaning toward 18's for simplicity sake. Now to decide width.
As a side note the V8 swap will be happening at the same time as the frame work, but will only be a 5.3 + T56 for the time being. My future goal is around 600hp to the ground, but that may be a ways off
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A 5.3 built right is nothing to sneeze at. Look at the power the "tuners" are putting down. Now google "Parish Silveraldo".
As far as width I went balls out and chose a 13" rim because I like overkill. A 295 is enough, a 315 fits most second gens fine. What do you want? You know about the 9" rim up front so.....
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No doubt it will be much more fun than the 4.3 and has potential. At this point I'm just going to drop it in as is and later down the road build up another motor. My goal is to get the motor purchased and in for around a grand (doesn't include trans). It's a stretch, but I think I can pull it off with some patience and planning.
I couldn't remember if 315 or 335 was the magic number. I do like the look of 315s and they're common enough... I've pretty much decided to do a back half since I'll need all new crossmembers from the 4 link back anyway, so I could go wider, but that could get real pricey real quick. How well do 315s fit 13" wide wheels? I really don't like the stretched tire look and that seems a bit wide for the wheel in my mind. Front width is only limited by what is existing, so that means 9. 8)
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335's fit a 10-13 rim so your fine.
The measurements, 335/30/18, I came up with require the frame to be narrowed 1.5 inches per side on a second gen pick up without cutting the fender lip. Not sure what the Blazer is but the PU is 40 1/8'. I pulled it in ti 36" just to have a little room to work with.
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can you fit a 295 or 315 with a 6in drop on a 2nd gen...
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stock frame yes 295, 315 if you dont plan on going hard around turns.
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Alright well I think I'm looking at a 26" tire, so I'm going to design to 25-27 inch tire in the design. My current are ~25 and I would like to go 27 to fill it out, but it all depends on what I find when I get to the point of new wheels.
For ride height I'd like to optimize the front with what I have + 1" drop spindles (C5/6 hub upgrade) and place the rear an inch or two higher. Currently my control arms are flat to slightly angled up from the control arm frame mount to the ball joint. Control arm mount is 7" on center from the ground. Front fender lip is 26.5" and the rear 28.25 for reference of what I have now.
Thoughts? Next steps? I need to bust out my chassis book this week.
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25.6 something dia for 275/40/17s
watch out for inner fender clearance although i think you already planned on no inners.
also, you may run into the same issue as me with the alignment not going negative enough. if so, well. time to make new arms lol
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Hmmm for some reason I measured mine instead of calculating. Maybe I'll design more to ~26-28 then. I'm only going to go bigger than my current setup.
Passenger inner is already gone. Driver inner will be gone once I do the motor swap and put the pcm and fuse block in the cab. I'll probably do trailer fenders in the future, but those will go where they fit.
So far I don't think I have that alignment issue and my arms are near the same orientation as yours if I'm not mistaken. Time will tell. New arms or adjustable arms are not out of the question in the future.
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I've been reading up on vehicle dynamics the past couple weeks in my spare time. Also picking up a complete running 5.3 tonight if everything goes right.
Main update on the truck is I upgraded the front brakes a bit. I've had a second set of Blazer spindles and brakes for the race truck and want to run the second gen wheels and tires I have already on my daily S10, so I decided to take the stock rotors and pads from the Blazer and put them on the S10. Upgraded the pads and rotors to some clearance "racing" pads from Brembo and slotted rotors. Rebuilt the calipers and painted spindles and caliper brackets as well. Haven't driven or bedded the brakes yet, but I think it should stop a bit better.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2593/4004209060_76ee4af74e_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3486/4003445733_e26e5df64d_b.jpg)
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(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2544/4003439701_2c1c692319_b.jpg)
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do you still have abs?
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Currently, yes. Why do you ask? It is almost certainly coming off when I swap over to the new frame.
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looks good, interesting slots.
lose that dust shield!
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looks good, interesting slots.
lose that dust shield!
I'm not quite sure why I kept it. Won't be too hard to take it off while I swap frames...
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Looks great, definitely lose the ABS, as that was my biggest complaint around the track. When you want to break hard and the ABS is telling you to drive slower and puching you out in the turns.
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Update: the new frame eyed the new motor on Monday night. They now reside within 100ft of each other. 8)
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lol. So you did get the 5.3?
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Yep. Full motor, 2003 Yukon, 90k, all accessories minus the belt and tensioner for the A/C. Full harness and PCM except I found what I think is one of the O2's cut off when I went to pick it up. That is a story unto itslef, but you'd really have had to be there. Hear all those stories about Detroit? I was in the heart of it haha. Intake had the screw boss for the engine cover tore off, but looks like it was only ever epoxied on from the factory. All that for $500 and if I'm lucky I can off the compressor for some money back to buy a belt and repair the harness. I've got access to wiring diagrams and plan on modifying it extensively anyway, so it won't be a huge deal. Need to remember to call the guy and pick up the harness for the e throttle and pedal that came with the motor.
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Must be the motor city because full blocks in Pa aren't that cheap. $1k for my engine, oil pan to throttle body, harness, and ecm. That was a great find!
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LOL so someone stole the cat and cut the O2 off.
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Just got to be patient and shop around. I've been watching prices for going on 6 months now. Just biding my time and making sure I had the money to drop. I called several junkyards and determined it would be between 4-600. 400 being I might get everything I wanted and 600 guarenteeing it. Hopped on craigslist and lowballed.
O2 was there when I first looked at the motor. Although they had left it in the exhaust pipe, but sawzalled either side of it. With the way they were taking this to the scrapper (late 90's ram short bed, sliced the body into 10-15 pieces) I wouldn't have been suprised if one of the guys loading up parts came over and sliced it off to get a couple extra cents scrap. >:( Get what you pay for though.
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nice!!
i need to start window shopping then i guess
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scrapers here are assholes to be polite, I got 2 fully stocked u-pull-it yards to the brim with full s-series, camaros, corvettes, and some other crazy stuff. Things rarely move because the jerk there tries to sell pieces as if they were brand new. 1 camaro SS OEM rim - $700 are you kidding me?
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Someone's paying that much or else he'd be going out of business if not lowering prices. Sucks for us budget builders, though.
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yeah, i'd like to beat whatever moron is paying them.
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It has been awhile again... but I'm ready to really move forward now. Got the frame inside and started tearing the suspension apart, so I can set the ride height. I've also got everything to test fit the 5.3 while I'm trying to decide how I want to go about a frame/body mount jig for this truck. Don't know if I'm going to do a full table or what although seems like the table will be the best for other projects in the pipe line in the barn.
Front end had the shocks, springs, and sway removed and the rear is getting drop springs and blocks installed to give a better idea of where it is going to sit before setting the final ride height.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3351/4623738768_f4dd0fae4f.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3351/4623738768_f4dd0fae4f_b.jpg)
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Very Nice, What material are the engine mount bushings, they kinda look like Delrin.
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I'm not that hard core... yet. They're poly, but it wouldn't be too hard to turn out a set of delrin on a lathe if I had one. It could happen on a future engine build.
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I've got a lathe, I should have it set up by the time you get around to a rebuild, lol.
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I'm not that hard core... yet. They're poly, but it wouldn't be too hard to turn out a set of delrin on a lathe if I had one. It could happen on a future engine build.
ive got a bit of free time on my hands now
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I've got a lathe, I should have it set up by the time you get around to a rebuild, lol.
Sounds about right haha
I'm not that hard core... yet. They're poly, but it wouldn't be too hard to turn out a set of delrin on a lathe if I had one. It could happen on a future engine build.
ive got a bit of free time on my hands now
I should design something for you to build. Either that or pick your brain to help me design. Sounds like what some of my week nights will be for the next couple weeks.
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(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4004/4623142957_4e4253d355.jpg)
that would be some pretty rad ride height right there.
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I'm not that hard core... yet. They're poly, but it wouldn't be too hard to turn out a set of delrin on a lathe if I had one. It could happen on a future engine build.
ive got a bit of free time on my hands now
I should design something for you to build. Either that or pick your brain to help me design. Sounds like what some of my week nights will be for the next couple weeks.
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do it, get them drawings to me before i find a job or other things to do lol
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Cleaned up the motor last night and got the axle on the frame before mocking up the motor. There was a ton of grease and nasty on that thing, but it looks great now. Still have to clean up the water pump and wiring harness, but that can happen anytime. The motor mounts and H3 oil pan fit great and gave plenty of adjustability and clearance. With the motor in the frame, though, it became quite obvious why nobody has used the Truck manifolds before. The driver side dumps right into the frame and they aren't as close to the block as the LS1 camaro manifolds. It is also nearly into the control arm. Passenger side fits great though. :? I also mocked up the LS1 driver manifold. It is even more into the control arm, but if the flange is extended down ward it would clear fine. May do some more brainstorming, but that is my current direction.
A couple pieces of wood up front are holding up the front right now with the LCAs horizontal and the back is sitting on 3" belltechs and 3" blocks. Ride height is fairly close to what it will be.
Head shot...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4644221078_012fe8243b.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4644221078_012fe8243b_b.jpg)
Frame on the wheels at about ride height.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4644217646_d53f72b59c.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4644217646_d53f72b59c_b.jpg)
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H3 windage tray and oil pickup tube. Windage tray looks to be the same as the truck, but the pickup is shorter.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4041/4644211538_20f4afa058.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4041/4644211538_20f4afa058_b.jpg)
Clean motor ready to drop in.
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Truck manifold clearance.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3534/4643588433_baab1135f5.jpg) (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3534/4643588433_baab1135f5_b.jpg)
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Oil Pan Clearance. Tons of room.
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awesome. good to hear the H3 pan is easy.
even with a lower sitting engine in an s10 it looks clear?
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nice job, looks good sittin on the frame.
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awesome. good to hear the H3 pan is easy.
even with a lower sitting engine in an s10 it looks clear?
Yeah. Just look at all that room under there. I'm half tempted to lower the frame pads, but I might wait until the next motor (frame?) for that. I haven't heard of anyone who has had trouble yet with the H3 pan. Only concern with the S10s is it hangs a bit below the cross member.
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Yeah. Just look at all that room under there. I'm half tempted to lower the frame pads, but I might wait until the next motor (frame?) for that. I haven't heard of anyone who has had trouble yet with the H3 pan. Only concern with the S10s is it hangs a bit below the cross member.
would you happen to know how much lower?
im still comntemplating whether i want to invest in the H3 pan or mod the truck one
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Yeah. Just look at all that room under there. I'm half tempted to lower the frame pads, but I might wait until the next motor (frame?) for that. I haven't heard of anyone who has had trouble yet with the H3 pan. Only concern with the S10s is it hangs a bit below the cross member.
would you happen to know how much lower?
im still comntemplating whether i want to invest in the H3 pan or mod the truck one
Word on S10forum is the H3 pan hangs a half inch below the crossmember. Motor in the Blazers is raised as much as the body is over the S10s, so somewhere between 1 and 2" if I remember correctly.
With the Truck pan you can either modify the pan or cut a notch in the engine crossmember.
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blazers sit one in higher.
cause i had my blazer dropped 6/7, and it was equal to a 5/6 on a s10
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blazers sit one in higher.
cause i had my blazer dropped 6/7, and it was equal to a 5/6 on a s10
Is that measuring from the wheel well or the frame?
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The body sits 1" higher is what I've always been told.
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Blazers do sit 1" higher. That is why the have the pedestals under the motor mounts. The kick up from under cab to front suspension mounting points is noticeably different.
I swapped a 4.3 from a first gen blazer into a first gen truck. the front frame sections are very different.
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Found the deal I've been looking for on the frame table. $200 and split it two ways. Definitely big enough that I can make it work for most any project I can come up with. 120" x 70" Only downside is the 1/4" top, but I won't complain at this price. The frame is real beefy and the plate supported well. Casters roll like a dream and are greasable too. Next up are some trailer jacks to level it and hold it stationary.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4687290480_ddb1298162.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4687290480_ddb1298162_b.jpg)
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And some before and after pictures of cleaning the motor I missed uploading last time.
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whats the blower looking thing under the table?
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frame table looks nice, wish I had a shop like that to work on my truck with.
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whats the blower looking thing under the table?
I have no idea. Guy was kinda sketchy about what it was used for before... "It was used for some industrial stuff that I can't explain very well" It is a 3 phase motor and could help make a nice vacuum table I'm hoping.
The shop space is very nice. I spend one night a week out here working on the frame and other projects of mine and my friend's whose place it is. We spent most of the Spring just cleaning and organizing. The space has really cleaned up a lot in the last year since his brother joined the Army. Great guy just isn't as organized as others haha.
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It looks like it could be a variable flow down-draft ventilation system used for chemical/small particulate filtration systems. I'm betting it has good flow, and decent pressure on the exhaust side, but not a lot of suction on the intake side.
IF I'm right, you'll want to clean that table really well before spending too much time around it.
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IF I'm right, you'll want to clean that table really well before spending too much time around it.
We cleaned it well and repainted it. Top is dusted with random black spray bombs. That way we can grind it off easily and recoat after tacking to it. The rest is tractor paint from TSC. Added a trailer jack in each corner as well to level the table off of the casters.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/4975958104_6097581ce1.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/4975958104/)
IMAG0063 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/4975958104/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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looking good!
but hint: its more exciting with a frame on it :P
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looks kinda like what i'm building for my frame build. building out of 3/4" mdf, 2x6 timber and prob 4x4 for legs and jack screws to level it out. gonna setup wheel base location with a stock frame and put on a set of truck arms in the process. then get my tube frame up and finish it up. can't wait to see more progress on yours. should be interesting to see progress on it!
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Completed my not freezing weather goal of painting the block. Still want to clean up the crank pulley and the valve and timing covers, but that can be done pretty easily since they are removable and portable. There is definitely some aluminum cleaning in my future.
My friend Justin is the one laying down the paint. Went with black to keep the stock/subtle look.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4149/5031879257_6ac0933bb9.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5031879257/)
P9270472 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5031879257/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4149/5032497548_280b523b26.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5032497548/)
P9270473 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5032497548/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4091/5031877771_e21a5d383b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5031877771/)
P9270475 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5031877771/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4103/5032494702_0a96d4aa7a.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5032494702/)
P9270479 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5032494702/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4153/5032493318_3f59762e54.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5032493318/)
P9270481 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5032493318/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/5032492632_3f5d16f880.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5032492632/)
P9270482 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5032492632/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4105/5032491998_0d19415f3f.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5032491998/)
P9270483 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5032491998/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4106/5031872229_ea06a10b56.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5031872229/)
P9270484 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5031872229/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/5032490450_7d54b7c44f.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5032490450/)
P9270485 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5032490450/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
BEFORE:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4044/4643589937_97fe114747.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/4643589937/)
P5270426 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/4643589937/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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saw it on facebook like a week ago, get that frame on the table!
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lookin' good!
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Table is occupied for the moment unfortunately. :( But not too big a deal since I just got back from the hospital this afternoon for my knee surgery. It will be a few weeks before I'm back out there and Al should have his tractor to fork lift project wrapped up by then, which may also help me put more money in this projects budget. :D
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Knee surgery? Been there, no fun!
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sounds like it went well, hope you're back to running soon!
and interesting project.. ask for pics!
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sounds like it went well, hope you're back to running soon!
and interesting project.. ask for pics!
Asked for pic. I can start another thread once I get some. It is pretty cool. As for running... the doctor told me no running sports for 6 months.
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since harley isnt showing it off, I thought I'd post for him. hope he doesnt mind.
Basically he's been working on beefing up his damaged suspension recently.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4153/5055387722_889b8e5bac_o.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4129/5054773449_74e04ffbd6.jpg)
lets wish for a speedy recovery for him
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The worst part is all the missing hair... :P
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More motor work while I'm disabled. I've been helping Ryo with his engine harness, so I got the itch to tackle mine. Labeled all the connectors and went to town last night.
About 95% of the wires and connectors are labeled at this point. I believe the only circuits left to label are the bank 2 O2 sensors and MAF/IAT that got cut off before I picked up the motor.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1262/5109213113_0199a56cdc.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5109213113/)
img_2931 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5109213113/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Removed all the circuits I won't need from the PCM connectors. Was thinking as I was falling asleep last night that I won't need the EVAP either, so need to go back and pull those too.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1353/5109810306_88a9d9b82d.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5109810306/)
img_2932 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5109810306/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Here is where I left off last night. Most of the hard work is done; researching, labeling, pulling the pins, etc. Just have to remove the loom and the wires. The big bundles of wire are what I'm removing. May have to add in a few wires for the manual transmission and electric fans still, but not much else going back in.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4092/5109809944_3b2d874c1d.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5109809944/)
img_2933 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5109809944/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
I labeled all of the wires I pulled in case I scewed up it will be easier to put them back in.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1050/5109211977_5152f685f0.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5109211977/)
img_2934 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5109211977/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1067/5109809182_ce8b63b930.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5109809182/)
img_2935 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5109809182/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1224/5109211175_fc4326f63c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5109211175/)
img_2936 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5109211175/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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impressed at the tidy workbench. I had to spread out all over the floor to get it done.
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Would have been nice to not have the 2.2 parts there, but it is much more spacious than a month ago, so no real complaints.
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looks like plenty of light too.
jealous of just having a garage in general.
are you extending the wires for the ecu? i dont thnk its long enough in stock form to reach into the cab
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I will extend what I have to. In all likelihood I may have to extend them all :-\ but I don't really want to compromise where I want to put them, so it will be worth it. My plan is to replace the entire length to keep solder out of the harness as much as possible.
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I will extend what I have to. In all likelihood I may have to extend them all :-\ but I don't really want to compromise where I want to put them, so it will be worth it. My plan is to replace the entire length to keep solder out of the harness as much as possible.
i bought these
http://www.delcity.net/store/Butt-Connectors/p_792236.h_792245.a_1.t_1
solid barrel butt connectors to extend mine. hope it works well
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Had a productive day out in the barn. It at least got me excited and rolling on progress again. Bolted the motor back up to the frame and added the transmission after doing some diagnosis on why it doesn't turn once the tail housing was torqued down. I'm pretty sure I have it figured out now, just need to order the tail housing gasket and put it together again. After snapping a couple pictures we laid out the harness and I think I have a way to get the length I need to run it in cab while shortening most of the circuits. 8) Less weight? haha I'm game. I'll give more details once I confirm it will work. Need to order up a couple connectors for the transmission and I can tackle it.
My friend Al decided he wanted to try out the new motor and transmission too. I apologize for the cell phone pictures, but neither of us had a real camera on hand.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5248/5316311823_0dd16a2745.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5316311823/)
IMG00006-20101230-1945 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5316311823/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5164/5316311349_afce07b5f6.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5316311349/)
IMG00007-20101230-1945 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5316311349/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5007/5316903128_b56f441a2f.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5316903128/)
IMG00009-20101230-1946 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5316903128/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5009/5316902772_0f29e49fd4.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5316902772/)
IMG00015-20101230-2029 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5316902772/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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hows the stock trans xmember working for you?
I have heard rumors of the stock auto trans xmember working for the t56s, and the 4l60e being the same length as the t56 so the driveshaft doesnt need to get shortened....
btw, looks like a good ride height!
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dont look like the xmember is working all that good. certainly too far forward in there. but its lookin good.
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I've got the motor all the way back in the mounts, but not sure that is where it will end up definitely. In any case Grappler is right about the x member being too far forward and that is typical of even 4.3 T56 swaps. I had been planning on a shorter drive shaft and custom x member since the beginning, so will just have to figure it out as I go and will know better if I can get a firewall in there.
Ride height right now is sitting on the bump stops in the front and 3" blocks + 3" springs in the back, but with just the frame not sure where that puts it. That and the whole thing is on car dollies.
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since you need a driveshaft anyways, why not move the motor back even more?
fully behind the front axle? and maybe an astro firewall?
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LOL @ Astro firewall! I like that.
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haha Astro...
Another fun thing I discovered today: the Z06 uses the same part number as the engine coolant temperature sensor to measure oil temperature in the oil reservoir. The original ECT was busted on my motor, so I picked up a pair of OEM sensors off of eBay for $25 and will be using them both through the PCM. Nearly have my harness shopping list together too.
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i know that the newer x members are set up little different then the 1st gens. but when i modified mine to work this is what i ended up with.
(http://www.vettel.org/andy/Grappler/MemFLt.jpg)
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I'll figure something out for the cross member. The motor is really far back right now, so I do really need to get a firewall in there to see. Maybe I'll get lucky and have a spare laying around at some point...
Started playing with the harness and it is looking promising. Got a $115 shopping list put together for connectors and terminals, but most of that is actually for other projects and hoping to salvage some of it from other sources....
My friend, Al, did some machine work on the oil temp sensor "mount" and it turned out real nice too. I think we have a winner.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5250/5335235814_aaca077b0a.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5335235814/)
IMG00017-20110106-2131.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5335235814/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5089/5334622053_d1eef7c9d1.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5334622053/)
IMG00019-20110106-2132.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5334622053/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5048/5334623799_9e0408c311.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5334623799/)
IMG00020-20110106-2132.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5334623799/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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looks good, i have a spare one of those if you ever need it
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looks good, i have a spare one of those if you ever need it
I thought you might. Could be a useful kit to sell, but maybe not if everyone goes with a cooler of some sort.
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I've had a few things progressing slowly with this lad. More progress on the harness. Passenger side of the engine and the transmission are mostly sorted through. I also picked up a standard cab from a pickup last night. It will be getting cut down to just the firewall and floor to help mockup the engine bay and wiring inside and out. Will be a lot easier to pull on and off the frame than a full Blazer body. With a pair of fenders and a rad support I'll have the entire engine bay mocked up for use now and in the future.
This organization makes finding the terminals and seals a breeze
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5097/5460649676_55d3f373c4.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460649676/)
IMG_2993 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460649676/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5137/5460040411_601243c934.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460040411/)
IMG_3001 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460040411/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5095/5460043803_bdaa0c8614.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460043803/)
IMG_2994 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460043803/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5019/5460043305_924b37a2d1.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460043305/)
IMG_2995 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460043305/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5460648352_eaf8c2490d.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460648352/)
IMG_2996 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460648352/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
All the wiring is run under the fuel rails. Once it is loomed it will be hidden real well and keep the top of the motor cleaned up.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5460042301_5d4d8bfb13.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460042301/)
IMG_2997 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460042301/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5015/5460647386_e0ab373028.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460647386/)
IMG_2998 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460647386/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5460646850_93d764858d.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460646850/)
IMG_2999 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460646850/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
The toe tags with connector end views are handy too. Makes identifying circuits, sensors, and connectors quick.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5016/5460040905_f7000a5bf2.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460040905/)
IMG_3000 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5460040905/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Unloading the cab with the forks on the tractor
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5092/5528915897_5480e6db0e_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5528915897/)IMG00042-20110314-2116.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5528915897/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5139/5528916145_ee81d1b461_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5528916145/)IMG00045-20110314-2153.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5528916145/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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wiring looking good! jealous of the mock up you are able to do.
but as usual. progress looks SLOW
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wiring looking good! jealous of the mock up you are able to do.
but as usual. progress looks SLOW
Looks? It IS slow haha and I'll be the first to admit it. Maybe the warm weather will fix that? Planning on being back out there Friday night.
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Congrats on making progress at all!
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Cleaned up the barn and moved the cab over to the lift last week.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5185/5548689803_e0770b688e_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5548689803/)
P3210175-2592 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5548689803/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Up and over...
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5095/5548689849_3857b206c6_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5548689849/)
P3210176-2592 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5548689849/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
But it didn't go down all the way
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5052/5549272594_ea8d531422_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5549272594/)
P3210179-2592 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5549272594/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
There was a bracket in the trans tunnel that it caught on initially. Cut that out and the shifter location is into the floor now. Between that and the height difference between the rear cab body mounts and the Blazer frame mounts I started thinking about the differences in frames and cabs of the trucks and SUVs. Conveniently the standard cab rear mount lines up exactly with the second set of 2 door mounts. Did some angle and height measurements and roughly came up with 2.75” difference. Came into work yesterday and started grabbing part numbers and pulling them together in math. The exact difference between the two is 77.5mm or ~3”. Not too shabby with an analog angle finder, a measuring tape, and a couple old rusty trucks.
While I had the math up the difference between the trucks and SUVs that results in the height difference became very obvious too. Turns out GM simply lowered the front suspension/steering about 36mm (~1.5”) in the frame. The frame is also 1.5” taller throughout. They left the location of the frame side body and engine mounts the same compared to absolute, but also added 5mm metal spacer on top of the body mounts for the SUVs to get an overall body height increase of about 1.6”. There is only an extra 5mm of clearance between the frame and body on the SUVs though. Would be easy for a 2nd gen Blazer to gain that extra few inches by swapping front clips and body mounts, but I’m happy with what I have for several reasons. First I have the Blazer frame already, second the extra cross section is stronger, and third I can drop the motor/trans down with a modified upper engine mount to help with clearances and CG. The Blazer has that extra 1.5” between the oil pan and engine cross member. I’ll probably shorten up the body mounts the 5mm too after dropping the drive train.
I still need to set the drive train angle before making any solid decisions (thinking the stock 5-6*). Part of that is getting the rear centered in my preferred ride height range; another decision.
So far using this for mockup is paying off. Going to need to rethink where and how I pull the wires through the firewall to keep the stock heater box. We wouldn't have thought to lower the motor until dropping the Blazer body on. This is much lighter... Still looks like good clearance to the firewall and once all the other issues are ironed out may be able to push the motor back further. I will be piecing together the rest of the equation with the firewall as I see good or free deals and working on the wiring and drive train height in the mean time; already picked up a brake booster.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5255/5549272628_3a7a016af5_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5549272628/)
P3210180-2592 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5549272628/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5059/5548689901_545f842337_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5548689901/)
P3210177-2592 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5548689901/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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Forgot to show how we lightened up the cab....
Click for a Video (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5541633875/)
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So this will be a blazer again, right?
Or are you going to make it a super short bed standard cab? 8)
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the video is set to private, can't watch it.
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the video is set to private, can't watch it.
Should be fixed now.
It will stay a Blazer, but using this for mockup is much easier to work around than a complete Blazer body. especially one I don't want to bang up. The rockers on this cab get shorter everytime we move it around hahaha.
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hmm... since im always thinking about how I can benefit from your hard work....
does this mean that you can mock up a trans crossmember that will work for you, which will be a bolt-on for me? :o
and shit. 1.5" of extra frame section is just not fair.
i want a blazer frame....
although i have been thinking.... cut all the crossmembers out, and widen the rails apart... = instant extra clearance for everything + wider track + well, pretty much everything is a plus, except the extra work.
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haha that might be a first, buying an entire cab to use just for mock up. It's cool to see your taking your time and really thinking things through. I wish I had that kind of patience and while I'm at it I wish I had your garage too!
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oh that poor cab.... looked like it had good metal on it too
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hmm... since im always thinking about how I can benefit from your hard work....
does this mean that you can mock up a trans crossmember that will work for you, which will be a bolt-on for me? :o
and shit. 1.5" of extra frame section is just not fair.
i want a blazer frame....
although i have been thinking.... cut all the crossmembers out, and widen the rails apart... = instant extra clearance for everything + wider track + well, pretty much everything is a plus, except the extra work.
From what I know about the frames the transmission mounting is different between the trucks and SUVs too. Text me a reminder tomorrow and I'll try and hunt down a long bed frame and pull it into math to compare. I'd love to save us that time up front on a swap for you. Especially since all the welding could be done without a cab and bed in the way.
The 1.5" is nice for the motor, but it still means the body is that much higher too affecting CG. Dropping it in the suspension that extra affects the geometry. Basically a truck is 1.5" lower for the same suspension geometry on a Blazer. That seemed to be common knowledge before, but just didn't know what in the frame caused it. I always thought body mount location, but was way wrong. Now I just need to convince Al to use his document surfing skills to dig up the why they did it that way.
The cab was pretty much scrap at this point in its life. The rockers are slowly falling apart as I move the cab around. We cut off most of the good metal anyway haha. It was a perfect candidate for this and we got enough other parts with it that it will pay for itself and hopefully help jump start a used S10 parts business I've been kicking around in my head with my friend, Al, whose barn I take up space in. I won't say taking my time with it is easy. There are definitely days when I see others getting their swaps done and hitting the road that I'm jealous, but I'm learning a lot that I think can help make everyone's future swaps better. Besides it will be done in much the way I've been dreaming for years now.
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never understood why GM would make the s10 and blazer frames different. My only guess is that they wanted a frame with less flex since the blazer's body sits on the whole frame and the s10 body only mounts to half the frame. plus the extra weight of the blazer body.
that being said, I still don't understand why they had to raise the blazers up.
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never understood why GM would make the s10 and blazer frames different. My only guess is that they wanted a frame with less flex since the blazer's body sits on the whole frame and the s10 body only mounts to half the frame. plus the extra weight of the blazer body.
that being said, I still don't understand why they had to raise the blazers up.
That was actually the best conclusion we had from our lunch conversation on the topic. They needed the extra frame height for rigidity and couldn't get it without moving the SUV body "higher" everything else considered. Just making the frame taller reduces ground clearance. If you look at the two frames in math it does seem to make a lot more sense how they did it too.
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a clear measurement on how far to move the mount hole is really all i need, but wont hurt to do some more learnings :D
remember, most people dont like lowered trucks/SUVs.
so having it 'look' higher stanced from factory may have given it a more 'premium' feel to it.
effect you see with all the CUVs running around nowadays
but for GM, making a whole new frame for a shared frame design in its second iteration is kinda expensive...
but maybe thats why the 2nd gen suvs took an extra year to come out. 94 vs 95
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The last several shop nights I've been chipping away at the lowered engine mounts. I decided to lower the engine about an inch to keep the pan above the crossmember. Al and I have also discussed ideas for a skid plate below the pan to prevent road debris from hitting the pan directly. Being cast it will break or crack instead of deform.
Lowering it definitely helps clearance from the transmission to the cab floor as well as the valve covers to the booster and heater box. I'm hoping this will give me enough space to not drastically relocate the coils.
These are some prototype mounts to test the idea. I've been playing around in CAD improving on the design and accuracy of the mounts available today to the actual parts GM designed (the engine and frame). Plan is to get the designed mounts CNC'd somehow and off load the originals and prototypes to pad my $1000 swap budget.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5267/5729867157_c66f9da750_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5729867157/)
IMG00081-20110509-2154.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5729867157/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2369/5729874259_6440b6fd69_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5729874259/)
IMG00082-20110509-2154.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5729874259/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3138/5729110706_75f17015f6_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5729110706/)
P5090175 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5729110706/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5062/5728559757_1416c4aaa1_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5728559757/)
P5090176 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5728559757/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3355/5728564279_8c828c8a00_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5728564279/)
P5160200 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5728564279/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5089/5729115662_0661a92699_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5729115662/)
P5160201 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5729115662/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5265/5729115978_8dce9ba09b_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5729115978/)
P5160205 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5729115978/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2302/5729116558_c1b81377a6_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5729116558/)
P5160206 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5729116558/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
The cross member is sitting on the wood to set my ride height, but it is also a good reference to check the location of the oil pan.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5081/5728565987_ea19d0b2e0_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5728565987/)
P5160207 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5728565987/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Perf.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3055/5728566767_296b1155c2_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5728566767/)
P5160208 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5728566767/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Plenty of transmission clearance now. Before it was into the floor. Most of that contact could probably have been fixed by cutting the shifter hole, but I feel this is the better way to do it.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3279/5728567333_f4d131e6e4_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5728567333/)
P5160210 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5728567333/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Next up is the transmission crossmember and checking manifold to steering shaft clearance. With those out of the way the engine will be where it needs to be and I can start working out a lot of different things. Here's my to do list right now.
Todo- Prototype Engine Mounts
- Transmission Crossmember
- Steering Shaft Clearance
- Finalize Engine Mount Drawings
- Engine Harness
- Dash Harness
- Firewall Harness Grommet Location
- PCM/BEC Mounting
- Ignition Coil Clearance
- Exhaust Manifolds and Y Pipe
- Rear LCA Mount Chassis Brace
- Oil Pan Skid Plate
- Front Suspension
- Rear Suspension
- Burnouts!!!
Also once the harness is wrapped up I can theoretically start up the engine. Snagged a fuel pump and sender from Parts Galore a couple weeks ago and have the original Blazer tank sitting in my garage waiting to be hooked up to this beast.
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so jealous of your mock-up timeline.
when you get a chance can you compare 1st gen vs 2nd gen clutch pedal assemblies?
if they are close enough ill have a bigger selection at PG to grab an easier to access set.
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They look to be significantly different actually. Big "might" be adaptable, but I'd stick with the 2nd gen. And actually the 98+ are different as well.
Obviously cheaper at PG if you can find them, but here is a pair from S10 Warehouse.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-SPEED-CLUTCH-PEDAL-CHEVY-S10-TRUCK-BLAZER-XTREME-98-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ae00df14dQQitemZ390306066765QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
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Started taking measurements for the transmission mount last night, but quickly realized it would be easier to pull the cab. With the lift tied up at the moment with the Fybridero I started checking clearances in the engine bay. Both coil sets clear great. Dropping the engine an inch helped clear the brake booster and running the heavy duty heater box rather than the evaporator style for A/C gave me tons of room on the passenger side. If I don't want to notch the engine cross member I should really move the engine back a half to an inch and that would require notching out the heater box to clear the head some, but not significantly. I'm OK with that compromise. I will wait until I settle on final drivetrain placment before I actually cut.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3458/5753163125_bd71d257b8_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5753163125/)
P5230006 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5753163125/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5301/5753163843_1278422f4a_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5753163843/)
P5230009 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5753163843/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5068/5753707506_4e574cc221_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5753707506/)
P5230011 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5753707506/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3018/5753707798_f05a3fe4af_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5753707798/)
P5230012 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5753707798/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
I also bolted up the manifolds to see how the steering shaft fit. Word on the street is taking off the heat shield will allow it to fit... Definitely doesn't with the shield on, but with the shaft so close I'd prefer it to stay. Still brainstorming on that. Thoughts were to shift the engine over another inch or so, but that starts really pushing clearances on the passenger side especially the exhaust manifold to the control arm. Since I'm already thinking I'll be notching the heater box I'm not so concerned about that. Tubular upper control arms would help. That may drive me to pickup a set from UB sooner than later to see how much it does help.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3222/5753708458_9a36939525_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5753708458/)
P5230014 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5753708458/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Bumped the suspension up to check clearances from UCA to manifold.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2526/5753706444_12e90b0e83_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5753706444/)
P5230007 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5753706444/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr[/img]
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What on earth is a Fybridero? A fiero grafted to the front and rear subframes of a firebird with some custom subfram connectors?
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^ lol I was wondering the same thing.
Nice progress Harley. I'm loving that idea of just using the cab floor for mockup. I might have missed it, but what do you have planned for the rear suspension?
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I was hoping someone would ask that...
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/west-coast-2009-challenger-awd-fiero-hybrid/10519/page1/
Al (Blizazer) is the new owner of that wonder. Our mutual friend, Bryce was the builder. Al and him had been talking about a project like that for years, so Al was probably the best guy to buy and continue refining the project. Bryce is also the guy who has helped me purchase the S10 and Audi out in Portland.
For the rear suspension my plan is to do a parallel 4 link and watts link, but the details are very much in the air at the moment. I've got a lot of planning ahead of me, so I've been tackling what I can accomplish easiest on the overall project with my current knowledge and trying to fit in reading and research as I can. Which I've been slacking on. I do know it will be a full backhalf to free me from the constraints of the stock frame.
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Thanks for the mention there Harley. Its a fun toy, but distracting me from other important things, like S-trucks. ;D
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Holy Shit.
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Holy Shit.
^ what he said.
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It's fun to drive, break, and tinker around with. That is for sure.
Pretty much posting to get a second opinion.
After looking at the clearances from control arms to manifolds I'm leaning even more toward the tall ball joint conversion with tubular uppers at this stage in my build. I'm pretty certain I'm going to go with the UB Machine UCA and PP S10 tall upper and lower ball joints. Been doing plenty of reading to make sure my money won't be going to waste since I'm losing a renter next month and don't have a replacement lined up.
The other options I'm tossing around, to save coin, are the speedway arms and C10 balljoints. Both would save me some cash. The C10 wouldn't give me as much extra height, so for only $16 more I'm inclined to just go ahead with the S10 pair. The speedway arms would save me quite a bit more than the ball joint, but from what I'm seeing the UB arms are better designed for the S10s and metric chassis with the work that Duster has done. Am I correct on that? Do they account for the necessary caster and camber for our trucks? The only other thought on those is they are shorter which would help reduce shims for alignment, but at this point I'm guessing I'll be at about a 4" drop total without the drop spindles, so it might not be necessary. Just worried about making sure I have as much room as I can to move the engine around.
I'd like to go adjustable uppers in the future to eliminate the need for shims and Ryo's talk of custom uprights has me dreaming too, but funds and time for that at this point are not available.
Also what has been the price for the UB arms? I'm seeing ~$50 for their standard arms on the site, but seeing people paying $65 other places.
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I have been asking about caster changes on tubular uppers for about two years now, and still don't have a straight answer from anyone.
As for the cost savings of the C10 UBJs, it's higher than that if you just grab the speedway branded ball joints, which I believe will be Elgin's now that I know that's what their branded tie rods are. Last I saw they were about $17ea.
Last thought to seal the deal on getting tubulars: heat. The 4.3s tend to cook the UCA bushings and ruin them, imagine what that thing is going to do to them.
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For whatever reason I was thinking the PP Ball Joints were $50 for the pair, but after checking back on the site I now see it is each. That definitely pushes me toward getting part store C10 ball joints for now if I run UB arms at least. Still getting the tall lowers from PP though.
I'm also still wondering about the control arm length. All my drop is from the spring, so from what I understand I will need as short of an arm as possible to avoid stacking lots of shims for my alignment as well as the increased camber gain the shorter arms gets me. Between that and the fact I can get the BJs and arms quickly from speed way for less than $150, I'm leaning that direction too.
Any other contributtions are appreciated. I'm still shopping and won't pull the trigger until the beginning of June.
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when i designed the arms, i actually put them on with 3ish inch drop coils. (cut stockers, LCA 3/4 inch from frame at bumpstop pad)
the alignment to -1.5 camber, and 7 caster, took only 2 shims on the front and 4 on the back.
we designed a bit more caster into these than stock. unklnown how much, but when compared to stock the UBJ mound is about 1/2 inch rearward.
the UB arms were origonally intended for the c10 joints, as they were designed well before PP came out with the tall ball joints.
if i remember right, theyu should be abouty 120 fdor the pair.
Michael
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how much caster will be affected by overall spindle height as well (tall balljoints will take away caster on equivalent arms)
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I can't remember how tall the spindle alone is at the moment(early morning after a long night) but pretending it's 7"(kinda close) and you add one inch with tall ball joints(the max you can) then the difference in the caster will be almost exactly .5°
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I'm also still wondering about the control arm length. All my drop is from the spring, so from what I understand I will need as short of an arm as possible to avoid stacking lots of shims for my alignment as well as the increased camber gain the shorter arms gets me.
http://www.fme-cat.com/PartDetailWindow.aspx?brand=MC&pt=Control%20Arm%20Shaft%20Kit&PartNumber=K6218
Moog sells an offset UCA mount bar. May not be useful if you go with toob control arms or spherical rod ends, but for a rubber/poly stock arm it keeps you from having to shim as far when dropping.
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Huh, I didn't know moog had one too.
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I'm also still wondering about the control arm length. All my drop is from the spring, so from what I understand I will need as short of an arm as possible to avoid stacking lots of shims for my alignment as well as the increased camber gain the shorter arms gets me.
http://www.fme-cat.com/PartDetailWindow.aspx?brand=MC&pt=Control%20Arm%20Shaft%20Kit&PartNumber=K6218
Moog sells an offset UCA mount bar. May not be useful if you go with toob control arms or spherical rod ends, but for a rubber/poly stock arm it keeps you from having to shim as far when dropping.
I did think of that when shopping around, but it makes my clearance to manifold problem worse. Trying to avoid moving the control arm toward the engine is a primary concern.
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and a shorter arm helps with camber gain
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You might consider just stowing away the extra cash to get the fully adjustable uppers mate. It's only like 4x as much $$$.
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Don't think I'll come across that extra 3x$$ anytime soon while moving ahead with the rest of the project. The arms that I've found out there adjust from 8-10" according to SC&C. From what I've been reading on the internet arms in the 7-9" range would be more useful which pushes me toward custom and down that avalanche towards full custom front suspension.
I'm crossing my fingers that when/if that time comes the off the shelf arms and ball joints can be repurposed to another project or pawned off on some other aspiring PTS10.
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Actually they have the 7-9" in stock at summit from SPC and they've come down in price since I last checked. $150ea.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPS-92546/
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Sweet. I'll have to dig further when I want to go adjustable. Still too pricey for my build at this point.
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^ wow those have really come down from last time I was looking at them.
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Yeah, last I can recall they were 180, down from 210 or 220, each.
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^ wow those have really come down from last time I was looking at them.
I was thinking the same, I'm actually considering them now.
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Hey Harley - do the ART lower control arms you run have drop built into them? Do you have the new or old version of the arms? It's hard to tell from your build thread pics.
I'm going to pick up the shockwave arms from generics10 that you linked to a while back in the classifieds here. My stock LCAs are not happy with the new coilovers.
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Harley has the drop arms, he's had them for at least 5 years now... when did they update designs?
how do the stocks not like them exactly?
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5 years sounds about right. I didn't even have the truck 6 months before I did the front suspension. If I were to put a date on it I'd say June of 2006.
I don't know about the new or old arms either, but I do know from comparing mine with the arms to another truck without, both with the QA1s, that I'm getting about 3 inches of extra drop out of them. Can't wait to couple that with the tall ball joint and eventually a drop spindle. ;D
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The newest shockwave arms use a through-bolt mount on the bottom instead of the t-bar. These are the ones I'm hoping to get
(http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/ARTlowercontrolarms.jpg)
The shock mount on my stock lower control arms is about an inch lower now than it used to be and it drops further every time I race it. The shop that put them in mounted them with the t-bar below the LCA instead of above and the bolts are pulling the shock mounts down. Mounting them above the LCA may have helped a bit but I think the same thing would have happened eventually. The shock mount just isn't strong enough.
Harley - do you still have room to adjust your ride height up or is the pic on the first page of this thread as high as it goes? I'm wondering if I should buy some shims before I get the new LCAs put in.
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Never seen those before. Are they ART? With the straight tube they won't give as much clearance that my style arms and the newer ART arms do. Personally I don't think they will compliment a coil over setup well.
This is the style I have. I haven't seen any deflection on the plate and when I got the shocks rebuilt one of the bodies was cracked and had to be replaced. I run the T bar on top.
(http://www.s10forum.com/classifieds/data/14/shockwave_2.jpg)
This is the through bolt style. Definitely looks beefier than mine, but I paid a ton less.
(http://www.ridetech.com/store/images/detailed/S10_Lower_ShockWave_1.jpg)
My ride height is set about an inch or so from the bottom of the threads on the shock body. Should be another couple inches of adjustmentment or more. I'm also a Blazer, though, so an S10 will be another 1.5" lower.
With whatever style you choose, I'm sure you will not like the sway bar mount. It just doesn't seem to be in the right place for the lower ride height. I know both my friend Jim and I have bent several end links with these arms.
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Do you think there will be clearance issues with the frame? I can get these for significantly cheaper than a new set of Spohn's and I've heard bad things about the frame mount tubing splitting apart on those.
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Where have you heard about the spohn arms coming apart?
I haven't run a set of S10 arms from them, but I had a set of their arms on my third gen camaro and the guy I sold it to is still running them without issue. If their quality has tanked I can think of a few people who would really like to know about it.
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There is certainly less room. Not being bagged it probably won't be an issue, but I'll take all the room I can to avoid control arm to frame friendships. That low hanging basket screams at me too, but takes up about the same real estate as my arms; mine just have the tubes running with it.
If the price is right don't let me talk you out of it. Today I wouldn't pay $500+ for the Spohn's or $600 for the ART's. That is a lot of serious cash for some plate welded to a couple tubes and the Spohn's are ugly and bulky looking to top it off. I paid in the $300-350 range for my ART's new back in 2006. I did my whole front suspension AND bought my wheels for about a grand IIRC.
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thanks for the input. I just looked at pics of the current Spohn's and they also use straight tubing and a similar hanging basket thing for the mount. I'm looking at about $300 for these so they would save me about $100-120 over Spohn's (they're listing for $389 at Summit). They are new, they've just been sitting around for a long time. ART arms are $600 so I thought that price was reasonable.
I've read a few forum posts about the mounts on the spohn's (both UCA and LCA) peeling apart. Someone mentioned that they're made of seam-welded tubing. I don't know how common that issue is though.
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I just looked at pics of the current Spohn's and they also use straight tubing and a similar hanging basket thing for the mount.
Yeah, I don't like that about the Spohn's either. :P I'm definitely glad I got my ART arms for so little so long ago. I'd wager the bend is there because they're being bought to layout on shockwaves.
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The shock mount on my stock lower control arms is about an inch lower now than it used to be and it drops further every time I race it. The shop that put them in mounted them with the t-bar below the LCA instead of above and the bolts are pulling the shock mounts down. Mounting them above the LCA may have helped a bit but I think the same thing would have happened eventually. The shock mount just isn't strong enough.
I always thought that would be an issue with running stock control arms & coil-overs. I've seen a lot of people say it's fine but I just couldn't see the shock mounts being anywhere near beefy enough.
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Even though we're off topic in here.... I'm still working on this every week. Al helped me pull the cab out of the way, so I could work on the transmission crossmember and while I was waiting on some parts I mixed it up with more harness work.
To start, I followed Al's lead sectioning the crossmember and bolting the sections where they go. I then capped them off after some trimming since the transmission is set over an inch. Tacked in some gussets and then removed it from the frame to weld it up.
With how much the transmission mount is moved back and down I'm planning on going a different direction for the final transmission crossmember, but this does the job for now, keeping the powertrain where I want it to be. Plan is to get some tube bent up to run the exhaust underneath, so that can be removed with out removing the crossmember. I don't think the exhaust will be able to be routed to avoid going under the transmission, so I will plan on dropping it if I ever remove the trans.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5067/5859176900_696d6e4f9b_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5859176900/)
IMG_3173 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5859176900/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2767/5859176044_24f0131c28_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5859176044/)
IMG_3174 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5859176044/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5185/5859175362_ec57e92558_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5859175362/)
IMG_3175 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5859175362/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5022/5858621351_e12cf55cd7_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5858621351/)
IMG_3176 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5858621351/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
The wiring is pretty much all laid out where it needs to be and shortened where needed. I still have a few circuits to add and need to finalize the location of the O2 Sensors and Fuel Composition sensor before taping up and looming it. I'm really happy with how it is turning out and once it is loomed I doubt much of it will be readily visible. It isn't even now. Biggest hurdle right now is determining how the circuits for the 5.3 harness are going to be powered off of the 4.3 Fuse Block. I'm trying to maintain some of the extra starting functionality the 5.3 PCM offers as well as sort out ways to use some of the more modern sensors and switches that came with the engine/trans.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3206/5858620471_85a8cee927_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5858620471/)
IMG_3177 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5858620471/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5152/5859172804_4389e19a7f_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5859172804/)
IMG_3178 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5859172804/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2794/5859171958_bc0897b539_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5859171958/)
IMG_3179 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5859171958/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3110/5858617649_738bab5f71_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5858617649/)
IMG_3180 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5858617649/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Next up is modifying the exhaust manifolds and fabbing up a bracket for the fuel composition sensor. That will help me wrap up those electrical circuits. Probably should start roughing in ideas for the Y Pipe too, so I can get the final crossmember made up.
All the ball joints have arrived. Still waiting on the arms, but not quite back to that part of the project yet.
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What did you end up deciding on for your wheel/tire combo harley?
Progress is looking great, I can't wait to see the pieces all together.
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I'll be sticking with the 17" Cragers for now on 245/45 an 275/40s that I have already.
Eventually something similar to 295/30R18 and 335/30R18. I'm looking at 26-28" tall tires pretty much.
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A little more progress. Driver manifold is nearly ready to have the extensions welded on.
Going on a mission trip starting Sunday, but will have a couple full days to attack this after the 4th. I need to start figuring out what needs to show up to keep the ball rolling.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5150/5866101209_8890d0618b_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5866101209/)
IMG00102-20110623-2306.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5866101209/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5104/5866094825_db57e27b9a_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5866094825/)
IMG00104-20110623-2307.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5866094825/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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Been slowly picking at this over the last few weeks. Spent at least a week trying to drill a couple 1" holes and it wasn't happening for whatever reason, so switched gears and got some other projects taken care of. In the mean time my UB Machine uppers came in. Last night I put them together and started tearing down the front suspension.
So far I'm quite pleased with the purchase. Lots to be gained with these other than just the improved geometry; weight and control arm response being significant. Without the rubber bushings the control arm movement is smooth and easy and hopefully gives a more solid/connected feel while tearing through the turns too.
9 pounds
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6061/6027612649_fb449a5c6a_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6027612649/)
IMG_3219 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6027612649/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
5 pounds
(https://farm7.staticflickr.com/6122/6027610971_fa8d4fa414_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/abD5K6)IMG_3221 (https://flic.kr/p/abD5K6) by Harley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/), on Flickr
14 pounds
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6199/6028161762_0d3cc82cbd_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6028161762/)
IMG_3222 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6028161762/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(https://farm7.staticflickr.com/6208/6028160954_4156b52a04_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/abFUey)
IMG_3225 (https://flic.kr/p/abFUey) by Harley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6186/6028159890_dde343c854_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6028159890/)
IMG_3226 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6028159890/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6078/6028158978_34f3b7d4d0_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6028158978/)
IMG_3227 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6028158978/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
And some vids:
aiiohohohohohoadiaidfaidf (http://flic.kr/p/abFPys)
smoooooooooooooth (http://flic.kr/p/abCYu2)
Thursday the Blazer is getting pulled in and her first tear down for this project will begin. I'll be pulling the LCAs to weigh them, swap in the tall ball joints and put them on the frame for mockup.
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The difference in UCA movement is massive eh? I couldn't believe how much resistance was there with the stock rubber bushings.
That's a nice weight savings too. IIRC my QA1 springs were 6 lbs lighter (each) than ZQ8 coils. I still have them in the garage so I'll check that to make sure.
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Definitely a significant difference. It's like it was designed to rotate now.
I'll be weighing stock coils and shocks as well on Thursday and I'll throw on the QA1 setup too while I'm at it if I can get it off of the Blazer.
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about time the blazer gets off the road!!
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There is definitely more caster in those arms too!
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about time the blazer gets off the road!!
Hey now. It's been parked for about a year now and off the road besides the trailer excursion out to Romeo.
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Got the rest of the front suspension parts off of the Blazer last night. It wasn't too bad, but we had to cut up the passenger side front mount where, to make a long story short, I found an old cement light pole base with my front cross member. I'm crossing my fingers that the ART LCA isn't damaged because buying another set isn't cheap. Blazer is sitting on stock LCAs again quite literally. Bumps stops are the only spring at this point...
Compare the two sides. We cut the lip off to help get the ART LCA out.
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6067/6034885153_8262957c9d_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6034885153/)
IMG00134-20110811-2114.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6034885153/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6191/6034879907_650724d43c_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6034879907/)
IMG00132-20110811-2113.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6034879907/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6150/6035433922_0fe02d4f5f_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6035433922/)
IMG00133-20110811-2114.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6035433922/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
More carnage to get the stock LCA in and keep the truck mobile.
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6144/6035440506_2b6473e7cd_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6035440506/)
IMG00135-20110811-2157.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6035440506/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6082/6035455114_28d669dab0_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6035455114/)
IMG00136-20110811-2157.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6035455114/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
And grabbed the final weights for the new and old front suspension parts.
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6083/6035453406_b77f8c2bf5_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6035453406/)
IMG00139-20110811-2225.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6035453406/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6146/6035415038_96cd00e92d_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6035415038/)
IMG00121-20110811-1918.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6035415038/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6123/6034892977_0dba82b1c4_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6034892977/)
IMG00137-20110811-2224.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6034892977/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6068/6035418230_f6e24953b5_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6035418230/)
IMG00122-20110811-1918.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6035418230/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6088/6035448810_13d06bc98a_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6035448810/)
IMG00138-20110811-2225.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6035448810/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Stock Front Suspension
UCA: 9 lbs
LCA: 14 lbs
Shock: 3 lbs
Spring: 14 lbs
Total: 80 lbs
Modified Suspension
UB Machine UCA w/C10 BJ: 5 lbs
ART LCA w/tall BJ: 11 lbs
QA1 Double Adjustable Shock: 3 lbs
QA1 250/350 3/5” spring: 7 lbs
Total: 52 lbs
Total is for both corners with a weight savings of nearly 30 lbs.
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wow. didnt realize how bad it had been bent.
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are those dual adjustables? got a part number on the shock or kit?
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Nobody believes me with how bad it was haha. The frame is scrap.
They are double adjustable. I will try to remember to look up the part number on the reciept this weekend. I bought them back in 2006.
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wonder if there is any way to make use of that scrap frame.
might be a good way to box a frame, but i think2nd gen blazers are already full box all the way down?
cant really think of a good use of a spare frame.....
custom trailer?
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Scrap money? haha That is the current plan at least.
The Blazers are boxed almost all the way to the shock mounts above the rear axles and they add a box section between the shock mounts and the rear-most crossmember too.
S10s go to a C channel before the front leaf mount unfortunately.
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The Blazers are boxed almost all the way to the shock mounts above the rear axles and they add a box section between the shock mounts and the rear-most crossmember too.
Must be a second-gen thing as my frame goes to c-channel at the front leaf mount
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The Blazers are boxed almost all the way to the shock mounts above the rear axles and they add a box section between the shock mounts and the rear-most crossmember too.
Must be a second-gen thing as my frame goes to c-channel at the front leaf mount
It is. Didn't mean to confuse anyone, but was responding to Ryo's 2nd gen comment earlier.
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Finished putting the suspension together last week and pulled the 17" Steelies off the Blazer for the frame and engine to show off. Ride height is looking good with the LCA and tie rods using the tall ball joints and UB Machine UCA's.
I'm going to wrap up putting the T5 back together for my long bed tonight and then get back on extending the Stainless LS1 manifolds to get one more step closer to having the harness done.
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6071/6127592356_084c8f4dce_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6127592356/)
P9010240 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6127592356/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6079/6127591380_cf4b32b2fa_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6127591380/)
P9010241 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6127591380/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6070/6127590454_638835d6a1_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6127590454/)
P9010242 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6127590454/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6193/6127041809_448108a139_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6127041809/)
P9010273 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6127041809/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6087/6127588532_079270f80f_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6127588532/)
P9010274 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6127588532/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6198/6127039961_1d5b69f4c1_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6127039961/)
P9010275 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6127039961/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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looks good, just curious, how does the droop stop work on those ucas?
also, this temp sensor... wouldnt you want it upsidedown to avoid bubbles?
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6070/6127590454_638835d6a1_z.jpg)
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There is no droop stop currently. I think it was rentedmule who clamped some rubber stops to the arm to replicate it. I know worst case I can go that route. Haven't gotten there or thought much about it yet. Knowing these trucks it will be necessary.
I originally planned on going down with the temp sensor, but not sure if there will be enough clearance to the manifold. Still working that out, but I can always unbolt it and flip it over. The way it is setup I don't think there will be room for much of an air bubble anyway.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5250/5335235814_aaca077b0a_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5335235814/)
IMG00017-20110106-2131.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/5335235814/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
I did mount up the driver manifold and get the O2 lined up how I want tonight. Even checked for tool clearance if it ever needs to be removed. Enjoy the useless video haha I've got the next bend mostly ready to tack on and that will determine which way(s) I can run that temp sensor.
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6181/6129282136_0f6b0301b6_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6129282136/)
P9080283 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6129282136/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Tool Clearance (http://flic.kr/p/akzmkz)
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hmmm... maybe i should have you take back the manifolds and tack the pipe extensions on for me as a copy of yours?
I havent quite figured out how I'm going to manage getting my manifolds mocked up since the truck isnt moving and i dont have a welder....
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I can certainly do that. Just have to keep in mind that it is a Blazer frame and my engine is lowered too. Which could just mean you have more clearance to the firewall copying mine.
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Also forgot to load these up from my phone. Just some glamour shots of the tall ball joint in the ART LCA.
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6081/6129833011_1013440922_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6129833011/)
IMG00158-20110829-2104.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6129833011/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6088/6129829637_5969ecf5fc_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6129829637/)
IMG00159-20110829-2104.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6129829637/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6193/6130375590_48643f012b_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6130375590/)
IMG00160-20110829-2104.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6130375590/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6184/6129822653_be0f58e3b0_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6129822653/)
IMG00163-20110829-2105.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6129822653/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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Small update today.
Last night I finished preparing the passenger manifold. Bored out the flange to fit a 2.5" exhaust tube and cut off the remainder of the flange that won't be needed. The driver side is pretty much ready to weld up and finish the extension, but I'm short a small bend to complete the passenger.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xSiRF7w1xh0/Triv-NEeMsI/AAAAAAAABWU/__Qf5hSCdW0/s800/IMAG0004.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TfvTmN0a7tM/Trivc8ZjaTI/AAAAAAAABVo/xp22pZWCfY0/s800/IMAG0023.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jzlFnIZoBLo/Trivc-7mZDI/AAAAAAAABVo/7VYQIZIvU4I/s800/IMAG0022.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sXJSxdpHz9Y/Trivc2OGH9I/AAAAAAAABWw/xQHHuzgpHdk/s800/IMAG0021.jpg)
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Looks great, definitely lose the ABS, as that was my biggest complaint around the track. When you want to break hard and the ABS is telling you to drive slower and puching you out in the turns.
If you want to have selectable ABS, put an interrupt switch on the brake lamp input to the ABS module. If the module doesnt know you're on the brakes, it won't try to pulse them.
Now I'm wondering what could be combined into a 'track mode' switch.
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I apologize if you have answered this before or it is posted somewhere else, but what dimensions did you end up going with for the UB UCA's? I emailed them but have not received a response. I guess they don't want my business.
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theres a part number.
look in the stickies on s10 planet where i posted them.
and call. they answer phones, but not e-mails.
kinda like me.....
michael
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theres a part number.
look in the stickies on s10 planet where i posted them.
and call. they answer phones, but not e-mails.
kinda like me.....
michael
What he said. I can't think of where I have them written down or posted to be honest. If you want me to check the sales receipt send me a PM sometime this upcoming weekend because I'm really forgetful.
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I'm trying to stay focused on the exhaust, so started mocking up the y pipe. Decided to make use of having the frame on a welding table, since I didn't have the tube on hand that I need. I fabbed up some simple brackets to locate the tube where I need it and once I get the tube in I'll just drop it in place and cut to length.
Tons of room to the body on the driver side.
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6039/6390211037_944d9052b3_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6390211037/)
IMAG0042 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6390211037/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6229/6390211255_883d700585_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6390211255/)
IMAG0043 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6390211255/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6037/6390211537_a8218b355e_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6390211537/)
IMAG0044 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6390211537/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Not nearly as much on the passenger side, but it snakes through just fine. Had to mount the O2 sensor forward because of it. Not excited for the extra length of wire I'm going to have to run up and around the engine, but it is the best option for heat avoidance and service.
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6225/6390211773_628ac092d5_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6390211773/)
IMAG0045 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6390211773/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6233/6390212175_3df8b9e33a_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6390212175/)
IMAG0046 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6390212175/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
The passenger half of the Y-pipe is going straight back. The muffler should pretty much be in line with this and I'll purchase it to offset for the tailpipe as needed. The crossover will happen behind/underneath the tailhousing of the transmission. Not enough clearance to go under the transmission without hanging below the frame.
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6215/6390212857_3a57811ddf_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6390212857/)
IMAG0050 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/6390212857/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Next I really should mock up my final trans X-member, so that I can account for packaging that. I did say I was focusing on the exhaust, but that seems like the next step in terms of things that could get in the way of the exhaust.
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looking good! you do solid work
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Better than nothing... I've got the transmission cross member mostly roughed out. Bent about a 1.5-2" jog in some round tubing and using the factory mounting holes with a tiny twist I'll share when I get there. Pictures are easier than words.
Here's the tube in place. Not sure if you can see it, but the jog isn't parallel to the ground; it is rotated back and down a bit. Needed the tube to move both back and down and this worked out the easiest.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8zQUvHPNToM/T60qjQtASeI/AAAAAAAACbI/RadRFuPDHUk/s635/IMAG0202.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dk8zV3KTzYk/T60qjXjS67I/AAAAAAAACcI/cRPLqv6U6b8/s635/IMAG0203.jpg)
The mount plate is a pretty simple design. I just slotted a 1/4" plate for the two outboard holes on the mount, then drilled a hole to the size of the cross member and cut that plate in half for the supports. The excess metal still needs to be trimmed off.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9YfCONGqwPI/T8_5IrBX2FI/AAAAAAAACm4/sqv02ErNlfM/s635/IMAG0228.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-O4TCc-F48Ew/T8_5IkhTz1I/AAAAAAAACm4/BwwqgP7Ux4w/s635/IMAG0229.jpg)
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Any update is a good update! Looking good
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More cross member progress. I have a few small pieces of metal left to tack into place, but it now supports the transmission without any help.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5276/7374906238_64c26bd8e6_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7374906238/)
IMAG0237 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7374906238/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8154/7374906298_a0cdd00e35_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7374906298/)
IMAG0238 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7374906298/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Compare this picture to my previous post. Weight savings? Sure haha
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5275/7374906374_d8b10acc4e_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7374906374/)
IMAG0239 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7374906374/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Passenger side mount is slotted for any cross car variance. GM did this too, so I'm just copying.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8005/7189664697_8b0f600857_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7189664697/)
IMAG0240 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7189664697/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Added an angled filler plate and prettied it up with the grinder. Should tie the plate in better to the tube too.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7092/7189664759_a332e4afa3_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7189664759/)
IMAG0241 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7189664759/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7230/7189664919_535c8f07d7_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7189664919/)
IMAG0242 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7189664919/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5445/7189664997_cb304fe065_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7189664997/)
IMAG0243 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7189664997/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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side gussets are kinda girly looking.
can we get a butterfly tramp stamp on your tailgate? ;D
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side gussets are kinda girly looking.
can we get a butterfly tramp stamp on your tailgate? ;D
Meh. They'll probably look better once welded. Besides they were pre-cut on the shelf. I've spent enought time cutting and grinding for this cross member that I nearly don't care what something under the truck will look like.
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More slow progress today. At least it feels that way to me. Y pipe is nearly laid out though. Most of the remaining pieces are already cut and prepped. Just have to finish cutting the second piece for the merge and the rest should fall in place.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8152/7505538026_e05a5e16cf_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505538026/)
IMG_6574 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505538026/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8282/7505535924_ac6a4a6d18_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505535924/)
IMG_6575 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505535924/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8293/7505533794_b662485f4c_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505533794/)
IMG_6576 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505533794/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8286/7505531972_1c6c70d1e6_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505531972/)
IMG_6577 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505531972/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7115/7505530322_e00ffded6a_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505530322/)
IMG_6578 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505530322/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8142/7505528352_16fbe72e76_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505528352/)
IMG_6579 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505528352/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7106/7505526610_d05fa1552d_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505526610/)
IMG_6580 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505526610/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8155/7505524550_9bcaf58f21_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505524550/)
IMG_6581 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505524550/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8016/7505522560_ce1dc0ca52_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505522560/)
IMG_6582 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505522560/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7108/7505520790_416787ec8d_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505520790/)
IMG_6583 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505520790/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8017/7505519022_5d37e9a422_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505519022/)
IMG_6584 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505519022/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8431/7505517126_4f37ed5ebf_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505517126/)
IMG_6585 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7505517126/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=232215
motivation
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Those are just silly. They're cool as hell looking, but assuming those are mini-fuses, those panels are about the size of an 8x10 picture. Where would you put a fuse panel that big, and for that matter, why?
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Those are certainly fancy....
but my real motivation as of Tuesday night is having the merge complete.
A bit tighter on the damper than I was hoping, but since I probably won't run it I'm not worried. Still have a half inch clearance at the tightest places.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7261/7641369910_53e55415cf_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7641369910/)
IMAG0273 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7641369910/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8433/7641364982_55d87e9f7c_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7641364982/)
IMAG0272 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7641364982/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7257/7641358910_42104c02ba_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7641358910/)
IMAG0271 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7641358910/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8434/7641333380_d2d58d0915_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7641333380/)
IMAG0270 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7641333380/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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agreed, they are huge, i prefer a tighter package, but most street car bodied race cars have a crapton of interior surface area left over.
especially to "fill" triangles of their cages.
nicely laid out apart electronics makes troubleshooting a breeze.
Harley, looking good.
but i forget. are you making a perpetual motion engine with no exhaust outlet?
-edit-
this is nice though
Can I have?
(http://dunebuggy.com/extras/wireracecar/wire1.JPG)
(http://dunebuggy.com/extras/wireracecar/wire2.JPG)
(http://www.dunebuggy.com/assets/newspix/large/228-2.jpg)
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but i forget. are you making a perpetual motion engine with no exhaust outlet?
Ha! That would be convenient. Just don't have any 3" stainless tube around to figure out the cut off and wrap up the outlet.
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Ok, now that relay box with switches is just gorgeous, that I like, and may have to emulate. I'm about two hours of fighting away from scrapping the entire body harness.
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Its not that hard to cut and crimp to length then throw a bag of zip ties at a project, anyone here can do that. Just ask the Hybridero (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v401/blizazer/2006-09-10%20EV%20Cart/P1000736.jpg) test (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v401/blizazer/2006-09-10%20EV%20Cart/P1000735.jpg) bench (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v401/blizazer/2006-09-10%20EV%20Cart/P1000732.jpg).
I think Harley's on track to have an engine harness that looks OEM with the way he's going.
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Ok time to take a giant picture and update dump. I might be able to remember everything I've done the last few months, but I've been slacking on pictures.
No pictures, but I got the trans crossmember welded up by Ryo and then gave it a good blast, grind, and prime before another friend painted it up pretty for me. Also did the same with some new upper fuel tank straps.
Since I left off on the exhaust I took some measurements and dropped them into the CAD model I had of the exhaust and frame to size up the space I had for a muffler. Picked up a Magnaflow 12589 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-12589) Muffler. It fits great [snug], but if I were to do it again I would probably go with the 12289 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-12289) because it is narrower and closer to the stock muffler dimensions. I have the 3" bends I need to finish the Y-pipe to muffler, but need to bug my 3" straight tube source some more to pick that up and finish the exhaust for now. I've got the tail pipe modeled up, but need to find a shop with reasonable prices and CAD bending capabilities. [/wishful thinking]
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8068/8200196537_c77332a163_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200196537/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200196537/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
As you can see above I dropped the mockup cab onto the frame to check exhaust clearances since everything I had done was only visual estimation between CAD and the real world. It is a bit tighter than I thought on the passenger side, but enough. If I were to redo it I'd get 1-2" jog in the straight pipe going back while extending the manifold drop for some extra clearance. It would still be tucked in the frame and less of a passenger foot warmer.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8145/7641301252_e22d1d29bc_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7641301252/)
IMAG0248 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7641301252/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8421/7641302828_4af958e970_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7641302828/)
IMAG0250 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7641302828/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Also with the cab on I started a new trend of bravely cutting up the mock up cab. First victim was the harness pass through. Found a great location on the flat to the passenger side of center on the firewall. It lines up where the harness comes off the engine at the passenger fuel rail. On the interior there is an emty space betwen the firewall and the HVAC blower box with space to drop down underneath. I was thinking I would have to clearance the blowerbox, so this is a huge win. The hole actually needs to be larger than is shown in the picture. The Fuse Block connector barely fit through, but I found a firewall grommet from an early 2000's Grand Am/Alero/etc. that is a great, larger candidate.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8340/8200199837_53439133b3_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200199837/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200199837/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8068/8200200751_150cb41b88_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200200751/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200200751/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8346/8201290874_1892e53bf9_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8201290874/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8201290874/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8485/8201289910_ddf9c92e1f_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8201289910/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8201289910/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Finally in September I had a Saturday free and a couple friends willing to help. Friday evening I drove the Blazer into the hoist bay. Saturday morning around 9 my friend Julian and I started tearing into it. He left at 3 with the body separated, the engine pulled and on a pallet, rear end swapped to the spare, and the old frame outside in shame.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8066/8201284632_9fdda415cd_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8201284632/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8201284632/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
That afternoon Ryo stopped by with his G/F and a friend to help me get started on a bunch of different things. Oddly enough I have finished only a few of them so far haha, but it made me realize I needed to focus when I stopped back in the next time and was overwhelmed by all the little things that are next on the list.
Ryo did figure out how to get the steering shaft to fit for me. Once I get around to getting the last pieces of my first engine mount revision I'm hoping they let me slide the engine over for a hair more clearance.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8350/8200797172_c5994d6a4f_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200797172/)
IMG_6598 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200797172/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
My electric throttle pedal was lifted from an S10e. Unfortunately neither the bracket nor the pedal share a bolt pattern with the gas pedal, but since it was fitted in an S10 it was laid out correctly otherwise and has the right electronics to work with the 5.3 TAC module and electric throttle. I took the base plate from the stock gas pedal and grafted a 1x2 steel tube to create the new bracket. Just had to cut the tube at the correct angle, drill out the bolt pattern, and weld them together after trimming up the plate.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8063/8201283490_3f235b1269_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8201283490/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8201283490/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8061/8201285550_fed437e8fe_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8201285550/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8201285550/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8483/8200194789_e2af9a091f_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200194789/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200194789/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8059/8201287448_e9baef1b62_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8201287448/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8201287448/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
With the S10e truck being a unicorn Al and I (mostly Al actually) did some digging through GM parts. A similar pedal also comes on the EV1 (more unicorn), but also the diesel GMT400 pickups as well. That last will probably be the easiest source for someone interested in a better fitting pedal than the GMT900 monster.
As I've said earlier I tried to redouble my focus and work on one aspect of the build at a time. Since the body is taking up space on the hoist I decided to get it prepped for transfer including wiring, shifter location, welding up extra holes, etc. Started with the IP harness. Got that wraped up pretty quick just pulling out unnecessary circuits. Actually have a few more to pull and a few to add in, but that's how it goes sometimes. The body harness has been quite the challenge though. With adding in the one touch start, lighting control changes, and a few other things along with my picky attention to the most minute details I've already spent several weeks working through it.
Here's the current wiring mess with the interior completely stripped.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8482/8199673381_90e334081a_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8199673381/)
IMG_6602 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8199673381/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Got to a point where I needed to know where the fuse block was going to be located, so spent some time mocking up the brackets for the ECM and fuse block. The packaging is much tighter than I imagined. With the T56 shifter location further rearward I thought there would be plenty of space. I was wrong, but the exercise got that figured out too. I eventually got a stack up to fit the ECM, TAC, and Fuseblock very snugly up there. Too bad the need for quick change fuses is a bad thing... Will have to extend some wires for the fuse block on the engine harness that I thought was complete, but I will clean up the rest of the wiring inside the cab while I'm at it.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7116/8163207424_347f396307_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8163207424/)
IMG_6586 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8163207424/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7121/8163176091_fdef06d508_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8163176091/)
IMG_6587 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8163176091/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8341/8200794726_b682b43dbe_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200794726/)
IMG_6596 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200794726/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8062/8200795852_743d6aed9a_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200795852/)
IMG_6597 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200795852/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
With the brackets done I need to relocate the Blazer's shifter hole since it is right where I need to weld the brackets in. Started cleaning up the floor and firewall of unnecessary brackets and studs to prepare for that. Even gave myself a go at some body work that will never see the light of day. I'm happy enough with the results I may keep going on the firewall. Note the blue tape that designates all the holes that need to be filled.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8477/8199674807_196e234e95_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8199674807/)
IMG_6603 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8199674807/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8070/8199736151_34c1cd3fa6_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8199736151/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8199736151/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8062/8199732411_735f0df710_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8199732411/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8199732411/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8204/8200768162_a7d227e61b_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200768162/)
IMG_6604 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8200768162/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8201/8199679559_dee0856b5a_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8199679559/)
IMG_6606 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8199679559/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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And for your viewing pleasure a teaser of the second revision of my engine mounts.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8324/8089980499_5b07e616cb_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8089980499/)
Frame Mount (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8089980499/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/1996-94-02-GMC-Chevy-1500-2500-3500-DIESEL-accelerator-gas-pedal-sensor-assembly-/00/s/OTYwWDEyODA=/$(KGrHqN,!k0FBSJ+PEU-BQcJJ2MFuw~~60_12.JPG)
An ebay example of the mid 90's fullsize throttle pedal for reference. Rust and dust optional.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380482844146?item=380482844146&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
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me likey progress
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glad to see some progress going on this project!
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Projects like this are one of the main reasons I missed this place..
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Thanks for the feedback. Always great motivation to have you guys interested in it. I'll have another full day out at the shop on Friday. The weather is looking good and I'm excited to do some more welding on the body.
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Projects like this are one of the main reasons I missed this place..
x2 - they're inspirational
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and informational!
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Finished filling all the holes in the floor today. Would have liked to have gotten to some other things, but I'm slow, so I'm happy to have this done.
Robbed the mock-up cab of a floor section.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8207/8212608968_ebdf906f89_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8212608968/)
IMG_6607 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8212608968/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
And filled in the factory shift hole. Top side I cleaned up pretty well, but didn't feel like prettying up the bottom since it will be out of site and I'll brush some seam sealer over the welds for extra protection.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8066/8211520227_d72508bc5f_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8211520227/)
IMG_6609 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8211520227/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Finished welding up the spot welds that were holding the SIR module bracket in place. The bracket was sandwiched between the body and the seat bolt brace, so I shoved a piece of sheet metal back in there to take up the space and hold the reweld.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8346/8212608118_94c33981af_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8212608118/)
IMG_6610 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8212608118/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
All the bare metal got a coat of primer top and bottom.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8200/8211519225_0b1edd64ee_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8211519225/)
IMG_6612 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8211519225/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8487/8211518867_8a46c027b0_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8211518867/)
IMG_6613 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8211518867/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
The gap in the back will be cut out for the new shift hole, but I will probably have to do a bit more body work to finish it up. Also trying to decide how to reinforce the seat bolt brace since I will be cutting a large hole in the front of it for the new shift hole.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8487/8211518867_8a46c027b0_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8211518867/)
IMG_6613 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8211518867/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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I've never tried one of these, but it sounds ideal for dropping in panels like that.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-punch-flange-tool-1110.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZSxhj_2Avg
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maybe you shoulda gotten a donor automatic blazer shell too
I've been impressed how easily the non-air powered versions of Al's idea works.
i've never used one aside from just playing with it.
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Guess I could have gotten a full auto 2 door with a blown motor and just started over haha It would need to get the hole cut out for the clutch then. Might be less work, but it is all done now.
That does look like a handy tool. I still prefer not having overlapping panels like that. At first glance you wouldn't notice it was patched plus the greater possibility of water getting between the panels and rusting it out. It SHOULD be fine, but should never seems to work out for me.
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looks great, do you plan to have any interior in this?
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Probably most of the interior for now. It isn't caged yet and I'm using the stock switches and gauges still. I'll be leaving much of the interior out of the rear. Maybe even the rear carpet, but I can't think of anything up front I will leave out when it goes back together.
I take that back I'll be pulling the passenger air bag since the rest of the air bag system has been removed.
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Like I said elsewhere, I've been working at finishing up the firewall. Less brackets, less holes, and one new hole for the harness pass through. Stole the large grommet from an Alero I believe. Should look stock when I'm done. 8) I am sure out of practice with body work, though.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7291/8978292889_85b491a9a1_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8978292889/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8978292889/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5334/8979483172_baae1fed7a_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8979483172/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8979483172/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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Maybe I'm not so bad at bodywork. Other than a few drips that are hidden behind the HVAC and wiper motor, I think the firewall turned out great.
Fresh Paint
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7396/9039910445_85e10353d2_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/9039910445/)
IMAG0410 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/9039910445/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2862/9042133324_ec99d15bf4_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/9042133324/)
IMAG0408 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/9042133324/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Before
(http://l7.yimg.com/te/8201/8199679559_dee0856b5a_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8199679559/)
IMG_6606 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/8199679559/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
After
(http://l4.yimg.com/sm/5482/9091367787_0d18986c99_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/9091367787/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/9091367787/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5479/9093591984_9df1a5f3f1_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/9093591984/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/9093591984/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5333/9091370553_398073f55e_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/9091370553/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/9091370553/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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look at how much dust has accumulated! :P
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Looks better than the paint on the outside of my truck!
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look at how much dust has accumulated! :P
Body work and dirt roads will do that in short order.
Looks better than the paint on the outside of my truck!
Mine too!
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Any more pics of the motor mounts? The design looks awesome, I would like to see how they turned out.
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Any more pics of the motor mounts? The design looks awesome, I would like to see how they turned out.
did the new angled design ever get cut?
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Any more pics of the motor mounts? The design looks awesome, I would like to see how they turned out.
did the new angled design ever get cut?
No and as you know I've still to get the original design to you to weld up. The guy you reccomended to me has been unresponsive when I've emailed him since I got the first set, too. Back to finding someone local who will cut for a reasonable amount or making enough money flipping cars to buy my own cutter. Both of those options seem like long shots at this point haha.
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No and as you know I've still to get the original design to you to weld up. The guy you reccomended to me has been unresponsive when I've emailed him since I got the first set, too. Back to finding someone local who will cut for a reasonable amount or making enough money flipping cars to buy my own cutter. Both of those options seem like long shots at this point haha.
sounds like a typical annoyance when you try to find cheap work done by people who do it for side jobs...
might be faster just buying a bandsaw and being careful!
bandsaw and bridgeport are how mine were made! self labor is free right?
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sounds like a typical annoyance when you try to find cheap work done by people who do it for side jobs...
might be faster just buying a bandsaw and being careful!
bandsaw and bridgeport are how mine were made! self labor is free right?
Pretty much. I would do that if it was a priority, but would also be nice to find a water/plasma/laser cutting source I can trust locally. That way I just need a crazy idea and a few hours on the CAD machine to get stuff made up.
These are the only two other pictures I have. Both are of my initial design that is yet to be welded. I keep putting off deciding what size bushing and tube I want to use.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7231/7027145747_e98cc73dcc_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7027145747/)
ISO - Driver Mount (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7027145747/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8142/7641299382_7dcaafa4bf_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7641299382/)
IMAG0245 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/7641299382/) by TheHarley (http://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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How about some wheel discussion now that the Isuzu has inherited the original wheels for this project?
I've got some phone calls to make to see if I can get the width, offset, and bolt pattern I want without too much trouble. If I have to go with 5x120 I've got a solution I found on a Camaro forum a year or two ago that uses a valve cutter to bore the pattern out to 5x4.75, but if I can get the manufacturer to do it for me...
Anyway 18x11 with 315/30R18 tires looks to fit the back easily enough. Front has a slim chance as I'll show below.
My mockup wheels/tires are my 17x9 with 275/40R17 and 5" backspacing; very similar diameter to the 315/30R18. In the back, even with full bump and some droop on the other side, I've got nearly an inch of clearance using my poster board template on the 17s. 6" backspacing is looking like the magic number.
Up front with the 18x11 mock-up it doesn't look too bad at ride height.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5173/13837337154_2e2daeb558_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/n5KYfw)
Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/n5KYfw) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/74024601@N00/), on Flickr
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2846/13836950505_56f0a875d2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/n5HZja)
Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/n5HZja) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/74024601@N00/), on Flickr
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2891/13836941245_a304083bec_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/n5HWyv)
Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/n5HWyv) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/74024601@N00/), on Flickr
Give it a realistic max bump of ~3" or so and things get tighter.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7018/13836933775_c83555c94f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/n5HUkH)
Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/n5HUkH) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/74024601@N00/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3750/13836955283_719180685e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/n5J1Jx)
Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/n5J1Jx) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/74024601@N00/), on Flickr
And max out the suspension at ~6" (I should have measured) and there's almost no turning radius. Tire is into the cab and brake booster.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/13836930343_ca561cb28a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/n5HTjx)
Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/n5HTjx) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/74024601@N00/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3735/13836889335_de46365c03_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/n5HF8v)
Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/n5HF8v) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/74024601@N00/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3786/13837189354_686cc2c3e1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/n5Kdjf)
Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/n5Kdjf) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/74024601@N00/), on Flickr
Once the project is moving again and the body meets the frame, I'll order up a pair of 18x11s and the 315/30s to test fit before making a final selection up front.
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Can you run a smaller booster? And tub the cab? :o
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Hydroboost and tub the cab. :)
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6" of travel is unnecessary on a vehicle you are planning on compromising ride quality of anyways.
i think getting 3" of travel is a good idea, but no need to double it. just get good bumpstops.
but good to know it looks possible!
thing to note for people who havent noticed: going to 18s actually gives you a selection of tire sizes that are shorter overall than in the 17s (for the 275+ sizes)
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6" of travel is unnecessary on a vehicle you are planning on compromising ride quality of anyways.i
This. I simply did the 6" of travel out of curiosity and for reference. I'm pretty sure my shock will bottom out before I get 6" of travel. I'll have to toss those in without the spring to check that sometime too.
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Bolted a few things onto the mockup to check for clearances up front. I have a couple ideas rolling around in my head for the radiator and fan, but need to do some more electric fan shopping. I had a "corvette radiator" on the shelf that I picked up several years ago anticipating needing more cooling at some point in the Blazer. Looks about the size of a 2.2 radiator with a double core. May have a trick to mount this and have it look stock, but still clear enough for fans with the truck accessories. Slim chance, but I will explore it before cutting up the brand new rad support.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7197/13998416616_e9306b53f2_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/13998416616/)
20140425_225634 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/13998416616/) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7011/14041536383_ecdb846c5c_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14041536383/)
20140425_225647 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14041536383/) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7382/14021982754_e7223cf75d_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14021982754/)
20140425_225702 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14021982754/) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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look into the "taurus" fan. in quotes because it came in many other vehicles(only v6 cars, the intrepid was another one), but is refferd to as the tuarus fan swap. it fits the stock s10 radiator almost perfectly, and flows something ridiculous like 3200+ cfm, its relatively thin, and you can get them new from ebay for less than $100. they are 2 speed and most people have had no need for the high speed with thier 4.3s. large cables and proper relays required as one might expect with the currect draw for that type of flow.
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got curious and found this
http://www.v8s10.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=33173
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i've been told the fiero fan is quite nice too, and plus you probably have some laying around
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After using the taurus fan then switching to an intrepid fan i will personally never consider the taurus fan for an s-series swap again. With changing nothing but the fans my 93 v8 s10 ran 10° cooler.
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Already looked at both the Taurus and Intrepid fans. I ran the Tuarus on the Blazer up until I tore it down. It seems to flow well, but draws an obsence amount of current. The depth of the Taurus fan also doesn't fit in the space I'm looking at nor did I want to keep running it. Intrepid fans do fit the 4.3 radiator great, but the 2.2 and Vette rad I have are narrower than the 4.3 rad, so no go there. I'll pull the dimensions on the Cavalier fan here at work and take some measurements on the mockup to see if that wouldn't work out. It uses the same fan blade as the Electric S10, which used the same radiator core size as the 2.2.
List of other possibilites after reading through that thread (and Ryo):
Fiero
Taurus SHO
LT1/LS1 Camaro - actually thought about this already and have a mockup in one of the other S trucks at the barn, but didn't think it would fit well on the smaller core.
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If you're looking to run super wide tires all around, here's a truck I found online that proves its possible. Looks to have pre runner fenders and pulled bed sides, no inner fenders, and possibly extended control arms? Tires are 335 KDWs.
(http://blackwidowexhaust.com/images/phocagallery/adams/thumbs/phoca_thumb_l_adams-05.jpg)
(http://blackwidowexhaust.com/images/phocagallery/adams/thumbs/phoca_thumb_l_adams-06.jpg)
(http://blackwidowexhaust.com/images/phocagallery/build/thumbs/phoca_thumb_l_s10-18.jpg)
(http://blackwidowexhaust.com/images/phocagallery/build/thumbs/phoca_thumb_l_s10-15.jpg)
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More pictures of that truck are never a bad thing. 8)
From the little information I have found on his setup I'm pretty sure he is running a stock based suspension. I don't think it is widened, but he certainly has his front offset pushed out.
He has pre runner fenders both front and rear. Not sure how much I can pull the quarters out on the Blazer, so I'm seeing what I can stuff under stock sheet metal for now.
My 245/45R17's on 17x8 wheels rub at full lock on the Isuzu with xtreme coils and tall lower ball joints. I know I'm going to rub, but should be enough room to still enjoy spiritied driving even if parking is more of a planned event.
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the lower arms appear to be stock length on that truck. its got some ridiculously wide rims.
by accident, i have discovered that the monte steering box im using on my truck limits the steering more than the s10 box. im running the same size wheels and tires and it doesnt appear that they will rub, obviously with the caveat that you lose turning radius. im also not sure if the stop tabs on the spindle/lca are supposed to take the abuse to the front steering while at lock. this may not be an issue a street truck though.
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http://blackwidowexhaust.com/gallery
^More pics.
I wonder if its the spindles that push them out far. You can only see the inside of the rims in the pic on the lift.
After I put on the Belltech Blazer spindles, I had to bend back the steer stops. The steering wheel literally could only make one rotation before the spindle touched the stop. I bent them back as far as possible, which I kinda regret doing now because the tires rub hard at full lock. Just for fun I tested fitted a 1" spacer on and it eliminated the rub on the frame and sway bar. But with a 18x8 +0 and 245 it slightly skimmed the back of the inner fender at full lock. With a 18x9.5 +6 it skimmed the inner fender and rubbed the sway bar and full lock.
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Here is a link to the build thread he was doing last year on the truck. Rob is a cool guy and a great fabricator. Check out his c10 if you get a chance called "hell boy". It's a lot more trick. His shop is no limit engineering.
Link to s10 build
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=561670 (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=561670)
Robert
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I snagged some pictures of a Cavalier radiator and fan at the junkyard the last time I was there. The actual core is smaller, but thicker than the 2.2 S10. The end tanks will swap between and I do like the e fan and radiator mounting with the Cavalier setup. It does run a pressurized coolant bottle, which would change my plan for that, but would allow me to recess the radiator without worrying about the pressure cap. It would be part of the coolant bottle.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3719/14118990187_5f0e414631_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14118990187/)
Cavalier Radiator and Electric Fan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14118990187/) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3759/14282390336_a70434e24f_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14282390336/)
Electric Fan Mounting - Cavalier (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14282390336/) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3787/14302191671_00fc5816fc_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14302191671/)
Cavalier Radiator - Passenger End Tank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14302191671/) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
Also threw my beatup Hombre hood on the mockup frame. The engine beauty cover won't fit from the truck intake, but everything else clears fine. I'll have to see how the Chevy hood compares to see if the underside is the same between them.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2935/14173268468_102c3decce_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14173268468/)
20140531_114158 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14173268468/) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2899/14173412607_af22b991a3_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14173412607/)
20140531_114218 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14173412607/) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3907/14358362502_907a7aecc2_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14358362502/)
20140531_114224 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14358362502/) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5039/14359013424_4b42fe68be_c.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14359013424/)
20140531_114243 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/theharley/14359013424/) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people/theharley/), on Flickr
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Cool idea using a cavy rad! It definitely would clean things up....not having to butcher the core support for cap access. What does the overflow look like for mounting? There's some aftermarket options for tanks if the factory cavy is a bear to mount.
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I actually have an aftermarket resevoir that I was going to use on this project since I've ditched the inner fenders. Problem is it is designed as typical overflow and doesn't have a built in rad cap, which would be needed for the sealed system. I'll probably pick up something similar with a cap built in and use that.
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i ended up just making my own based on an aftermarket design like this one
(http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/4208/rret.jpg)
mounting it on the head made for a nice clean package too.
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I was thinking a home made reservoir might end up being the best choice too, just to get all the hoses right. Are you volunterring your welding skills? haha
I was planning on mounting the original reservoir to the rad support, but I don't think the cap will be high enough. I'll certainly be keeping the head mount idea in my head.
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yea, get the pieces made up, i'll put it together. no guarantees of the prettiness for aluminum welds nowadays though, way out of practice.
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I'm at least throwing some money at this project. Ordered up a pair of 18x10 wheels as I couldn't find any 11 wides I wanted to afford in a bolt pattern I wanted. Also had to suck it up and buy adapters too since 0 offset wheels are a rare find outside of custom orders.
Pair of these with a machined lip and chrome rivets:
http://www.frsport.com/XXR-52180142N-521-Wheel-18x10-0--25-5x114-3-5x120-Blk-Mach--Lip-Chro-Riv_p_19222.html
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yaay!
i just ran the numbers, unfortunately I don't think i'll be able to stuff those up front in the rx7 but it might be close to fitting in the rear.
maybe once you find some 11 wides I'll be in the market.
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Wheels didn't take too long to show up. Had a big box at the door on Friday. Tires (315/30R18) are waiting at Discount for me to stop by, so once I find some free time I'll have them put together. Just waiting on the spacers for mockup.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y4GIQeYKWjY/U8mDci4BMPI/AAAAAAAAH0I/mPRAH7OEHgA/w399-h709-no/20140718_162654.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eFV5NNrcytY/U8mDndCUbTI/AAAAAAAAH0U/nMaqhPG28lw/w1130-h636-no/20140718_162725.jpg)
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Very nice!
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I've been pimping these pictures over on Facebook already, but don't want to leave you guys out. Test fit will happen tomorrow. I'm hoping the wheel studs aren't too long to work with the 25mm adapter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Mse15612yGA/U9r3SfgRQxI/AAAAAAAAH5o/adl0ckT4ago/w399-h709-no/20140731_191427.jpg) (https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8g20EySw09w/U9r2--CuGlI/AAAAAAAAH5E/8k9qi460PoY/w399-h709-no/20140731_190109.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XEhqE-v_hS8/U9r3ObDHWaI/AAAAAAAAH5c/mZmsa0nr2lw/w1130-h636-no/20140731_190146.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9-YgzKjwWs4/U9r3HI1uDBI/AAAAAAAAH5Q/CR1l6GUugZw/w1130-h636-no/20140731_190128.jpg)
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dually conversion!?
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So sexy 8)
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Nice! I can't wait to see the test fit.
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Test fit is very optimistic, which I wasn't expecting. I prepared myself to mount them on the front and immediately decide that it wouldn't work, but I'm thinking the 315/30R18 tire at my ride height has a very good chance of working. The 0 offset doesn't seem to be the right choice front or rear, but could work up front. There is clearance to the frame in the rear, but it is very tight as I'll show in the pictures below. I should look up official numbers for front and rear track width, but using a quick measurement of one of the other Blazers in the yard it appears the front track is wider by about an inch per side. I can comfortably push the front wheels out another inch and the rear another 2 (from 0 offset) if the relationship to the rear fenders is similar. I'll get the body on the frame and the truck on the ground before making a final decision.
The real concern up front is steering angle. Using the hood line for reference Al and I were estimating 30* of angle on the Isuzu with 245/45R17 up front. The 315/30R18 was somewhere around 22.5*. Push it out an inch and I should gain some more. I'll probably start playing with trigonometry and mocking up 3D models of the wheels to play around in CAD this week. I definitely want to add in steering and bump stops for the front suspension to protect my tires once I have all this sorted out. They will collide with the frame and wheel tub otherwise. Anyone know what reasonable steering angles any track oriented vehicles use? I'll have to start browsing through my vehicle dynamics text books from college again.
I may be on the hunt for a 4WD 8.5" rear to get the extra width I need out back. That would let me still use the 25mm spacers I have for the rear and purchase a set of 50mm for up front. That would even out the track width if my measurements are right. But I will at least wait until I have the body on the frame before making that financial decision.
This is going to look killer.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5587/14637199799_0623e39634_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oirtxM)20140802_162210 (https://flic.kr/p/oirtxM) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
But this isn't going to work.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3924/14637196279_eaf8bf599c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oirsv6) (https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2906/14821485114_891fc99e18_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ozHZ9N)
Ride Height up front
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2910/14821488184_6832feb998_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ozJ14J)20140802_155628 (https://flic.kr/p/ozJ14J) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Full Bump up front (~4")
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5588/14637320637_8170690c0e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ois6tc)20140802_153454 (https://flic.kr/p/ois6tc) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
The camber pulls the tire in nicely.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2916/14820768621_9b7a253c96_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ozEjat)20140802_153510(0) (https://flic.kr/p/ozEjat) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
Full steering angle up front.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2909/14637156650_3509a51f7a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oirfHQ)20140802_153601 (https://flic.kr/p/oirfHQ) by TheHarley (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
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no idea on steering angle, but maybe look at turning radius numbers to compare?
looks good though!
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After some brainstorming today and pulling out some equations and estimations I think the primary factor I should focus on is the turning diameter as that really speaks to the rate of turning available. Especially with the short 100.5" wheel base of the Blazer I don't need as much steering angle as longer vehicles. Feel free to contest me on that, but at the moment that's what I'm benchmarking. Considering a ZQ8 truck goes 2.5 turns lock to lock at the steering wheel and has a 12.7:1 ratio I'm finding the stock trucks have about 35* of steering angle. Some simplified calculations give me a turning diameter of 33.5 ft which is close to the advertised 34.8 I have written down. C5 & C6 Vettes are in the 40ft range.
If my 22.5 angle estimation is correct that puts me about 48 ft and my simplified trig tells me an extra inch out of the wheel will net me another 1.13* steering angle and drop the diameter down to 46 ft. At the same time I modeled up the tire in CAD based on manufacturers specs and I'm getting close to 30* (38ft) of steering angle on the inside corner with the wheel pushed out an extra inch, 25* (44ft) if I stick with 0 offset. My gut is still saying this can work out quite well in either offset.
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I would definitely push it out the extra inch for 38ft, that'll net you a u-turn on a four lane road. My 96 silverado had a 46' turn diameter and it drove me nuts having to do either a three point or to use a heavy right foot to spin it around. If push comes to shove, you can always baja fender her.
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i love how the mr2 can basically uturn in a 2 lane road.
I think you'll learn to live with whatever angle you can get, but depending on how you drive, a shorter wheel base car can get sideways faster than a longer wheelbase car. which means more oppo, which means you will feel the want for more lock than a longer wheelbase car.
maybe.
i'd say run what you have and do simple stuff like simple spacers for now, drive it, and if it feels like you want more lock, then start thinking about notching the frame rails, longer control arms etc.
one thing to watch with spacers and more neg offsets... watch that scrub radius (KP trail) too much like my zr2 and it sucks driving on split mu surfaces. hit a big water puddle / slush pile with one wheel and expect to get yanked into it.
another reason to consider a longer control arm....?
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Low speed maneuverability isn't a huge concern as it won't be a daily driver. I'm more worried about having enough lock for oppo and similar situations like Ryo mentions.
The Isuzu already tracks pretty hard with road surfaces due to the extra caster and wide tires, so I do have some experience with pulling. The S10s from the factory are setup with so much scrub radius already it's inevitable when going big like this.
I'm certainly going to run as is for now. Need to get it on the road and enjoy it before taking it to the next level. I lack focus already, so I really need to limit the scope of the project. But any serious geometry changes and I might as well go for a full custom chassis.
Regardless I need to get the body on and a decent alignment worked out before making any final decisions. Just wanted to get the thoughts and calculations done while the mockup was fresh in my mind.
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I spent most of my last week working on this. Well just fitting the radiator in the core support. I wanted something to appear unmodified once the truck is back together, so I spent time disassembling several of the spot welded parts to get the Cavalier radiator to fit inside just right. Ended up cutting the entire bottom out of the core support and built a second piece to act as the radiator support. I used the factory upper bushings from the cavalier, but cut down the brackets to just a metal donut to support, but not cut the bushing. Cut holes in the upper portion of the core support to just fit the modified brackets. For the bottom I used the factory S10 upper bushings. They're a rectangular rubber cup that holds the portion of the radiator that clamps around the end caps. Lots of clearancing throughout to fit all the details of the fan, drain, and other radiator features. Still have a few more places to trim a bit more away and add a pair of bolts to support the front of the core support to the lower structure.
I hadn't thought about the height of the upper radiator hose on the cavalier radiator. It is a bit low, but I'm looking into capping off the water pump neck and boring out the boss that would allow me to make it forward facing at a similar height to the radiator outlet. That should eliminate any high spots outside the radiator.
Anyway, that's progress. Now to keep some momentum on this even as I get the Isuzu back on the road.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/502/18851674484_07075269d8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/uHRL3q)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/541/19467841622_126172016e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/vEiM4L)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/358/19467841072_ab27fdff81_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/vEiLUh)
Plenty of working room, now.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/549/19286608178_942d92241c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/vohUFd) (https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3695/19474171435_83320ffc61_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/vESdGt)
I'll have to get some more close up pictures of the entire assembly to show some of the clearance details. I could knock this out much faster the second time through, but I was trying not to remove more than I needed.
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Looking good!
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now you should figure out how to maintain AC :)
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Easy. Drive the Isuzu.... ;D
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Yearly updates? Dammit...
Well considering the only reason I'll be in the good ol' US of A these next few months is to finish this project... maybe I'll be updating more. I won't make any promises.
I did however, in between chasing down issues on the Isuzu, training for World's Toughest Mudder, and general catching up with friends this last month, find time to work on this project. I spent most of my time test fitting and mocking up the intake tract and steering shaft, but also made up the E85 sensor mount and restarted momentum on the exhaust. I should have the exhaust through the muffler completed with another day in the shop and I'm really happy with how the merge and transition from the 2.5" downpipes to the 3" tailpipe turned out. It came together exactly as i had planned and that is always a good motivation.
I made my merge based on this how-to from honda-tech: http://honda-tech.com/forums/welding-fabrication-53/merge-collector-fabrication-101-a-2787713/ To transition from 2.5" to 3" tube I flattened the 3" tube in the vice and it lined up perfectly after a few trials and some grinding to straighten everything out.
The original 5x11 Oval Magnaflow muffler I purchased was wider than 11"... so I couldn't fit it in the 12" space I had. Ordered up a 5x8 and have plenty of space now.
Too bad I'm taking 2 weeks out of town for WTM, but once I'm back I'm excited to keep going.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5478/30775998585_33536a6863_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NTz3ag)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5550/30140494113_46039f418c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MVpUPB)
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looking good!
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Glad I'm breaking the trend.
Finished up the exhaust through the muffler. No pictures yet, but I picked up some stainless rod and a bunch of exhaust brackets at the junkyard to get the mounting sorted out. That's on the plan for tomorrow, but the final hangers will have to wait for some stainless washers I ordered up.
I also ordered a set of smaller dimple dies to fancy up my brackets. I may be joining the dimple die everything club soon. :D
PCM bracket with the E85 bracket in the middle. E85 bracket is now ready to weld to the frame. Another goal for tomorrow.
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5571/31248024316_15e1547d94_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PBhhXW)
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5469/30916635210_78845f1cde_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/P6ZQwE)
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bends look good, what are you using? I don't remember seeing a finger brake
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5 lb Sledge and the Vice are my bending assistants. ;D
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Exhaust is all tacked together. Tried something new bending up the 3/8" Stainless Hanger rods I picked up (Amazon FTW). Built a quick jig with a piece of pipe I cut off the muffler and hit it hard with the Oxyacetylene torch. Definitely got better as I went.
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5791/31239272972_1ab1b1d6f2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PAvruG)
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5653/31239272482_d1f1f3d701_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PAvrmf)
I was able to use the factory exhaust hangers and happy it came together so well.
I have another bend that I will use to support this rod from the bottom.
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5511/31383369725_3c6b600de0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PPeYrt)
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Picked up a new bent to fit set of fuel lines for a Blazer. Problem is they appear to be for a 4 door. Definitely not right for the 2 door, but the company is so far trying to make it right and asked me to take some pictures for them.
Definitely not the same line:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5627/31383368105_28b705b23b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PPeXXx)
Regardless it had me pulling out all the fuel lines I had on hand and I pieced together the forward half after getting the E85 sensor welded up to the crossmember. I couldn't get my welding skills together today, but it's on there. The welds just look like poo. Once I test fit the cab I'll splice the front lines with the cut offs I have from the Yukon I pulled my engine from. Already brainstorming how I'll mount the lines to the transmission. I'll only need to tweak a few bends and add one bracket to have it laying nicely along the T56.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5482/31239265552_5b30ec4a52_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PAvphL)
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5503/31268347691_1531084758_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PD5soX)
These are all factory parts and connections so far.
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Ryo stopped by with a friend from work and between the two of them they spent part of the day making much better TIG welds than I could without as many hours practicing. Oh did I tease? I have no pictures, but I have many thanks to those two. I'll finish up the last few welds this week and get it mounted on the frame again for some pictures.
Ryo helped me start tearing down the frame to get it off the table and start the final build up. Getting this done is really starting to feel like a reality.
I was debating if I should find a way aka a warm place to clean up and paint the frame, but then I started looking and thinking about what needs to be done for the suspension and I know I'm going to be trying many different ideas in the future to get it closer to what I want, so just putting it together for now. I might clean up some of the uglier rust quick with a brush and slap some tractor paint on the uncoated portions.
On that note in my S10 forum browsing I've been seeing several builds lately that have been relocating spring mounts to get lower. One of my biggest contentions with my current suspension setup is the use of blocks, so I'm really tempted to go this route too. The Blazer front mounts are actually quite easy as they're riveted to the outside of the frame. With the sliders I plan to run in the rear it doesn't seem to hard to recess and weld them up into the frame. Ryo was concerned about the leaf clearing the frame, but the more I looked at the more I think I can work around that too. Tailpipe routing on the passenger side will get tighter and if I run the parking brake cable I'll have to drill a through hole into the front mount. Nothing that can't be worked with.
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(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5628/31427323025_c97caaef1e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PT8fdZ)
Between the sliders and wanting to get the ride height correct I'll be waiting until I have most of the weight on the chassis before I mock it up, but the mind is already running with the idea.
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so far ive been super impressed with the durability of the brush-on rustoleum bedliner. unfortunately haven't been able to find it sold on any local shelves, but amazon has it.
brushes on very thick, and sticks well to light rust as well. so far aside from a section I ground off on a rock on my rock sliders, not a single flake or chip.
although it has only been a couple months, I'll let you know in the spring how it likes salt.
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Nice to hear it's approaching the finishing stages. Your frame looks miles better than mine as-is. A few years ago I spent about a week scraping, wire brushing, using rust converting primer, and painting and it's basically all gone now.
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It's one of those things that I'd like to do because I doubt the frame will ever be bare again, but the timing is bad with the weather and I'm likely to continue to modify the frame, so it isn't the best situation for it.
The tube bender said they found the right CNC files to match what I showed them. Supposed to have new lines bent up this week, so that's another improvement.
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Nice to hear it's approaching the finishing stages.
HA!
but yes, progress is good!!
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Nice to hear it's approaching the finishing stages.
HA!
but yes, progress is good!!
It's all relative - this project will likely be finished long before my truck has a turbo and a 5 speed :P
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Thanks for the confidence in my progress haha
I'm really slacking on pictures, though. Finished up the fuel lines up front today and the new rear lines from In-line Tube were spot on. They took care of me, so I'm happy.
Spent most of this week cleaning up the shop in preparation to get the frame on the ground. It may be early next week before I get the last of the exhaust welding done and back on the frame for some quick pictures.
Rentedmule, how are the 550 lb Springs treating you up front? I like the 590 ZQ8 rate on the Isuzu, so I'm thinking of going all the way to 650 with the weight of the V8 and Blazer. Had any issues with the shocks themselves at the higher spring rate or has the higher rate eliminated most of the destruction from bottoming out? What was the part number you ordered for the new springs?
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what's the calculated corner frequencies between those two spring rates?
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I'll have to check the part numbers for the 650's, they're out in the barn. I still find the 550's too soft and have bottomed them out a few times; nothing serious but I can see witness marks on the coils. No more damage to the LCAs but the mounting plates are already bowed and so are the T-bars on the shocks.
I still only run 5-6 clicks from the lowest setting on the shocks for street driving and up to about 9 or 10 for auto-X. There still seems to be plenty of adjustment range and I wouldn't expect a problem with the 650's. I was hoping to have those on and tested this fall but the snow came early and the truck is parked now.
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what's the calculated corner frequencies between those two spring rates?
I'd have to dig a bit to see if I saved any of my calculations from before, but I probably did them on paper. That's long gone if so. My memory tells me 600 (aka ~ZQ8 rate) was spot on for the same corner frequencies as a Vette.
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I finished welding the exhaust last week and got it all bolted back on. Really happy with my progress on TIG welding even if the welds don't look as good as I'd like. Definitely don't look bad and I'm glad to have that tool and skill in my pocket. Exhaust and fuel system are ready for a test fire now. Exhaust hangers turned out awesome.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/1/506/31064238713_b47280518a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Pk3kUD)
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No pictures of laying out the harness, but got that on with the starter. Found a few connectors I tore off the last time I removed it, so those got fixed. Also worked out some ideas for heat shielding the fuel lines and harness near the exhaust on the transmission. Could have a video of the first start up next week. Only need a handful of small parts from the junkyard, oil, and gas to fire up.
Went ahead and purchased the 650lb springs, so that won't be holding me back once the suspension and chassis is going together. Ordered them on Christmas day and Summit already delivered them out to the shop yesterday.
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yay progresss!!
is that enough room to bend over the rear end?
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Should be. The rear of the muffler is within an inch or so of the factory muffler.
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Nice!
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It looks even cleaner in person.
The rate of progress lately has been awesome!
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Al and I rearranged the barn yesterday. Nothing was left untouched. Frame is at the hoist and ready for tear down. I put together a few things to test fire the engine without the rest of the truck, but it wouldn't build oil pressure. It was running when I bought it, so I'm guessing it's something with the oil pickup or pan. I'll drop the pan when I pull it off the frame.
Borrowed Al's GoPro and made a timelapse of the day. Engine starting is at 8:20. Enjoy! https://youtu.be/66eHYVscGy4
Also stopped at the junkyard this morning. They had an RSX and brought home a very nice pair of cloth seats. Was hoping for leather, but surprised with the quality of the cloth; mostly suede, not terribly dirty, and no tears. Thanks for the idea Rentedmule!
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/1/419/31965301921_0404a672a8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QGEwBc)
Now that I've made so much progress I'll be travelling for a few, but looking forward to getting back to it.
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The cloth looks great and will probably be better than the leather for hard driving. I may have to go back to using kitchen cupboard liner on my seats once I get them installed.
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I definitely used that reasoning when I found them in the yard. That and I don't want to be hunting for the perfect seat and end up with no seat. I found a pair at a yard in Chicago last week, but the leather was completely trashed. Of course the same yard I found the cloth pair in dropped another RSX later that same day.
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seats look nice! will you try to retain the flip forwards function?
what color oring is on your pickup tube?
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holy crap did the fiero drive itself out?
test setup looks great!
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Fiero took some coaxing but did cooperate. It wants more attention than its getting.
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Al didn't mention the Fiero would only move under electric power. Go go electric vehicles.
I'll have to check the o ring once I pull the pan, but I do remember reading a discussion somewhere about the importance of the color.
My plan with the seats is to maintain the Honda mechanisms and somehow merge the lower rails of the Blazer and Honda together. Honda has a mount at each corner attached with some kind of weld rivet thing. I was thinking of drilling it out and replicating the layout with pieces from the Blazer rails. Once the body is on I'll explore it more.
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I already started grinding off the tabs on the rsx seats - there seems to be a weld in addition to the rivet (or maybe mine are just rusted in place). Without the tabs, the sliders look almost identical to the universal ones I have on the race seats in the truck so it should be easy to adapt them to s-series mounts if you go that direction. Do yours have side airbags?
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i like what you guys are doing, figure it out, perfect it, and then ill go find some of the same seats :)
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Sweet. That means we're heading in the right direction.
Mine have the side airbags. I got them out of a 2004 car, but was thinking they all had airbags. I'm planning to take the bag out and leave the cover. The first RSX I found had the bag deployed and the cover appeared separate from the rest of it.
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I considered removing the bag as well but wasn't sure if the seat needed it for support. I may give that a try as well but I still need to drop mine off at the upholsterer to get a seam fixed before I go too far.
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I hadn't considered the airbag would be structural. Will find out soon enough. No tears in the cloth definitely sold me on this pair. I think I put off the Si seats so long because they needed upholstery and cushion repairs.
Do you have any pictures or information on how you mounted up your universal mounts?
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I modified a set of manual bucket seat tracks from a second gen - I cut the upper slider section off and then widened the mounting section on the lower brackets by welding a 1" strip of steel onto the outsides (this was my first welding job, be kind!).
(http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/bracket3.jpg) (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/rentedmule/media/bracket3.jpg.html)
It ended up that the tracks were from an earlier second gen so I need to drill one hole in the floor to mount them in the truck. I used the female seat belt end from an earlier second gen and bolted it to the factory seat mount where I knew it would be strong enough.
(http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/rentedmule/S6302573.jpg) (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/rentedmule/media/S6302573.jpg.html)
It was a bit of a PITA to get the sliders bolted to the brackets without bolt heads interfering with the mechanism or nuts interfering with the brackets but it just took some trial and error - it'll be easier for someone with mechanical skill.
The stock floor trim pieces from the donor truck fit fine to cover up the nuts/studs (until I broke them taking the seats out and was too lazy to find replacements...)
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is there any way to remove the plastic caps over the studs without destroying them?
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If there is, I don't know it. I bought a bag of them at the dealer, they were cheap.
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For future reference, I started another thread for RSX seat progress. Airbags are removed without much trouble at all.
http://www.pro-tourings10.com/index.php?topic=2440.msg14173
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Tonight began the teardown to end all teardowns.
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teardown? i want more assembly!
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Wow, the frame hasnt been off that table in... how many years?
Progress!
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Assembly? Well between yesterday and today I tore down both the transmission and the engine to fix and investigate a few things. Transmission has all the internals now and rotates freely.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/522/32512481495_5ed76a5f80_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Rx1Y2M)
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More importantly engine has oil pressure! I pulled off the pan to investigate the o ring, pump, and oil level. Everything checked out good, but when talking to Ryo he mentioned he had to crank his for something like 60 seconds to build any pressure. Also learned from the internet that the front oil galley plug leads right to the oil pump and can be used to pre-fill it to help make the vacuum needed to pull oil out of the pan. 30-40 seconds of cranking and the gauge budged.
Another video of the engine cranking for your viewing pleasure: https://youtu.be/WEv9sLWVjaA
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It has been a productive last couple of weeks and I'm feeling some good momentum. Which is good because I should be working four days/week starting next Monday and that will be less time for everything, but this is still my primary focus with my spare time.
Frame is now notched to recess the lower transmission mounts.
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I then reassembled the engine, fuel system and most of the rest of the chassis in preparation of mating the body to the frame.
The heat shielding for the fuel lines and harness turned out great. I ended up cutting up an aluminum shield from a Silverado and riveting it to a couple small brackets welded to the Y pipe. Still getting a hang of the TIG. Was feeling good about it the other day, but all I seem to be able to make is large puddles, which tends to burn through thinner material. Also used a 4.3 engine mount shield, bolted to the transmission, cut in half for the transmission temperature sensor and reverse lockout solenoid.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/558/32640869595_16d01172f8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RJmZkH)
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I still want to build a shield for the backup lamp switch, but I've got my eye on one of the floor shields from an S10 to cut a small piece out of.
With all of that done I went ahead and gave the engine another test fire. This time with success after getting the PCM setup correctly and plugging the brake booster vacuum port. Dropped the video on youtube: https://youtu.be/xbzgJ-KvbxQ
Al helped me drag the Blazer body inside that night and I'm onto getting the last details on the frame and body done that I won't be able to easily accomplish once they're bolted together.
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Maybe I will get this done before never!
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There is some awesome progress happening here. It was good to hear the engine run.
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The second half of the week felt like slow progress, but once I stepped back and looked at what I accomplished I'm thinking differently.
I pulled out everything I had been storing in the body. Not that much, but it got me sorting and itemizing everything I still have for the truck. Looks like I pitched a good amount of the interior :-\ and I'll be hunting for different carpet without as many holes while replacing what's missing. Got the floor finished up for the most part. Patched the hole I made for the fuel cell filler neck, removed and replaced the driver seat belt bolt hole I had drilled out, and cut out the shifter opening.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2612/32726863811_9827d9f1cb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RRXJqB)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2570/32809670896_048be5f853_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RZh95Y)
The stock Blazer foam seal fits the hole perfectly. Glad I spent the time dropping the body on the chassis to get that lined up beforehand.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/417/32726863481_55c47404e9_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RRXJjV)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/664/32809671356_750004d59a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RZh9dU)
And that means the body met the new chassis for the first time today.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3896/32809671986_2912eefced_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RZh9pL)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2217/32726863201_37853528f0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RRXJf6)
Just need to seam seal my patchwork underneath and that side of the body will be done.
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Nice - super fast progress now!
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Thanks! It's looking like it might actually be ready for the spring roads. If only there weren't so many pot holes >:(
Just for fun I dragged the frame out of the barn by myself
https://youtu.be/vIVQtlvYI1Y
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good progress!!!
Are you keeping CAGS?
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I've got all the wiring and the solenoid for it. I'll start out with it on, but easy enough to turn off with TunerCats. Actually one of the reasons I asked for your Vette tune, so I could transfer the parameters over.
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Wow this has come a long way. Nice work!
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I've got all the wiring and the solenoid for it. I'll start out with it on, but easy enough to turn off with TunerCats. Actually one of the reasons I asked for your Vette tune, so I could transfer the parameters over.
aha, i see.
I have yet to drive anything with cags enabled. I disabled it on the vette before I ever drove it and never hooked up the wiring on the rx7.
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I've not minded it in the few vehicles I've driven with it. Everyone complains about how invasive it is, but unless I'm going real slow off the line it didn't engage for me. And honestly that's kind of when you'd want to be skipping gears in a vehicle with enough torque for it.
On the flip side it is only there to improve CAFE numbers. It is tuned to work under the testing conditions to improve economy for that circumstance in particular. Real world effectiveness could be debated.
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I've not minded it in the few vehicles I've driven with it. Everyone complains about how invasive it is, but unless I'm going real slow off the line it didn't engage for me. And honestly that's kind of when you'd want to be skipping gears in a vehicle with enough torque for it.
On the flip side it is only there to improve CAFE numbers. It is tuned to work under the testing conditions to improve economy for that circumstance in particular. Real world effectiveness could be debated.
You can also tune it to engage whenever you want. Its not just a choice between stock and disabled.
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I haven't made a ton of time to work on the Blazer lately. I've cleared my schedule for most of March and April to improve on that trend.
In the meantime I've been tidying up the body and getting ready for putting the interior back in. All of the floor repair and modifications have been seam sealed and I cleaned up any of the surface rust/peeling paint I found on the floor. I also fitted the shifter foam and a Camaro lower shift boot I picked up from the junkyard. If I weren't using the foam I could cut the hole to fit the Camaro boot exactly and have that fitting more flush, but I'll be running both. It should seal up nicely once I get it screwed down.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/745/33234792355_99199d7a14_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SCQZTi)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3863/33234789505_97a4491793_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SCQZ3a)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3846/33234796155_f646bdacc2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SCR21P)
I got the RSX seat positioned, but haven't tacked in the actual mounts yet. To get it dropped down and fit cross car the way I want - bolt access being an issue at the lower height - I am having to move it outboard, but I had already considered moving the steering column out as well to help with exhaust clearance. That all seems to be working in conjunction and the column bracket looks like it could be easily slotted to move everything over just right. The passenger side I'm not going to mess with dropping the seat as low as possible because they don't have a steering wheel to contend with.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/646/32390207814_96e33d42b0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RmdhjS)
I also took inventory of what I have left of the interior in good condition. I apparently have a decent shopping list for the junkyard on the right.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3798/33106009861_ca547f07ed_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SrsXkt)
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And after a couple afternoons the driver seat is in... I'm definitely just slapping the passenger seat on top of the S10 rails haha It was quite a bit of work to get everything cut down and shaped to take up the small amount of extra height that was available. And the seat still feels an inch or two high compared to a stock Blazer seat. I'm pretty sure with a helmet it will be tight to the headliner. I'm pretty sure if I don't recline the seat a click or two I may touch without the helmet, but I also have a tall torso even though I tend to have plenty of headroom in S trucks.
The brackets did turn out as well as I had hoped. It's all tacked in for now. I'll finish it up with the TIG once I have the passenger seat done too. Hopefully I can get the rails off track for ease of welding and painting. Seems like there are a couple of tabs I can hit with a punch to have it slide apart.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2856/32725691494_7dbe2a5124_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RRRHWf)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2809/32725691524_3b39b67556_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RRRHWL)
This bracket took me quite some time.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2914/33412249532_ebb9d0f580_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SUwvHN)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3692/32725691624_ba3f0cf2f0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RRRHYu)
It had quite the ways to go from the mounting stud, so I tried to box it in as best I could.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3935/32725691724_31649e1ff4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RRRJ1d)
All the bolts are accessible like factory by moving the seat fore & aft.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3682/32725691694_4416e33b18_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RRRHZG)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2867/32725691334_1a79eef580_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RRRHTu)
Also spent some time working through the body harness. After I get the passenger seat mocked up it is ready to be laid out in the truck again and finalized. I'll get the PCM and fuse block mounted up to the transmission tunnel while I'm in the middle of that.
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sad to hear it's still high :(
good work though!
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Another weekend, another seat.
Still had to modify the brackets to keep them at the stock height, but not nearly as much work as the driver side. Basically made a double wide on the inside bracket because of the much wider distance between the rails on the RSX seats. Even with that they're still only sitting halfway on the S10 brackets.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2855/33702571775_df7893fb6a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TmbupH)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2887/33573339851_59aaede470_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/T9L9g6)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3944/32859844354_26e6d09816_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/S4HhUA)
Moved the spring mount for the passenger seat rearward 5" to line up with the RSX spring. It rubs a bit on the bracket, but I might just toss some felt tape on there or similar. Everything works as the seat came from the factory, tilt forward included.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2864/33573334051_a66ef287a5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/T9L7x6)
It is starting to look like a real vehicle again.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3848/33702568805_62bcc4f563_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Tmbtwv)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2865/32859839864_df13ce4811_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/S4Hgzb)
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yay progress!!!
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3 days in the shop this weekend!
Day started out loading up these beauties:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2914/32942623094_69800f9531_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Sc2y9f)
I was then distracted chasing down a rubbing sound the Long Bed has been making in the bottom of 1st and 2nd the last couple weeks. Inner front pads were almost to the backing plates, so swapped those out...
But I did get around to removing the seat tracks and finish welding the new brackets before the day was done. Wasn't too hard to get them off. Had to file off 4 small tabs for each track that are bent down to hold in and stop the bearing cages at the end of travel. After that it was a matter of massaging each of the cages out 1 by 1.
I'm getting much better with the TIG. Some of the welds turned out great. The rest turned out at least OK looking.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3829/33744465686_71c12bbb72_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TpTd1w)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2917/33400596350_a031f1eb28_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/STuMCS)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2941/33655852711_1b3826291b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Th43sB)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3948/32972350923_62025c78b5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SeDVc2)
Tracks are now ready for powdercoat. After some research this last week I'm thinking I will tackle that myself for any of the brackets I have that will fit in the spare oven Al picked up for the workshop.
Wheels and tires will be test fit with the body before the weekend is out.
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looking good! try working on the ramp in and ramp out of the pedal when starting and ending your beads. Looks like your middle-of-bead is looking pretty good but the transitions can use a little more practice :)
nice tire choice!
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Are they NT01's? I've been impressed with the NT05's on the firebird, those should stick!
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I honestly didn't remember what tires they were haha had to go back in the thread and look it up. NT01 is correct. 100 treadware and "for competition use only" as Al kept pointing out and smiling about while he stopped by for some of his own projects at the workshop on Saturday. I'm not sure I'll be able to do a burnout without water once it's all together with these hahaha between the wheels/tires being on and seeing the T56 and oil pan underneath while I had the truck on the lift yesterday just makes it feel like a reality coming together.
I'll work on the ramp in/out more. I've been trying to ramp out already - it feels right - but obviously need to practice both still.
Sunday I started on the mill straightening and cleaning up the edges of the PCM bracket. I was shocked that I removed enough to put a 1/2" fillet in the corners from my less than straight lines. It really makes the part look more precision made. Thanks for the suggestion Al!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2807/33843056695_f312abcd4f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TyAvFv)
Got some color matched paint on all the brackets
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2877/33029784293_23f6e37d19_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SjJh8x)
and moved onto the pedal bracket while the paint was drying. By the end of the night I think I was able to get about 3/4" out of it before running into the cowl on the driver side. Slotted the 4 cowl holes and had to add a slot up underneath too. I looked at slotting the bracket at the body, but with the welded in nuts that wasn't what I wanted to do. Ended up finding a ~6" long end mill that I was able to slot out the thick portion of the bracket that bolts to the body side brackets. Originally tried a typical sized end mill and attack it from both ends, but the top side didn't have enough clearance for the spindle. Sliding the steering column outboard definitely helped with steering shaft clearance.
Also had to get creative mounting this hunk on the Bridgeport table.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2838/33029779803_f534b03d04_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SjJfN8)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3945/33843049975_283f26da29_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TyAtFD)
Called it a night after spending too much time with my mind on the mill.
Monday rolled around and got the brackets welded into the body. If I were to do it again, I'd use the TIG to get more of a spot weld appearance, but I didn't think it would reach from the welding room. The carpet should cover up the less pretty looking MIG welds.
Overall after getting the bare metal painted up I'm happy with how the brackets turned out. Wishing I would have pushed them further forward when I mocked them up originally, but this will do. The TAC module is getting relocated to the Transfer Case Module bracket under the passenger side kick panel.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2881/33029774853_b03910a92d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SjJejM)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3936/33843046095_8437b7ff7f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TyAswK)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2900/33843043865_d0a6fb885d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TyArSi)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2888/33843041855_7667f154f9_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TyArgD)
Lastly started mocking up the wheels and tires. I'm not sure what was different before, but other than the bump stop mounts I've got plenty of space on the inside of the tires in the rear. The axle does seem to be offset toward the passenger side as it touched the bump stop mount on the driver side, but cleared with 5-10mm on the passenger side. I currently have the 3" drop springs on the truck and it is sitting about even with my ride height set to 7" up front. Definitely considering spindles to keep the front geometry and get it down another 2" all around, but I may wait until I have it on the road to make that decision. It would also improve UCA clearance to these wide monsters.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2863/33843039655_9f668e5f24_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TyAqBH)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2908/33029790353_dc4cf97e73_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SjJiW2)
Not quite flush, but still should tuck.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2898/33843065595_0127ffa51f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TyAyjX)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2833/33458819640_fb1439375a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SYDcoG)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2886/32999750224_ddac800ff1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Sh5m3L)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2939/33843036795_1aa83dc489_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TyApLp)
These views bring quite the smile to my face
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2937/33843038565_0a989475bd_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TyAqhV)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3945/33843061515_90c933361d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TyAx7B)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2895/33029795833_70739c7013_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SjJkyv)
Next weekend I'm tackling the body harness and wanting to get the front end together to test fit the 315 up there as well as work on steering stops, bump stops, and end link mounts.
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Looking sick! Those tires/wheels give me inappropriate feelings.
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Looking sick! Those tires/wheels give me inappropriate feelings.
I'm sure the feelings are appropriate, those tires are insane.
Nice looking bracketry Harley. Keep at it.
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im not too worried about you being able to spin those tires. the rx7 had 275 nt01s as well and could spin 2nd gear.
i see the dimple dies are getting good use!
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I'm definitely in the dimple die everything phase, but hoping to soon be in the powdercoat everything phase.
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Brackets look good but its tough to get lower.....Since I have about zero fab skills or fab tools I bought a set of brackets for my seats & with the sliders my head was almost hitting the roof & I am not a tall guy (5.9) so I took my sliders out & mounted my seats to the brackets to loose about a inch but it is def more comfortable.
I talked to the guy about loosing some height on the brackets but I dont see how as they are almost on the floor as is.
I am gonna have my seats out this weekend & I can take a few pics of the brackets if you want.
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Certainly grab those pictures. Always helps to see what other ideas are out there even if I'm not expecting to change it up again for awhile.
It's somewhat impressive how short the stock seats are. I always talk about how much headroom I have in the 2nd generation trucks, but as soon as I swap seats that goes away.
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I think a lot of the 'shortness' of the factory seats comes from them being soft. The unloaded height from the floor to the top of the foam on my blazer seats and my race seats was the same but the latter are so much firmer that I sit a few inches higher. Still plenty of room with my race seats for my helmet to clear the roof with the seat pretty close to the wheel (I'm 6')
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Funny you brought up firmness as I was thinking about it today...My race seats are very firm & I am gonna look at getting some softer foam.
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I moved the needle this weekend. If I can get the plasma cutting kicked off this week and send large parts out for powder coating next week, final assembly will be on the horizon.
Body harness is tidied up after fighting with that for the last month or more.
Started with something like this
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4260/34408213864_2bbc07487b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Uqx6dC)
and progressed through this
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4231/35284569035_4ebc3b97f2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VKYD5x)
and finally got here
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4223/35284568815_de8bb062ce_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VKYD1K)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4253/35284568645_9ffef159f4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VKYCXP)
After replacing the ball joints on my long bed I got the Blazer in the lift, put the front end sheet metal on the truck, and started playing around with the front suspension as I discussed in this thread (http://www.pro-tourings10.com/index.php?topic=2465.0). Didn't actually complete any modifications, but I know my direction better now. Bonus it is starting to look like a complete truck again and I seem to have plenty of steering angle.
Did someone say steamroller? 8)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4263/35284568215_5d8229ea68_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VKYCQp)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4278/35284568505_cbc59af8c4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VKYCVp)
My main goal for the weekend was to get the rollpan mocked up and measure a few things, so I can wrap up the brackets I designed and send everything off for plasma cutting at once.
But the frame was in the way.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4258/35284569295_bcc21fea99_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VKYDa2)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4281/35154520881_7d1dcfa348_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Vyu7hZ)
I had made some templates based off some CAD work I already drew up and went to town with the drill and grinders.
Safety first!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4220/35284569525_1ef7cc3998_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VKYDdZ)
The end result was spot on
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4206/35284571455_b7e64e2dab_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VKYDNg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4286/35284571675_305f06c953_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VKYDS4)
Trimmed about 3/4 of an inch of each side of the pan I've had sitting on the shelf for almost 10 years and it went right in.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4209/35284570795_75486969b6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VKYDAT)
The profile isn't exactly right. My step brother has an English Wheel, so I'm hoping he can help me shape that to the end caps more. Worst case I grab a pipe and try at it myself or cut it short, but I'd rather have it cover a bit more of the underpinnings.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4280/35284571255_a73d798e4d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VKYDJP)
Lastly, goodbye bumpstop brackets and hello wide tires.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4244/34865080520_c493bbc797_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/V7UDKW)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4252/35086596502_bce7979d61_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VstYK1)
Replaced with factory ZQ8 front bump stops underneath the frame.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4206/35284570415_d759fdccb9_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VKYDuk)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4215/35284569915_85cb415846_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VKYDkH)
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Pics didn't show up for me :(
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Everything working from what I can tell on my end, loads up at work, on my phone, and in incognito mode. Do any of the pictures load in the thread? I use the same flickr account for everything.
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pics work no problem for me.
liking the progress!!
FYI i wasn't impressed with the zq8 bumpstops.
I ruined both of mine in about a year
but then again i may be rougher on them than you will be.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13124691_10106473136768843_6763900644931742467_n.jpg?oh=f9fb2bc0d376780122d796aac53ffe50&oe=59A562DC)
I don't remember if the area of the frame where that bumpstop is is full boxed or not, but I would add a doubler plate underneath to help spread the load.
That's a pretty concentrated load there (lots of pressure!) where the original bracket thingy spread it a lot more.
don't want to ford raptor the frame!
this may not be the best example, but if you cut the roll pan a bit you will
1. be able to shape the ends easier without an english wheel
2. look more sporty (for the styling trends now)
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w157/ThePass_photos/The%20Miata/April%202011%20Car%20Updates/DSC_1152.jpg)
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The bumpstops are right at the location the boxing ends. I've gone back and forth on adding support there.
Option 3 is ditch the roll pan and build a diffuser to fill the entire space.
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Seems all I do on this truck is grind lately. Bye bye end link tab.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4195/35447444855_f1afbd6114_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W1nqok)
Front control arms are 80% done. Need to drill holes for the bumpstop bracket and finish welding it off the truck. The end link and steering stop brackets turned out great and I'm fairly impressed with how much steering angle I'm seeing with the wide tires.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4251/35447446045_f5385c1b7a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W1nqJR)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4231/35060389830_a8f7c2734d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VqaEpQ)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4215/34605737644_fd5a4eca60_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UHZsa3)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4215/35060389040_6e76087be4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VqaEbd)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4232/35060388740_8347f2ebf0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VqaE63)
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Lots to update and more to come as I'm off of work this entire week, but after I went to disassemble my rear calipers and found the pins and pistons seized last weekend I spent some time in front of the computer.
So this is happening now...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4255/34855697124_0470ff7922_b.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4218/35566200881_09a396839b_b.jpg)
I'll get more progress and pictures up at some time this week, but time to get back to the workshop.
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Previously invisible pics magically appeared for me - man those tires look amazing! I race with a guy who has a C5 ZO6 and last year I was managing to stay even or just behind him when we were both on 275's. He moved to 315 R-comps this year and now he's in another league. Fat tires all around FTW (literally).
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Started out the week by trying to complete my pile of parts for powder coat.
First up was control arms.
More picture porn and details in my Control Arm Modification Thread (http://www.pro-tourings10.com/index.php?topic=2465.msg14534#msg14534)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4205/35448394110_25c60cb9d7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W1shyN)
Next up was my fabricated lower rad support. Decided it didn't have enough holes. Peanut butter is a great lube. Yum yum.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4262/35667630222_6388d43d2b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WkPVPL)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4261/35667629772_e18662cf94_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WkPVG1)
And then dimple die the everything.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4286/35667628392_bfd2c76701_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WkPVhd)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4259/35667629242_e228e7e3a5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WkPVwS)
Result is fancy. If only I was going for the rat rod look this would be perfect as is.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4283/35667627492_a1c6b12782_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WkPV1G)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4289/35667627092_1c8902c19f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WkPUTN)
Threw it all in a pile and dropped off to the powdercoater Thursday morning.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4266/35448374670_2407ef2b8a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W1sbMC)
I'm really excited to get those parts back. Will be able to start reassembly of some of the major components.
I whipped up a basic bracket to mount a 1st gen washer bottle to the fender using the ABS module mounting points.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4264/35448373820_ab3dfc1e8a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W1sbwY)
Fit really nice at first.... let's see if anyone can figure out where I went wrong before I post the obvious pictures.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4207/35704480111_c829549a73_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wp5N1F)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4230/35448372500_08b763890e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W1sb9d)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4281/35448372110_9f92b6e23c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W1sb2u)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4208/35448371910_3e497ac48d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W1saY3)
Round 2 took some height out of the bracket. Not quite as stiff, but everything fits with clearance now. And as often is the case the second attempt looks even better.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4259/35667621252_42bab1e6f4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WkPTa7)
Dimple die the everything.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4280/35667620902_f0f8faceeb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WkPT45)
There we go. Everything can fit again.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4277/35667620452_d97f0f4ae4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WkPSVj)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4279/35448369960_03e7822a3f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W1saoq)
If anyone with an automatic 2nd gen would like a mounting bracket for a 1st gen washer reservoir that mounts in place of your ABS module let me know. I'll send it your way for only the cost of shipping. I added 2 more holes to try mounting the reservoir further forward in the hopes of clearing the clutch master cylinder, but that didn't work either. It also went under the dimple die knife and I will powdercoat it for you too.
You can also see the tidied up body harness underhood in those installation pictures. Body harness is 100% done! No exceptions left undone.
Started on reassembling the interior. Doors are ready for door panels. Firewall is ready for the HVAC box after I route and tape the engine harness into the cab permanently. That's all that needs to be done before I can install the dash even though that needs some wiring work too, but nowhere near as crazy as the body or engine harness.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4213/35448368380_8e3dd47363_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W1s9Vb)
Pedals are all in and hooked up. I've got all the components to build my steering shaft. I coated the areas of the frame I had previously cut and/or modifed and also dropped off the driveshaft to get shortened. They said it could be done today! I'm starting to hit that point of visible progress and with the driveshaft a test drive is not far away.
I lined myself up with a 4 day weekend this week. Will be back at the fun soon enough.
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I could use one of the brackets but ideally it would need to clear a clutch master when I do the manual swap. That's pretty slick though - love the dimple dies!
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I definitely thought of you and Ryo when I realized I had an extra for someone, but quickly remembered you're both running manuals. I'd offer to make you one for the manual because I know how to do it easily enough, but won't be sparing the couple hours it would take until the Blazer is on the road.
The only drawback to the second design is neither the master nor the washer reservoir can be installed/removed without pulling the fender. The studs make it impossible to pull off the bottle and there isn't enough room for the master to rotate the 45° for removal haha Both of those rarely fail, so I'm not worried about it and I'm not afraid to pull fenders or most front sheet metal on these trucks. Much less under my Blazer hood too.
And almost forgot the most exciting part. EURO STYLE TAIL LAMPS!! ;D Put together the harness for each side and bolted up the housings. Bulbs are on the way to finish that up permanently.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4289/35673212692_b9143c0726_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wmjxif)
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haha oops.
looks good!
I may steal that concept when i decide to go solid front axle and remove ABS
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Feel free to steal it. I've proven it works and it can only improve from here.
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Ive got to point out that the taillights arent just euro style, theyre the elusive export oem lights. Cool to finally see them mounted on a truck.
Also cool to keep seeing progress.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-japJlmQmv20/Uvh78JHESaI/AAAAAAAAEq0/ZBx0abUq9pk/s1600/dimple-die-all-the-things.jpg)
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(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-japJlmQmv20/Uvh78JHESaI/AAAAAAAAEq0/ZBx0abUq9pk/s1600/dimple-die-all-the-things.jpg)
This happens about once a day or more in the workshop.
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I dig it! All the way! I just picked up a 04 Extreme Blazer and I debating on if I should pro-tour it or drag race it. What are you going to do with those all clear taillights?
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Thanks!
Made some good progress last weekend, but haven't taken the time to upload pictures again. Targeting next Wednesday to have it on the road, so focusing on that for now.
Clear tails are up for sale. I actually have 2 sets. If you want them let me know.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f293/2nd-gen-blazer-all-clear-tails-801777/
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I'll shoot you a PM. How are you planning to use the Vette brakes? Kore3 components?
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I designed my own bracket. I won't have to modify the spindles and can use a standard hex bolt instead of the allen heads needed for the Kore3.
I haven't made up my bolt spacer, which is what allows it all to clear the spindle, but this should give you an idea. It's quite similar to the Kore3 brackets I'm sure as there really isn't much wiggle room to package the parts in the space available.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4305/35696671070_f45d9080a1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WooLE3)
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I spent the last two weekends trying to push hard to get the truck back together for this week. Didn't happen, but after letting the dust settle a bit I made some real good progress. I can count the fabrication projects left on one hand and those are always the big hurdles for me.
The calipers showed up after a bit of worry due to shady eBay practices. Shady, but expensive for the seller. I won't complain at length because they did show up brand new in box as advertised. 20" monitor is for size reference. Tese beauties are monstrous.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4308/35316987994_8cbbe6c357_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VNQN77)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4325/35316987864_b5bcd1dc5e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VNQN4S)
Dropped off the driveshaft with the requested measurements on a Friday and they had it ready well before Monday was over. Fits great, only charged me $180 to shorten the aluminum and replace the U Joints with $80 in spicer parts. I'll throw a shout out to CCI Driveline (http://www.ccidriveline.com) in Casco, Michigan for being the easiest part of this project by far.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4314/35316988434_a964552834_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VNQNeG)
With a couple U joints and some 1"DD tubing I replaced the factory steering joints and shaft from the bottom of the column to the steering box. The tulip joint had some slop and I wanted to gain as much clearance as possible while maintaining enough collapse in the column in case of an accident.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4328/35349049023_0a7967f8b7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF7Jt)
I opened up the tulip joint, removed the shaft, and cut just the end off of it. It is a solid 3/4" DD, but also has a spring integrated into the other end to keep the joint tight.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/35987735012_6616d0a0a6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WQ7xPS)
I chucked up the 1" DD U Joint in the mill and modified the end to accept the factory bolt. Because the Tulip joint is a bolt through design the set screws have nothing to tighten against and I like this much better than the set screws anyway. It tightens up to the steering column very well.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4296/35987728342_fe2b2c300d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WQ7vQS)
All that was left was cutting about an 8" section of 1" DD from the factory shaft and a 10" section of new 1"DD shaft. Welded the 3/4" DD into the 8" section before bolting it to the 3/4" 30 spline to 3/4" DD joint and bolted the 10" into the upper 1" DD joint.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4300/35349048603_d2545b768e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF7Be)
The 3/4" section is located as the shaft passes by the manifold for maximum clearance and I have 4-5" of collapsible length.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4325/35765063130_fc7c6f31a1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wurieu)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4325/35765063130_fc7c6f31a1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wurieu)
Parts list is as follows:
- 10" of 1" DD Shaft
- 1" DD to 1" DD U Joint (http://r.ebay.com/eY5f6D)
- 1" DD to 3/4" 30 Spline U Joint (http://r.ebay.com/wKz3dX)
I didn't consider that I already had a length of the factory shaft, so I ended up buying 3ft of the 1" DD Shaft. Cost $50 for just that, but for anyone replicating this in the future they can save some coin by recycling what they already have. I had good luck finding the components on eBay.
Ordered up an oil pressure sensor adapter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NY4VJL8) to add in a second sensor port, so I can run both the 5.3 sensor for the PCM and an S Truck sensor for the gauge. I originally had my oil temperature sensor in the oil cooler adapter port and was trying to fit the oil pressure sensor into the oil galley right next to it as the oil galley plug and oil pressure sensor use the same thread pattern. There just wasn't enough space for the sensor there, so I had to try something different. I drew up plans for my own adapter block, but Al found this piece for $20 on Amazon.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4309/36023106321_cfc4ea20f5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WTeQu2)
They have several varieties with different port combinations, but not exactly what I wanted. As shown in the picture it wasn't quite deep enough to take the temperature sensor either, so I modified a pipe fitting as a spacer and had to clearance the adapter block as needed for the extra length. It all fit fine in the end, but I will have to check and make sure it isn't leaking. Pipe fitting should be able to seal though.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4327/35765062990_185ba1bc85_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wuric5)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4296/35349047303_a52d479f85_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF7dP)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4307/35765062920_b04280bbd6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WuriaS)
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The powdercoat was wrapped up last week. They did a good job as well and at $390 for everything I am more than pleased.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4296/35316988184_aecc362587_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VNQNao)
Next up on the bridgeport is the front brake brackets. This caused several frustrations with tools and a few other things, but all of my dimensions have been spot on once I read them right. First bracket is scrap due to the drawings printing with 6's that look like 8's.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4313/35765062820_c5dd31b0eb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wuri99)
Fly cut the plates flat and to the required thickness. Ended up having to use the boring head as an impromptu fly cutter as the actual cutter had allen keys that wouldn't clamp the bit after I tried to adjust it wider and cover the entire work piece at once.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4317/35349046463_2d19fb94f9_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF6Yk)
On my second attempt after correcting my mislabeled dimension I clamped both brackets together before doing the major drilling and shaping. After aligning them to the mill head I rough measured my first hole as the hole relationship is the only dimension needing extreme accuracy. Used the table markings from there to position and drill the other 3 holes. The two larger clearance holes I had to bore out to size as I don't have any drill bits larger than a 1/2" in the shop and the step bits don't have large enough steps for the depth I was drilling.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4301/35765062720_4acb34c649_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wuri7q)
I then started the tap using the chuck for the two outer holes for bolting the bracket to the spindle. M14x2 is the factory bolt thread and I was able to reuse the original bolts.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4293/35349045693_6017406dc0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF6K4)
For the rest I cut out my printed drawing, traced it onto the block, and hogged away as needed. The straight cuts I did on the mill and added the blends using the belt sander. Bolting the parts together made it easy to do everything at once.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4323/35987732972_abdea798d5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WQ7xdG)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4330/35349044953_d5c704007c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF6wi)
The bolt spacers I welded together using various tube and sheet I found around the shop. You'll see later that they are not strong enough to take the 130 ft/lbs specified for the caliper bolts, so I'll be cutting some thick washers out of aluminum the next time I'm out at the shop for a quick and easy replacement. Everything bolts up exactly as designed, though.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4304/35987732412_bbb7a45a7d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WQ7x43)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4316/35349044373_52d69b0a51_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF6mi)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4324/35987731962_b191111615_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WQ7wVh)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35349043673_8c9a984969_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF69e)
In between assembling the front suspension and laying out the leaf springs for reassembly I prepped and powdercoated the steering shaft and brake brackets. Considering it is my first shot at it after watching Al take his first shot the week before I'm quite happy with the outcome. Coverage isn't great, but that is more a factor of poor lighting than anything else. I'll just be sure to do it in the daylight in the future.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35987731422_0110fc4a81_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WQ7wKY)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4324/35349042663_414cae4b92_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF5QP)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4293/35987730952_f0a04211c3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WQ7wBS)
I assembled all of the steering shaft components, so that they're ready to go in once I install the column.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4307/35987730572_78316219ac_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WQ7wvj)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4324/35349039733_3240bcb2e6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF4Yi)
For some reason I took lots of glamour shots of the steering column.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/35987729552_ccfddf4873_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WQ7wcJ)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4327/35349040723_f8f2355c46_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF5gn)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4303/35349041473_d73e73ea89_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF5ui)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4322/35987730102_21617ed44d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WQ7wnd)
Passenger front suspension corner got assembled too. I would have done both sides, but couldn't find my second thrust bearing for the coilovers, so had to make an Amazon order that is arriving tonight. It's looking like a true pro-touring truck again.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35349051913_32e2245a8e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF8Ai)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4319/35765063530_057a86e660_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wurimo)
These brakes look mighty nice.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4294/35987728952_ed744e58c9_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WQ7w2o)
You can see the bolt spacer deforming in these photos too. Onto the next concept!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4301/35349038333_1923d21bd3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF4ya)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4319/35349037023_15627c8f32_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF4az)
Last hurdle of the weekend was the rear leaf spring solid bushing for the sliders. I had read before that it would need to be turned down to fit, but when I stopped by Ryo's to use his lathe we determined that if we removed the old bushing sleeve it would fit fine without getting turned down. And it fit great with a bit of hammering it in. Fast forward to Sunday night while I'm laying out the leaves for reassembly. I go to see how much hammering I'm going to have to do to get the bushing in and the answer is well less than 0. It dropped right in with space to spare. Turns out the rust build up was significant enough that it changed a 1.7" diameter to something more like 1.6" and with the sand blasting done that tight fit had disappeared.
After sleeping on it I took some more measurements. Bushings are supposed to be 1.625 and are measuring around 1.61-1.62. Leaf is measuring around 1.68, so I need to take up an extra .06-.07. Found some sheet metal that was a touch over .03, which when wrapped around the bushing increases the diameter by .06. Circumference with a diameter of 1.6 is about 5.1 and the leaf spring is 2.5 wide, so I cut up two tokens of the sheet I found at 2.5" x 5" and hand bent them around the bushings. Added in some lube and was able to press everything together for a solid fit.
Front bushings got pressed in as well and I bolted everything together with new bolts. The vice did a great job bending the clip back around the top spring with a rag on the jaws to protect the coating.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4302/35765063470_9bfece505c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wurikm)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4324/35349050793_2a19d6ca6a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF8fZ)
Leaves are now on the chassis and it is supporting its own weight on 3 of the 4 corners. Threw on the chassis parts I had powdercoated too. After I bolt up the exhaust and route the front brake line the body is ready to be bolted on for good.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35349050093_6b6b5c4381_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRF83V)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4299/35765063270_7035b6d0b7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WurigU)
This is the current ride height with the 650 lb springs. Once I get the front end back together as well as drive it a bit well settle it more, but I threw my stack of highly calibrated stack of wood under the front cross member and I'm within a 1/4" of what I was aiming for; control arm hard points are just about flat. Definitely interested in swapping in drop spindles, but this will work to get the truck on the road again.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4298/35349578463_8a20b2258d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VRHQ7K)
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good progress!
parts look good!
how thick is that caliper bracket?
maybe it just looks thin because the caliper is huge but it looks a little light to me.
did you get the OE rotors which mean a left hand rotor on both sides? (vanes are going the wrong way)
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Bracket ended up about 11.5mm CAD data said 12mm I ended up a bit short of that after everything, but once bolted up the caliper wants to be a bit more inboard (thinner yet) to be perfectly centered. Kore3 says their bracket is 3/8" thick, which is about 9.5mm, so I'm in the range of what else is out there albeit that doesn't mean what else out there is right. Only way to go thicker would be to space out the rotor.
Is that in the range of thin in your mind?
GM only lists one part number in their catalog for the front rotors and one number for the rear. 2 of my coworkers stopped by on Sunday and we talked about the directional vanes briefly, so I checked to make sure.
Corvette forum seems to agree too
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/autocrossing-and-roadracing/3118151-directional-vanes-on-stock-c6-z06-rotors.html
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yea 1/2" was my 'feel safe' ballpark so you aren't too far off.
quick glance at the pictures made it look like 1/4"ish
3/8" would make me feel a little scared too with zero analysis.
in your case, since you are using a bolt-on spacer, spacing the rotor isn't a big deal if you were to go that route.
you can make a donut and tap it and bolt the rotor to it if you wanted to.
yup, i came up with the same result when i had the c6z51 brakes.
this is why corvettes are cheap.
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Great work Harley. Cant wait to see it in person.
I dont think you mentioned our discovery along the way about the budget fixed caliper option this opens up.
Turns out C6 shares a mounting pattern with 2015+ Colorado front brakes. These come with 4pot fixed calipers stock (http://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/chevrolet/na/us/english/index/vehicles/2017/trucks/colorado/gallery/exterior/01-images/2017-colorado-gal-ext-09.jpg?imwidth=960). Rock auto lists them for $75ea new no core. They're rough cast, not polished and not powdercoated, but also 25% the cost of the corvette calipers.
Also, glad you sprang for the big ones, and in yellow at that. They're monsters ;D
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Looks awesome!
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in your case, since you are using a bolt-on spacer, spacing the rotor isn't a big deal if you were to go that route.
you can make a donut and tap it and bolt the rotor to it if you wanted to.
Wouldn't need to be more than a few mm to get it perfectly centered and stay in the 1/2" plate range.
The calipers are quite tight to my wheels, so I might not be able to shave much if any off my 25mm spacers. Any change, in my case, would likely push the wheels outward.
I dont think you mentioned our discovery along the way about the budget fixed caliper option this opens up.
Turns out C6 shares a mounting pattern with 2015+ Colorado front brakes. These come with 4pot fixed calipers stock (http://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/chevrolet/na/us/english/index/vehicles/2017/trucks/colorado/gallery/exterior/01-images/2017-colorado-gal-ext-09.jpg?imwidth=960). Rock auto lists them for $75ea new no core. They're rough cast, not polished and not powdercoated, but also 25% the cost of the corvette calipers.
Don't forget they should fit inside 17" wheels too.
The Colorado uses a 26mm wide rotor which happens to be the same as the rear Corvette rotors. And the C6 Z51 rear rotors are the right diameter to use the same bracket bolt pattern as I did for the Z06 calipers & rotors. Plus they're cross drilled too, so your rotor will look just as fancy. The bracket would have to be 8mm wide instead of the 12 I am using unless you spaced out the rotors.
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Spent Monday tidying up the last few things to get the body bolted to the frame.
Started by lifting the engine and transmission up out of the way, so I could snake the front passenger brake line under the engine. It runs on the back side of the cross member from the factory, but the oil pan resides there now with no extra clearance for a brake line. I was able to rebend the factory line and overall happy with the results. It now runs on top of the cross member and I am using an S10 hose bracket to clear my wheels. Similar to the situation I had on the Isuzu with the Blazer brackets; wide wheels crash right into them. Too bad custom tubing is pricey or I might have been tempted to design something up and send it over to In-Line Tube.
It looks like it is touching, but 1/4" or more of clearance on the driver side of the pan.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4330/36334706875_30c12d6ab9_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XmLStn)
Plenty of space to play on the passenger side.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4328/35938177550_7c8a61fa95_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WKJy7S)
Had to play with this area quite a bit as I lost some of the length due to the original sharp bends in the Blazer lines. I wasn't able to completely straighten them without breaking the line.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4298/36334706765_a8be3d11a6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XmLSrt)
I had been chatting about the project with one of my coworkers and it pushed me over to welding in a flex joint. I just happened to have one I never used on the Audi, so it was a quick and easy job before bolting down the body. I liked how clean/smooth/pretty the y pipe was before, but this gives the play needed to easily bolt up both sides and should reduce some of the stress on the exhaust.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/35938177150_5a6926e1eb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WKJxZY)
Some final shots before marrying the body. In the background you can also see I got the second pair of wheels/tires recently.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4294/35938177430_92c2f1522f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WKJy5N)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4391/36334706615_f6872d0d86_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XmLSoT)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/36334706495_425753c421_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XmLSmP)
I also stopped by the shop last night for a couple hours. Made my new caliper bolt spacers and assembled the driver suspension corner. Was going to get the wheel on and on the ground, but had an early meeting this morning and still had 30 minutes of work left after pushing later than I really intended to.
Turned this cutoff piece of aluminum from one of my earlier projects into swiss cheese. I drilled 2 of the spacers over the edge as I needed a flat portion to clear the spindle on the lower bolt. I nailed it perfectly on my first guess, so didn't have to tune it in with the sander.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4367/35938176910_1e2d7e80e8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WKJxVQ)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/36334706325_1b69e13091_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XmLSiT)
Definitely will work better than my flimsy first attempt using what was essentially sheet metal.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4397/36334706175_6ed8b698be_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XmLSgi)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4374/35526094463_01af75be2a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W8jwb4)
Everything fits great now and torques to the factory specification of 130 ft-lbs.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4372/36334706035_b05a7d6293_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XmLSdT)
Driver side is ready for the rotor and caliper. Just have to load up the caliper with pads and bolt it on.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4301/35938177740_5b02a675dc_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WKJyb9)
I think I'll clean up the engine accessories and get the water pump modified for a front outlet next, so I can get the front end sheet metal bolted on. I need to get the full weight of the vehicle to start setting ride height and torque down the control arm bolts.
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Friday evening got the driver side caliper on and decided to finish getting the interior together. Moving toward steering column installation, so I know everything to avoid with brake line routing. It's finally supporting its own weight on all 4 corners.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4396/36275740372_73101bfbf0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XgyDMw)
Back at it Sunday. Started by cleaning up the carpets and getting the shifter and boot installed. Realized I would need to pull the boot to get at the shift handle in the future, so quickly cleaned that up and laid on some powdercoat. It's the Hurst handle from my NV3500 short throw, but had seen better days and I'm not the biggest fan of chrome.
The freebie powdercoat oven does a darn decent job. The temperature can be all over the place, but we've got an external temperature probe to keep an eye on it. Everything gets casters out in the workshop.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4436/36047236450_8acdc32333_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WVnvwJ)
Friday night I had laid out the rubber shift boot/seal, drilled holes and added seam sealer where it touched off to the sheet metal for a bit of extra sealing surface. I got this boot from a 5 speed 4th gen Camaro and it fits around the stock Blazer shifter foam just right. If I'd had the boot before I cut the hole and repainted I might have cut the hole to fit it rather than the foam, but it all came together anyway.
Shift handle and boot installed. Don't mind the 5 speed knob as I haven't found a replacement knob I like yet. This will do for now.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4367/36275740242_cb944320ba_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XgyDKh)
Was looking back and realized I had no good shots of the S10e/EV1/GMT400 Diesel pedal I used with the drive by wire setup. Packages like factory maybe because it pretty much is a factory option.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4428/36047236310_674a92e1fc_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WVnvuj)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4413/36275740202_94cbeb8806_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XgyDJA)
Dropped in the carpet after vacuuming and lots of carpet cleaning solvent. Still super stained, but makes for a good practice piece to hack up and fit around my new shifter hole, PCM, and fuse block. I also didn't realize until the next day that my flash was on instead of auto, so several of these next pictures are a bit washed out.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/36047236170_b6d8391073_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WVnvrU)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/36275740092_bbd9d50ff6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XgyDGG)
TAC module is installed on the factory Transfer Case Shift Control Module bracket. The bolt pattern is so close it is silly, but with some creative positioning I was able to bolt it in with the wires pointing in the direction I'd like. It fits nicely underneath the kick panel.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4426/36047236100_9546cef1e4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WVnvqG)
Blower box and BCM still fit.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4345/36275739942_4594198ac5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XgyDE7)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4409/36047235990_ee177c895c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WVnvoN)
I had put the driver seat rails back on to test out which shift handle would work best. The Pro 5.0 was still a bit short much like the factory Camaro shifter and handle, so I stuck with the Hurst. Got the passenger seat together too and bolted them both in. Used a rubber mallet more than I'd like to admit in getting all the bearings back on the rails.
You can also see the passenger door panel that got installed at some point this weekend.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4341/36275739812_c66bbc3724_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XgyDBS)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/36047235880_8e18bdd101_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WVnvmU)
Seats feel great and with the short throw shift mechanism I'm quite happy with the location and throw of the shifter. Definitely didn't sit in the driver seat at multiple points this weekend making engine and shifting noises.
Whipped up a quick bracket to bolt in with the battery mount and hold the starter solenoid and vehicle fuse. Forgot to add a step up from the floor to help clear the carpet, but I'll want to powdercoat this piece in the future, so it will come back out at some point and I can modify from there. Probably add dimple dies too.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4427/36275739632_1bc1b4977f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XgyDyL)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4424/36306924041_ac3e1cc005_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XjjtAZ)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4370/36306923821_ab6411d246_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xjjtxc)
Threw in the rear carpet and bolted in the battery mount. Starter cable is the thick guy going off into the carpet on the right.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/36047237350_0184f240ec_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WVnvNf)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4438/36275740862_83e2030b34_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XgyDVY)
Added the battery and wired it into the truck. Made some sparks, so it must be grounded. The whole package should fit in a battery box to make me compliant with most track rules. Not exactly sure what I'll do if I need an external cut out switch.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4365/36047237170_21d841ecda_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WVnvK9)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4441/36047237050_769a3d8668_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WVnvH5)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4432/36275740562_8b3ef6d35c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XgyDQN)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4342/36275740492_5398abb26b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XgyDPA)
I'm realizing that nothing is sacred on this truck. Everything is going under the knife.
I present to you exhibit Belt Buckle:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4336/36306925441_547dc3f0f2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xjju28)
The RSX buckle doesn't have the extra piece in the middle like the Blazers. Talking to a friend who works as an Engineer in seating and restraints I got the impression that the extra feature is really just a way to index different buckles in the vehicle and isn't a structural part. So now the Blazer buckles match the RSX buckles and I can use the latch attached to the RSX seats after some quick machine work and filing.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4427/36047236750_ffba81294b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WVnvBU)
Finished off my Monday night getting the accessory bracket cleaned up and bolted back to the engine. Prepped the water pump mounting surface while I was at it and that could actually be the next step even though last week I thought I'd be doing that before everything else I did this weekend.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4354/36275739562_6ebe089914_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XgyDxy)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/36047236610_697620e194_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WVnvzu)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4350/36275740312_982c632195_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XgyDLu)
Also tore the wiring harness out of the dash, so I can get that modified before bolting the dash in. So close to having functional steering and an engine that can start with the ignition switch.
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Started out the weekend with the IP harness. About halfway through I realized I had a pickup harness on the shelf that was already closer to what I wanted, but that's what happens when I've been collecting parts for years instead of doing anything with them.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/36419517162_d18ed4ac38_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XugxBG)
After a couple hours it doesn't look much different, but pulled out the extra circuits and added in wiring for a switch panel to include the line lock, fan override, and quad high beams. I'm still not exactly sure how that will come together, but I've got a couple ideas on paper and all the circuits to pull them off.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4370/36450229931_c104241911_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYXsc)
And the evidence that something did happen:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4393/36419516822_3796f9610e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XugxvQ)
While I had the terminals and crimp tools out I made a quick conversion harness for the RSX seat belt switch.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4408/36450230201_09977958fc_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYXwR)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4410/36419517032_78c63af676_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xugxzs)
Once I hooked up the battery it functioned like factory.
I'm using the same Alpine component set in this truck as I did in the Isuzu. Mid bass in the doors and tweeters mounted in the factory tweeter plates. Clamped the plates on the Bridgeport, enlarged the holes with the 2" hole saw, and the tweeters pretty much screw right in.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4433/36450229771_9d665d38e9_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYXpr)
I don't expect it to sound as good as the isuzu without the sound deadening treatment, but will be better than the factory speakers.
With the speakers and harness done I put the dash back together. It still installs even with the PCM in place, but I did have to unbolt the fuse block. I also had to give it a bit of a shove toward the driver side as my modified steering bracket still locates the dash cross car. It went together and the doors close, so the shift toward the driver side wasn't the worst decision I've made.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4403/36541733746_869574707a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XF4Wmb)
I recently learned of a trick to reverse plastic panel fading, so I gave it a shot on my driver door panel. I was originally planning to hunt down a set of 02+ panels with the microfiber cloth to better match the seats as my panels had some issues, but after grabbing a replacement armrest for the passenger side and learning of this trick. I'll save my time and money unless I find a really mint pair.
Here's typical white sun fading found on many of these panels. It's actually not terrible on mine. Definitely seen far worse.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4428/36419515392_be881a87ef_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xugx6b)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4354/36450233281_19d4152fdb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYYrX)
Apply heat slowly moving around the area until the plastic remelts and changes back to the original color.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4432/36450233301_cdf49aa6cd_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYYsi)
I melted it a bit more than I should have, so it is a bit more glossy than the rest of the panel and some of the grain washed out, but definitely less worn looking than before. Next time I will turn down the heat settings instead of maxing them out and go more slowly.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/36450229491_8650dcf955_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYXjB)
It didn't take me much more than 5 minutes from start to clean up. There are YouTube videos on the process if you want to know more.
Steering column is in too now. Really starting to look like a complete vehicle on the inside. Wheel is just set on the splines for now as I have a new column switch on the way.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/36541734616_c633d44ab9_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XF4WBb)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/36450230981_a0c1b68194_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYXLi)
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/36419517802_81e006d99d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XugxNJ)
With the column in I also installed the steering shaft. Lots of room to the manifolds, but looks like I need a longer or right angle spark plug wire for the rear cylinder.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4400/36450232591_fee981e010_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYYf4)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4407/36450232581_ba9b318dea_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYYeT)
Decided to crimp the power wires and hook up the battery for a test power up. The only harness remaining is the forward lighting, so it was a bit nerve wracking adding 12v to all these wires for the first time, but nothing exploded and no fires in the meantime.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/36450230321_0e488451d1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYXyV)
Half of these lights are no longer needed. Time to start pulling bulbs. Also don't mind the temp gauge. Not sure how that happened.
The only electrical issue I've found so far is the tail lights. The fog light is the only non functional circuit right now and that's because I have the wrong fuse block installed, but the passenger side brake lights aren't as bright as the driver side. Will need to investigate that the next time I'm out at the shop.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/36450230441_c85c909a3b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYXAZ)
The 4.3 brake booster vacuum line isn't quite long enough to reach the 5.3 port. I did some looking around and the V8 Trailblazer seemed like the best fit. Both the SS and the 5.3 version use the same hose, so I ordered one up with one of my orders from the dealer and had good results.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/36450233091_73ed87bdb8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYYoF)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4380/36450232971_104e10ea25_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYYmB)
It doesn't exactly fit like it was made for it, but no one will ever be able to tell now that it is installed.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/36450232841_8f2e57b1b3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYYjn)
I only had to cut off about this much from the engine side.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/36450232771_52f1a59d46_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYYia)
Next up I tackled the water pump. I'm not a huge fan of the truck pump inlet location. Fortunately the older pumps have a boss in the same location as the LS1 pumps and a few people have pioneered the conversion.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1630719-truck-waterpump-converted-f-body-3.html
Al and I had a spare pump we did some practice on and had varying luck removing the hose barb. We ended up using heat, but it was a fine line between warming it up and melting it. I was already needing to bore out the hole 50 thousandths for the freeze plug I was replacing it with, so I decided to just remove the barb in that fashion instead of risking another meltdown.
Step 1: Sawzall
Bye Bye Nipple
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4369/36450232341_09d325f40f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYYaK)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4351/36419516072_b8851a1fee_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XugxhU)
Step 2: Level water pump and bore hole to size
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4376/36541735346_65c85f7b1a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XF4WPL)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/36450232031_c5537c5d75_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYY5p)
Step 3: Drill, ream, and tap front boss.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4394/36419519532_dbb50e93ab_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xugyjy)
This was a bitch. Al had trouble on the practice piece without the ream and I was still using a 4 ft breaker bar to get the threads in deep enough. Large size NPT taps are no joke, but I never found a great solution on the internet even though some people "do them all the time"
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4429/36450231851_5bcf96c219_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYY2i)
Step 5: Slap in the new barb and freeze plug with sealant
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Went to install the water pump and was only able to find one of the old gaskets. It was also falling apart. Should have dug those up last week, so that's another part on order.
Bolted it on anyway to see how my hose selection fit. Top hose fits great. Bottom hose is too big on the radiator size, but that may be something I have to deal running the radiator I am. Found another hose on the shelf that clamped down decent to the radiator and I was able to squeeze it onto the water pump. I'm going to look around some more as I'm not completely happy with it, but I do have a solution.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4384/36450231541_5762a38351_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYXVX)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4376/36450231401_6d4bf79b43_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYXTx)
Grabbed the power steering hoses from the 4.3 and they bolted on without much fuss. Got creative with routing, but good clearance to everything so far.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4412/36419518052_30454467f2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XugxT3)
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Last thing for the weekend I started tackling the brake lines from the master to the rest of the truck.
First up was to mount my line lock and prop valve. It's actually coming together quite nicely as the line lock will also serve as a T for the front brakes and I whipped up a bracket to mount both valves right on the booster. I'll need to space out the line lock as there isn't a ton of room behind the bracket to the brake booster, but I have a couple ideas already. Will add some dimple dies and powdercoat once I have it finalized.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4416/36450230811_8c5a80efd3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XwYXHn)
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Mockup of the original lines was looking optimistic without needing too many bends.
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Great progress. Those front tires do it for me every time I see them...
The heat gun trick works reasonably well - I've already done all of the faded outside trim on the old Jimmy and it definitely helped a lot. I only melted one small section on my first try. Oops.
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Great progress. Those front tires do it for me every time I see them...
Me too. The back pair may be one of the last things to go on the truck. I've been dragging my feet on the machine work for the rear calipers, but everything else is coming together quite well, so I'm just letting it happen haha
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good progress!
as for the water pump, you already bored it, should have just shoved in the original neck.
I've had good luck just heating up the WP and the loctite releases and aluminum expands just enough for the neck to basically fall out.
im taking notes on the brake booster line and hopefully the coolant line selection carries over to my swap well too
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good progress!
as for the water pump, you already bored it, should have just shoved in the original neck.
I've had good luck just heating up the WP and the loctite releases and aluminum expands just enough for the neck to basically fall out.
im taking notes on the brake booster line and hopefully the coolant line selection carries over to my swap well too
I had tried that with the junk pump originally before melting it trying to get the neck to release.
This sounded good on that thread harley linked above. We own the tap and ream tool now if you want to go this route too.
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Given we were using the oxy torch; map gas might have been a better solution with the lower heat output, but didn't want to risk melting my good pump too. I also wanted the straight neck and didn't have much luck finding a part number for the neck sans pump. Would have definitely preferred that as it looks less modified.
Like Al said, we have the tools and the Bridgeport, so whatever you decide to do with yours we can help out.
I may have much of the cooling system together tonight. Pump gaskets are showing up at the least. I did find a pressurized reservoir I like, but plenty of options even in just the GM car section at the junkyard. I'm mounting mine somewhat where the original overflow mounts, so you'd lose the PCM mount, but I guess if you're getting rid of the original reservoir you're losing it anyway.
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Stopped out to the shop for a couple hours last night. Had about 27 packages showing up, so did some easy bolt ons and mockup to keep progress moving.
First up was the water pump, which included the remaining pulleys I needed to slap on the drive belt... apparently in all the write-ups I'd gone through I forgot or missed the fact that they weren't using the factory truck belt routing. :-[
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/36585064216_5ffa5905e7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XJU1Zf)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4332/35822468493_55c0349874_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WzvvR8)
Back to the drawing board today and I'll be moving the idler to the top accessory bolt below the alternator. Will need a 20.5mm spacer with a 30mm OD, a 160mm long M10x1.5 bolt (GM part number: 11518249), and a 103" belt.
Will end up looking like this:
(http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/s10studduts01s/0523012012.jpg) (http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/car-intake-with-truck-accessories-belt-routing-options-468602/#post7453540)
Next up was the Trailblazer V8 (SS or 5.3 use the same) spark plug wire. It has the wire coming out 90° to the plug boot and gives just enough clearance for the steering shaft. Very clean solution. It's real close, but fits.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/35822468693_c3b38fd9e3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WzvvUz)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4419/36585064376_65f636fd31_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XJU231)
Threw the next lower rad hose trial on.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4408/36631426205_7cdfbfa29c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XNZCMT)
The diameters are spot on for both sides, but it ends up getting a bit twisted and stretched. Will probably work fine, but I'm thinking about extending it some or piecing together some different hoses with a reducer. It's the lower hose, so the split won't be so obvious to anyone looking in the engine bay unlike the upper.
I ended up cutting off a bend to get it to line up correctly, so no returning this hose. If the rad were closer to the engine I'd probably call it a good fit, but that's not where my mind is.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4438/36585064446_bd9daa0d58_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XJU24d)
The upper radiator hose that fits is Dayco 71751 for future reference.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4346/35822468243_f87580d465_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WzvvLP)
Lastly I made a quick converter to mount the billet shift knob I picked up. M12x1.75 is the knob pattern and the Hurst shift lever is a 3/8-16. No one makes an adapter because the threads are super close, but I took an existing M12 bolt and centered it up on the mill, drilled, and tapped with a small amount of drama. I'm very happy with the results considering I didn't want to put hours into this.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/36631426525_b35f9ce8f6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XNZCTp)
Also installed the cruise control turn signal lever that was delivered and put on the column covers. I'm holding off on the steering wheel to make it easier to install the radio and pull bulbs on the instrument cluster.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/35796528924_04cbe383d3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxdyVb)
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Such a well photographed build thread.
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Been picking away at this over the last couple weeks and had high hopes I could have it on the road or very close to by the end of this 4 day weekend I had, but ended up spending most of the weekend wrestling with brake lines and trying to get the rear parking brake and caliper adapters figured out.
Accessories turned out as expected with the pulley relocated. Al found some round aluminum stock on Amazon for a great price, so a quick cut and mill to height was much easier than the sloppy hole saw method I was starting out with. 1 1/4" diameter was close enough to 30mm to work and the 20.5mm height was pretty much spot on. The 160mm GM bolt I sourced was the right length and diameter, but the bolt head was smaller than I realized, so I threw a washer in there to make me happy.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4426/36855798676_8a0da25d9e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y9PAUL)
Last week I did some digging around the GM parts catalog to turn up any and all LSx lower rad hoses I could find. Both C5 and C6 vettes had potential as far as both shape and going from a 1.5" hose on the water pump to a 1 5/16" at the radiator. Dayco offers the same hose (71983) for both applications even though the C6 is more of a straight shot. For $15 I wasn't going to make a big deal about the extra bends and it fit perfect with about 1.5-2" of trimming on the radiator side.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/36855798996_4d82171e73_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y9PB1h)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4346/37044009295_3e48313363_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yrsenr)
I'm not sure why I hadn't looked at the GM parts before.
One weeknight Al stopped out and we started sorting through the rear lamp electrical. It must have been a late night or I wasn't in my right mind when I wired those into the body harness because I botched a few things, but after reviewing many of my other circuits nothing else is out of place, so far. A couple of the major connectors I must have been looking at upside down when I added in the wires and even had a ground going into the fog lamp circuit at the tail light, which was giving me varying brightness between the different brake lights. I also needed to swap in a pickup underhood fuse block with the CHMSL relay and a body relay block with door lock relays that I am using to switch between fog lights and brake lights. The rear lamps work as they should now. Well other than needing to reprogram the BCM to work with the fog lamp switch.
Lower driver rear fog lamp lights up by itself for my rear fog setup.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4382/36855796546_616a6c25b3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y9PAh3)
But once I hit the brakes they all light up
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/36855799346_f3b5a7ba22_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y9PB7j)
I'll have to do a video at some point to show how it all works in action.
The rest of the weekend I wrestled with brakes. All of the plumbing is done and I'm pretty happy with how all the lines came out with the master, line lock, and prop valve. I didn't grab any pictures as I'm waiting on the 1/8" NPT fittings I need to convert the line lock to 1/4" inverted flares. Of course they're special order everywhere I've found them, so hoping McMaster Carr ships out today or tomorrow or who knows when I'll actually be able to get my hands on them.
At the rear I was trying to keep the parking brake mechanism, but the drum in hat on the rear Z06 rotors is further outboard than the S truck rear discs. No big deal just space it out the 21mm, right? It was all looking great with dust shields I cut down on the mill and cleaned up the rust before paint.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/37044008985_156b33c76f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yrseh6)
Al will appreciate that one of our micrometers actually got used for once.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/37044009665_e0ef6c9e45_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YrsetP)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4381/36855798006_52b6568d41_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y9PAHd)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/36855798226_95bf9f82b6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y9PAM1)
That is until I went to install the axle shaft and I couldn't access the slot for the C clip... I ended up taking the spacer down to 16.5mm after trying a few other things and that gives me enough room for the c clip and the parking brake pads still appear to be on the drum in hat. It isn't centered like it would be from the factory, but simply being a parking brake it isn't likely to be a huge deal. At least for me. It is definitely a tight fit, but the axle shaft will not be able to move inboard much once the center pin is in place. If it could I'm more worried about the c clip falling out than contacting the parking brake mechanism.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4438/36855797726_884f9f6213_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y9PACo)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4368/36236252813_7557fb9cbb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xd5gvx)
Had to leave the axle only half together with only the one spacer setup so far.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4356/36855796946_a60f0cf9e9_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y9PAoW)
Back at it a couple nights this week and hoping I can have the axle in one piece again before the week is up.
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The attention to detail is amazing. Damn close now!
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aww still not done!?
that looks more like a macrometer than a micrometer.
glad things are coming together, but the taillights are the perfect example of Harley being Harley and over complicating something that could have just stayed stock :D
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Ha! The tail lights were on the easy end of modifications from stock. I might have a couple hours into them total with troubleshooting. I realized the other night that if I would have just bought stock rebuilt rear calipers I'd probably be on the road already. I'm sure I'll have somewhere between 50-80 hours into the machine work for just the caliper brackets. :o
Also that's one of the smaller micrometers in the set we have, which actually works out alright as they start where the dial calipers end.
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I've been picking away at the second spacer on my free evenings this last week. Got it mostly roughed in and realized the mill head wasn't completely straight, so had to get that sorted out and do the outer bore again. Everything went smoothly after that.
Rough shape of the spacer looks like this. I turned the OD down to 74.98mm to sit inside the factory caliper bracket, but it helped to take the majority of the meat down with an end mill rather than the boring head.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/36394584883_2b498288b2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs4L7P)
I opened up the bore to about 69mm to clear the axle housing and give me space to work with the boring head on the OD. I ended up heavily modifying one of the boring bits to be able to use it in this manner with a grinder. It was already chipped from its normal use, so this was reuse rather than trashing a good tool.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4381/37066639181_0d1747f6f3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YtsdrT)
Took awhile to get this all milled only moving in toward the OD at 25 thousandths of an inch per pass.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4366/36394584593_7b1e9d23fb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs4L2P)
This is where I noticed everything wasn't straight, so I trammed the mill and took it down again to the lowest point.
The finished product:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/37066638891_7135d39081_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YtsdmT)
Had to flip it over and bore out to 75.25mm for a snug fit over the axle flange.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4402/36394584373_f553b3e590_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs4KY2)
Milled down the edges to the shape of the axle flange. Fits in the caliper bracket exactly like it should.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/37066638501_ff36205ce3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ytsdfa)
And on the axle flange
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/36811135120_a68eaeb2be_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y5SFZs)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4412/36394584983_b0f885c114_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xs4L9x)
The 16.5mm instead of the 21mm thickness I originally planned isn't as bad as I thought it would be. CAD shows the parking brake pads are still fully within the drum and I can easily get the c clips on and off. I'm happy.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4437/37066639431_65442c9365_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ytsdwc)
Now to pick up new axle seals from the dealer, check the wear on the axle bearings, and get this buttoned back up.
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you do a lot of boring stuff.
but the part looks great!!!
glad to see you are doing peripheral stuff to let me catch up!
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i was looking through some old threads to dig up radiator info and came across this gem of a quote
I like how you kept going even on reduced power. :D
I have some interest in the tires, but it won't be strong until the Spring and hopefully we'll both have v8s by then.
look at that date!
http://www.pro-tourings10.com/index.php?topic=176.msg1366#msg1366
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The boring head has certainly earned it's keep on the Blazer. I was even using it as a fly cutter until I picked up new set screws for our actual fly cutters. I'm getting better at the machine work, but not much faster yet.
Haha to that date. Al and I realized earlier this summer that the engine has been out of a functioning vehicle almost twice as long as it ever was in one and Blazer has been in pieces for half the 10 years I've owned it. :o
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So this weekend I put some things together 8)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4404/36932331250_f069cb7ee5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YgzRnU)
And took some things apart :-[
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/36516769243_529b66bbb6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XCRZgH)
With the axles out for the rear brake upgrades I did some research on wheel bearings and axle seals. Came across a how to from Hot Rod on bearing relocator kits and learned what to look for in axle wear. Turns out my driver axle is a classic example of bearing wear on a GM 10 bolt.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4396/36516768423_f51afe50a3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XCRZ2z)
Bearing was quite pitted as well. I grabbed the spare 8.5 rear end out of the field, beat off the super rusty drums, pulled those axles only to find out they're just enough longer - we're talking 4.5mm - that my parking brake shoes are now sitting partially outside the drum. So I said screw it and pulled the whole rear. It is now at Drive Train Specialists in Warren, MI waiting to get the TrueTrac differential I've always wanted installed with the 3.73 gears I've had sitting on the shelf. I'm waiting for them to give me a call with my axle options, but I'll probably go with a stock replacement unless it is within $10-15 of the extra cost for a Moser axle.
Brake lines are all bolted up now along with the powdercoated line lock and proportioning valve bracket. Used Al's master cylinder bench bleeding method beforehand. Basically loop brake lines back into the reservoir and pump until the bubbles stop.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4405/37139213556_377e369dbd_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YzSbhd)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4393/36516768143_fe3844688a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XCRYWK)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4376/37139213336_4fd4d9f5ae_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YzSbdq)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4422/36516767703_2c6a3f4b3a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XCRYPa)
Started on the rear caliper brackets too.
1" plate + machinist blue
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4433/36516767433_fa3da23e6e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XCRYJv)
paper template
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4403/37139212916_a526aedb50_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YzSb6b)
insert too much time cutting, grinding, and wishing for a CNC plasma table or even a functional bandsaw
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4400/36516767103_4e80a06e99_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XCRYCP)
I said rough cut, right?
Rip down to .774" thickness and rethink my decision not to use 3/4" plate. I also miss machining aluminum at this point.
I'm getting a pretty nice surface with a flycutter though. Lots of practice.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4435/37139212706_e73b6f562a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YzSb2y)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4408/36932330250_4da1312ce1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YgzR5E)
Next up I slap the two pieces together and drill out the holes. This is the step that makes or breaks the brackets. Everything else can be tuned easily enough.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/36932330100_0ac9476a05_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YgzR35)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4342/37139212286_02da90a805_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YzSaUj)
I bolted the 2 pieces together, so they don't move around and started milling down the edges before I left the shop last night. Al reminded me we have some serrated hogging bits that may work better, so hopefully I can speed this step up a bit.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4410/37186837161_f618b7ea53_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YE5g7R)
The front end got assembled at some point over the weekend. I wanted to get a start on the cooling system routing. I actually have everything in place other than the reservoir and waiting on getting the inner fender mounted before making the brackets for that. It's all just loosely in place. I think I want the truck with the weight on the wheels and the hood in place before I get everything lined up and tightened down. Also hooked up a few misc things: a few harness connections, vacuum lines, hood cable. Basic stuff, but real progress on a project this torn apart.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4436/37139213716_cd7414f2fa_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YzSbjY)
Heater hoses are pretty simple. I'm pulling the reservoir/degassing tank off the heater core return. That's the top part of the T going nowhere at the moment.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4351/36516768703_c03a62d8d1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XCRZ7p)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4382/36932330910_6b1f81c049_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YgzRh3)
My goal is to have the brackets 2/3 of the way done on my 2 evenings out at the shop this week. If I can get those wrapped up by the end of the day Saturday I'm fairly confident I can have the engine compartment in place by the end of the weekend. Another day for lamp wiring, install the rear, bleed brakes, clutch, coolant, and the truck is pretty much on the road.
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good to see the heater hoses fit with the truck intake. I wasn't sure how well that was going to work out.
awesome progress!
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They fit pretty well. Almost as if the intake were designed for them to be right next to it. If I were up for making my own brackets and could find a long 5/8 hose with a right angle on the end I'd run them straight along the fuel rail and down around in front of the head. Something I'll keep in mind to clean up the engine bay in the future, but this will work better than great for now.
Took Al's advice and threw a roughing mill in the bridgeport tonight. Wow did that make a difference. Pretty much finished the bracket shape in the time it took me to do the one edge yesterday. I may actually have these done before the weekend.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4381/37194735491_082ec2c114_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YELK1X)
They're shaping up already. Took the grinder to the inner blend to smooth that out.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/36940369360_6bb1f34f75_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yhi3Q1)
Also hooked up the vacuum line as I bought the hose for it on the way out to the shop. 3ft was exactly the right length to come over from the one-way valve at the body harness.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4379/36940389080_616595659d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yhi9G1)
There's an unused vacuum port on the truck intake on the passenger side.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4356/37164830262_26d754a459_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YC8tey)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4437/37194715301_6de06534dc_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YELD1R)
Break off the tab and it's good to go. I used a 1/4" right angle boot and 7/32 vacuum hose with a 1/4 to 1/4 straight fitting in between.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4339/36524976823_c6c33053b0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XDA46H)\
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4333/36499976054_4bc0bffb6a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XBnVeY)
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i was looking at your heater hoses and realized i may have a better solution back from my rx7 days...
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12149.0
not quite sure on the length of the hoses, but the 90 angle really cleans up the WP side.
I didn't measure the barbs at the firewall so i dont know which p/n is most appropriate, but in case you guys cant see the pictures on the rx7 forum,
Posed the question a couple of weeks back and it didn't seem like anyone has gone through the trouble to find molded heater hoses that fit the LS1 in a FD chassis better than a straight hose that bends way up on the fender liner. Well, after several trips to my local auto stores I have the solution.
(http://www.halfspec.com/pictures/634.jpg)
Gates 18078
Gates 28471
and for our Canadian brothers here is a set of alternative part numbers found by quinns in reply #47 (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12149.msg250099#msg250099):
Dayco 87611
Dayco 80405
I haven't verified the above part numbers, but I expect quinns has tried them.
The picture above doesn't actually show both of the correct hoses. I later found that 18078 was a better fit since it is a 5/8" hose that scales up to 3/4" right at the water pump nozzle. Gates 28471 is 5/8" all the way though. I've found that 5/8" is a good tight fit on the heater core barbs (may require boiling the hoses + windex) and my LS1 water pump uses a 3/4" and a 5/8" barb, thus the need for one hose to transition to 3/4"
They aren't truly "drop in" like my title says as they will require a little shortening, but it's pretty dang close and when you're finished, the routing will look factory.
Lane
Here are the real hoses side by side:
(http://www.halfspec.com/pictures/636.jpg)
And wrapped in DEI fire sleeve:
(http://www.halfspec.com/pictures/637.jpg)
Aaaaannnd installed (Although it's hard to see with all the most excellent A/C equipment in the way :yay:)
(http://www.halfspec.com/pictures/652.jpg)
Lane
also of course i forgot to take pictures, but your engine appears to clear the heater hose firewall ports better than mine :/
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Al had actually mentioned trying to pick up some right angle hoses like that and run them up along the fuel rail. Would definitely clean things up and I will certainly remember those part numbers are here for me to grab in the future. Although that 3/4 to 5/8 transition hose won't work on the S Trucks as they have a 3/4" on the heater core. What I have already will work well enough for now as I'm just trying to get it on the road in the next 24-36 hours even if everything isn't exactly how I'd like it.
Speaking of, lots has happened in the last however many weeks I haven't updated. I have tons of pictures of different things and I might try to post somethings up this evening as I munch on the pizza I just ordered. Haven't made time to do much other than work on the Blazer, travel, and run Tough Mudders this past month.
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So back to the rear brake brackets. Spent some time on the sander rounding off the sharp corners and applied some machinist blue.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/24062958428_2eef0c6e30_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CEmXcA)
Took my template and traced out the lines I wanted to cut before going to town with the roughing mill again. I took several before and after pictures with the two brackets.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/26138539789_eaf6b74755_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FPLRe8)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4469/37883583092_5576881b83_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZHDgpJ)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/24062920098_652c5b25b4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CEmKNJ)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4506/24063778388_1f769a0eed_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CEr9WQ)
And here's the second bracket in progress.
With the holes drilled none of the lines need to be perfect, so I eyeballed my cuts by sweeping the bit along the scribe until I felt like it was close enough.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4471/37914341941_5571ca8187_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZLmUWH)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4476/37914322871_bfe3f6fbf2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZLmPgV)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/37914570471_329feb8bd7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZLo5ST)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4490/37883742602_ac64a9a90e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZHE5PU)
Learned along the way it was easier to drill a hole ahead of time to drop the end mill in for the slots. Especially in steel.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4452/37205112424_0ef4951685_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YFFVHA)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4445/37883715002_b4f1615eaa_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZHDWC3)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/37883694972_92207df218_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZHDQEG)
I also tried to accomplish all of the cuts in the same direction without moving the work piece. The second bracket went much quicker as I learned from the first run through.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4480/26138650659_b84c1890fa_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FPMqbF)
Flipped over the brackets and more bluing.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/37914485491_1de2484d36_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZLnDBH)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/37205045224_4e7f270600_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YFFzJY)
This side was almost all excess material, so I hogged away where I didn't need structure.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4484/37914461641_616bfb6bd1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZLnwwv)
Again trying to cut all the parallel lines at once.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4476/37914449621_3b59464fc8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZLnsXg)
And they turned out mighty fine and pretty much spot on to my original design.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/37914438841_4a45bd7cc9_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZLnpKp)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4452/37883630382_165307a237_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZHDvt5)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4513/37883626342_b863576852_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZHDugq)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/37914434691_b719bc026f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZLnovR)
Another round of powdercoat and they're ready to bolt on. Probably my best application so far. I got a thick even coat on these.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4452/24063764018_c561df54c7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CEr5F5)
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Got the axle back and Al needed the hoist a few weekends back, so a friend of mine stopped by and helped me get that back in as well as swap in the 2" drop spindles I finally decided to order. I wasn't happy with the stance and the wheel was definitely contacting the upper control arm when steering at full droop.
New stance is much much better. I'm currently sitting on 3" blocks and factory shackles. Back end could drop a bit more with the sliders when I get them on, but I may mill the blocks to keep this height.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4459/26139343999_02873bb0fe_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FPQYhP)
With that I had to figure out if I could use the heim joints for the tie rods. I really didn't want to modify the spindles to use a through bolt as that would leave me stranded without the availability of part store bought replacements if I had a tie rod failure. I finally had an epiphany when I realized I could combine the tapered stud and bolt through concepts I had read about from S10forum and clear both at the center link and the spindle.
I started by grinding down the hex shoulder that was on the Speedway bumpsteer kit. I then centered it up on the mill with the boring head and cut it down flush with the OD. Add this to the list of projects that would have loved a lathe.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4462/37884334722_727b4abbdc_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZHH7QS)
After test fitting at both the spindle and center link I cut all 4 studs down to 3.35"
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4510/24063732258_6249e68da3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CEqVeu)
Added cotter pin holes for the castle nuts. The center link taper pulls the stud in further. Hence the different locations.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4504/26139286439_5a4dd00b47_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FPQFbp)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4455/37915157511_9dc25a7238_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZLr6og)
And bolted it all together. Definitely a moment of victory on this project as this problem had been haunting my mind for weeks.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4498/24063689538_d4440f1b49_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CEqGwW)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4493/37884317112_6bc0ba2023_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZHH2Bf)
I am currently in the middle of sizing the tie rod sleeves, so I have no pictures of the final install yet. Sean had suggested a 15" and a 14", but for my truck is looking more like 13/14".
I stopped by the junkyard for a few things recently and found a couple 2 door Blazers with interiors that weren't completely trashed. Much of the rear trim in my Blazer had been broken/tossed along the way and the rear carpet was in sad shape, so this was a nice find even if it distracted me from the rest of it for a short time.
Got it home, cleaned up, and decided to get it all installed before the barn animals made use of it themselves. I really wanted to get the roof rust repaired before I put in the headliner, but not in the cards at the moment.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4498/37915106911_eb0cc5e326_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZLqQkR)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/26139247939_fe39c258ef_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FPQtJB)
Al had also been working on a bluetooth arduino solution to plug into the back of the factory radio and use the remote tape deck interface. He loaded me up with all the components and I spent an evening soldering and building the sub harness. It only needed 12V from the main harness, so we tapped into the amp turn on lead in the main radio connector and I added an in line connector, so it can be separated from the dash. Ended up being completely plug and play otherwise. Found a small spot behind and to the right of the glovebox to install the module.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/37915174941_f7a1b05480_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZLrbyM)
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With the axle installed and the brackets powdercoated I installed the rear calipers.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/37205633824_5f2a25b747_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YFJAHf)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4483/37205625004_c1d19a6f0b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YFJy6b)
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/26139180919_a7dd720a4c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FPQ8P6)
I don't think I mentioned it before, but the Moser axles ended up being the more affordable option. The S10 8.5 isn't very common to begin with and apparently I have the shorter version of axles of even those. Total cost for TrueTrac, Moser Axles, New Bearings/Seals, and installation was $1165, but considering labor was only $240 and I couldn't beat the price on any of the other parts it was money well spent. And now I have the 3.73s and locking diff I've been wanting for a while.
Al stopped by to help me bleed the brakes, but it didn't go very well. The rear calipers were bleeding fine, but the fronts were only letting out a trickle and the pedal wasn't firm until the bottom of the stroke. After digging through part drawings and google searches I confirmed our suspicion that I hooked up the lines to the master backward. I had dug into it before, but not sure how I came up with the opposite decision in the first place. It didn't end up being as big a mess as I feared and as of today the brakes are bled with a very firm pedal.
The before routing.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4393/36516768143_fe3844688a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XCRYWK)
I was able to use the original lines as a template to get the rough shape and work from there.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4508/24063795518_182894f15b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CErf3b)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4502/26139358929_f6cf7cce7c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FPR3Je)
On the other side of the engine bay I got my coil air intake tube cut down. Used a K&N kit from a 2003 Silverado (KNN-08740 for just the tube) and cylinder filter from a 1998 Vortec Silverado with a 45° coupler. The filter might be a bit excessive, but I wanted something with plenty of surface area.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4511/37883622242_63d02fde72_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZHDt3J)
Chop about 4" off the end and it all fits snug to the fender.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4459/24062975148_724c7ed1af_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CEn3aS)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/24063420528_3ea3d7315c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CEpjyQ)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4484/26139000669_b49b488f0d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FPPdek)
You can also see that I've got the passenger inner fender installed and a replacement coolant reservoir on top. I grabbed this from a 98 era Malibu/Alero/Grand Am and it is a pressurized tank to work with the capless radiator I am using. The inner fender is a 36" diameter x 10" wide aluminum trailer fender. It bolts into the factory location with some tweaking and trimming. I tried dimpling a recess with a pair of sockets for the bolt I'm using to support the coolant tank. I ended up tearing the aluminum before I got it deep enough and realized on the way over to have Ryo weld up the tear that my dimple dies would have been the tool to use... next time ha!
Lastly I got my forward lamp harness wired up. The fuse block from a Lumina has lots of flexibility for bussing, relays, and fuses, so I went that route to run larger gauge wires to my headlights. In the process I moved the DRL to the turn signal bulbs using some switchback LEDs and integrated the e fan too.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4511/37914914151_1739e48cd8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZLpR3p)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4489/24063394548_406291389f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CEpbQU)
The unloomed mess.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4486/37884095692_46d13009a5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZHFTME)
Got it all tamed.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4504/24063438898_971158df79_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CEpq2y)
Bled the clutch today while I was doing the brakes and gave the truck a quick alignment before measuring up the tie rods. If it's not moving under it's own power real soon it's going to be from something unexpected.
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Looking great - the attention to detail is awesome.
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that's a nice update!
Al needs to market that bluetooth thingy. I want one!!
watch out for powdercoat on brake brackets. I would highly recommend taking it off again before long-term driving and grinding off the coating anywhere that gets sandwiched.
Several of my chumpcar friends have seen issues where even with a well torqued setup, the brake heat softens up the powdercoat and causes the bolt to lose tension (torque) which causes the caliper to basically fall off. typically contained within the wheel but the worst failure has caused full lockup of that corner which isn't fun on a track, could be catastrophic on public roads with no run off.
You also spent way too much time/effort on those brake brackets but they look good!
oh and that rear carpet makes your rear area look so much better than bare floor!
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Great pictures. Great update. Funny to the spectator that you're even customizing the already custom parts like the taper studs.
Al needs to market that bluetooth thingy. I want one!!
I've got extra of everything in the box except the bluetooth board. I'll order up a few more of those from china, should be in before Santa. I'd like to think that a v2.0 could be entirely contained inside the radio.
Harley- take a picture of the wiring notes sheet that went with that if you didnt already. Save me from using my brain again to remember where the wires went to.
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i have the s
Funny to the spectator that you're even customizing the already custom parts like the taper studs.
I've got extra of everything in the box except the bluetooth board. I'll order up a few more of those from china, should be in before Santa. I'd like to think that a v2.0 could be entirely contained inside the radio.
Harley- take a picture of the wiring notes sheet that went with that if you didnt already. Save me from using my brain again to remember where the wires went to.
typical Harley needing to touch everything!
awesome!
FYI my radio is different from the one pictured, if it makes a difference. Mine has both the CD and cassette deck in the unit directly. not sure if that changes anything
i think it's this one (http://s.ecrater.com/stores/267342/53b8d005de6e7_267342b.jpg)
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That does make a difference. I'd like to do an adapter for that style, which is also in my trailblazer, but havent yet.
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I was going back and forth on removing the clamping surface powdercoat, so now firmly on the remove side of the fence.
I'm not sure how much time I could save in making the brackets. All of the weight reduction slots were just a matter of moving the table over and diving in again once I already had the part clamped down for the main cuts, so not much extra there. A CNC plasma would make short work of the outside shape, but still need to add in the clearances and offsets on the mill. Although if I were to go back in time I'd join that makerspace I found in Ferndale and make use of their CNC mill.
If the custom part doesn't fit well.... gotta make it. I did the same thing with the LCAs too. haha
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I was a brake booster, electric fan, and a misfire issue away from driving the Blazer out to the West Coast a couple weeks back. Just returned to Michigan yesterday and picked up the parts to sort through the last of it. Unfortunately I have to pull the front clip and the dash to do that. Don't forget to test your junkyard parts kids. I'm definitely kicking myself.
While I was bleeding the clutch a few weeks back something went pop and pretty much all the fluid came out. I was able to get it to bleed and work, but it never really stopped dripping, so I had to assume the worst. Ordered up a new clutch kit and an aluminum flywheel thinking there was something wrong with the used parts I picked up way too many years ago. New slave was ordered too as well as a remote bleeder line because something was leaking and the stock bleeder was much harder to deal with on the T56 than the NV1500 I last bled on the Isuzu. Once I had the transmission out it became obvious what I had screwed up. The bolts I nabbed from my pile of misc transmission parts were too long for bolting on the slave and it must have tweaked or turned somehow without the appropriate clamping. I slapped it back together with the new parts and got everything to bleed without a splash or dripping this time.
With the engine running and a full cooling system I noticed a significant leak coming from the water pump. That ended up being the seal to the rear cover, so I pulled that off, trashed the trashed o ring, and sealed it back up with RTV after a thorough cleaning of all the oxidation that had built up over time.
Shortened up the aluminum tie rods I picked up from speedway. From my memory the passenger side was 13.5" and the driver ended up being 14". Definitely shorter than the recommendation of 14/15, but ended up being easy enough to do on the mill. Did another quick alignment and the truck seemed to track fairly straight with the wheel off only 10-20°.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4551/38415321866_5e8dcb5744_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21wCyPC)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4561/24599336858_4704c943d6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DtL2Py)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4539/24599439938_c5ac885c65_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DtLysN)
Made a template out of cardboard for the Cold Air Box.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4556/38415415426_5bf51b8d73_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21wD3CJ)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4521/24599433538_b428ae6308_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DtLwys)
I picked up some aluminum with similar specs to the trailer fenders I turned into inners - 0.8 5025 Marine Grade Aluminum. After many measurements and some fun cuts I realized my usual technique of clamping into the vice and bending by hand wasn't going to easily work on something so large, so I spent an hour or so in between some painting and sealing projects to fabricate a simple sheet metal brake.
This piece was pushing the limits of the setup, but it pulled through.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4566/26695468809_97816bbe35_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GEZfPB)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4553/38415374236_e38d7148c8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21wCQoy)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4562/38415371466_f1f5ccaf0f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21wCPyN)
I ended up having to get creative with the vice for the second bend on this one anyway, but again turned out as planned without excessive effort.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4557/37756444104_f5b27dac3d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZwpDqd)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4572/37756438444_2797913a4c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZwpBJC)
This panel fills in the gap at the bottom between the inner fender and the core support. Per usual I pull out my dimple dies as often as possible.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4581/37584072425_49545f3ca6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZgbcjH)
I made a couple stud brackets to easily bolt the fuse block and coolant bottle mount to the fenders. They received the usual powdercoat treatment.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4529/24599430398_8e6d1d6d78_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DtLvCj)
Bolted on the coolant bracket after bending it up in the brake and using the press to create a depression for the hook feature on the bottle.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4521/38439615822_f77176427a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21yM5yW)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4573/38439621572_2f054e11fd_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21yM7h5)
The engine bay now looks like this:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4549/38439585972_c9f500beed_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21yLVGh)
I've got one more panel to close out the top of the airbox and mirror the dimpled piece for the other side too, but this was plenty good enough for a test drive. Fit and trimmed the driver side inner at some point that last week before I left.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4556/37756424674_6f0091ffd2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZwpxDd)
With all that done I bolted on the rest of the front end and bent up a quick bracket for the license plate to take the truck for a test drive. The brakes were very hard to actuate due to the booster, but I wanted to get it down to the gas station and fill up the tank, so I went for it anyway. It did seem to pull pretty well, but the engine was definitely breaking up most of the time due to the misfire. The clutch operates well even with the light flywheel and the transmission shifted smoothly. When it was firing right it was definitely fun, but with all the issues I never got to really push it in any direction on the 10 mile jaunt.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4533/37756429304_bb9bd49892_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Zwpz23)
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I think I solved the misfire before I flew off to the West Coast. Haven't had it out on the road again and I think I'll get the brakes and fan working before I do.
Most of the misfires were happening on cylinder 6 according to the misfire counts in the PCM. I could get that to show up at idle and low load driving around the yard and after "fixing" a few things it is now gone. It was either a small vacuum leak at the port I opened up for Blazer's vacuum system, a poorly repaired ground done by me a few days earlier after I sliced it putting the transmission back in, or a little gouge I found on the head on the cylinder 6 sealing surface. I offset the intake as much as I could to avoid the gouge and now I'm seeing 0 misfires in the count.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4528/37584003035_c0a294ff50_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZgaQGk)
The next test drive will be telling, but I'm hoping successful. Now to go clean up the barn a bit and start tearing things apart again.
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Nice! It runs! The stance looks great too. How is clearance and turning radius with the monster front tires?
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aw, i was hoping you made it in the blazer but i guess timing was a bit crunched.
Front stance looks great! I think the rear needs a little more poke.
How's it feel to drive something that hasn't been on the road in what, 25 years? :D
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Front definitely settled a bit more after driving. I don't think I could have planned it better and I love it. I think if the rear was an inch or so lower the poke would be just right, but that will require modifying the spring mounts and frame. Will have to see how the rest of it goes and what time I have after it's road worthy.
With the brake booster and e fan out of commission I couldn't comfortably and safely drive it more than I did already, let alone across the country. Add in the 2 days I spent chasing down the misfire and the timeline went right out the window. Almost took out a deer on my first test drive as it was haha definitely not enough pedal ratio without the booster in the equation.
Clearance and turning is better than I expected. Seems like it is a bit reduced, but I haven't done any parking lot maneuvers and have been playing it safe driving around the driveway and yard. Definitely appreciate having the adjustable stops as I've already turned them in a bit. I'm honestly impressed with how much angle I've kept. From the quicky turn tables I made up for the alignment I'd say it has somewhere between 25-30° of angle, which is where my rough modeling and calculations said I'd be. The limiting factor at this point is the sway bar, but the frame and brake line at the rear are a close second.
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Bump for update?
Harleys been working like a madman on this beast.
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"like" a madman? have you seen his beard recently?
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The beard and I are sitting at the alignment shop currently. Been driving it around quite a bit the last couple weeks sorting out a misfire, but I think I've got it worked out now. I've got a few pictures to upload and I'll drop an update sometime in the next few days.
Washed it over at Al's house yesterday for the first time in 6 years or something.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4561/27301801789_244fea0ffe_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HAySuv)
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Alright. Well now that I have another 6000 miles on this truck I thought I'd sit down and make an update meaning this is the first time I've sat down with WiFi since I hit the road a few weeks back.
I think I left off with the broken electric fan and brake booster. To get the electric fan off the radiator I ended up having to pull the whole front end because of the way I mounted the radiator in the core support. Having the driver fender off gave better access to the brake booster, but I also had to pull the dash to remove the bolts. While I was in there I fixed some wiring behind the dash I had not originally thought out correctly. Gotta love unwrapping harnesses I taped up less than a couple months prior.
Tore it down this far >:( OK maybe it wasn't so bad, but didn't feel great at the time.
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Added in a relay for the rear fogs as I unknowingly used an existing relay that was tied into the courtesy lighting. Whoops.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4562/38595624832_8406484714_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21NyEBs)
If you didn't know the flasher socket behind the glovebox of an S10/Blazer works well as a standalone relay holder for the typical unsealed OEM relays.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4543/38571963096_0843149618_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21LtoNu)
Replacement booster and electric fan did the trick and those are working as they should now. If I didn't say it before I regret not testing that fan and it didn't take much if any effort to do.
While I had the cooling system apart for a chemical flush (not sure how I would have done this on the stand, but would have been a good idea to get the block cleaned out before dropping it in the truck. yay clogged brand new heater core) I rerouted the heater hoses like Ryo suggested along the intake and down the front of the block with the 90 degree hoses. I actually found quite the selection in the gates catalog for several different lengths in different diameters. It is a great resource and I ended up taking it a step further to find an offset hose (Gates 19843) that fits between the 3/4" T I used off the water pump outlet and the coolant reservoir. It all looks like factory hoses now and so much cleaner, but somehow I've yet to get a good picture or the new routing/underhood pic.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4541/37910637244_4e46243458_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZL2VEC)
Gates Catalogs (https://www.gates.com/resources/resource-library/product-catalogs)
Click on the Molded Coolant Hose Identification Guide and page 214 has the right angle hoses. I went with the Dayco version of Gates 28472. The 52" length was plenty and the 40" should have been enough, but I shopped around the different lengths between the 2 brands to find the best deal. And honestly the longer right angle hoses are the best deal that can be found on lengths of high quality heater hose. $11 for 4 ft in my case. If I break open the coolant system again I'll probably order up a 3/4" version to replace the straight section of flimsy parts store generic brand hose I have now.
I got a kick out of the ghetto flushing rig I eventually got slapped together.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4641/39325557191_72e66e0d1b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22V4L58)
Made a new mount for the hose bracket too. It bolts in with the front fuel rail mount.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4566/37910559144_9f8beb4d6a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZL2ws5)
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4518/38571974366_88b8247e0e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21Lts9N)
Here are a few more pictures of the airbox assembled. I did end up finishing the top piece that bolts in to secure the top of the intake tube, but again no pictures of that. I'll have to remember to grab some underhood pictures one of these days when the sun is out. It looks good and if I grab the bracket from the junkyard I'm pretty sure I can squeeze the truck engine cover under the hood too.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4546/37740170145_89d4f5a7cf_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZuYeJH)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4551/38628158761_bf49e9040a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21RrpPg)
Had another persistent drip once the coolant system was flushed and back together. Finally chased it down to this minute crack in the thermostat housing water neck. I bought the engine from a truck with a front end collision, so I'm guessing this happened then. The coolant was appearing out of the middle of the part with only that slight indication of a crack, but swapping in a spare housing fixed the issue.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4564/38759049441_8f1a3398d4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2241g48)
I got the truck back on the road and still had the cylinder misfire issue. It actually hopped around to a couple other cylinders while I was at it, but those ended up being loose crimps on the fuel injector connectors. Cylinder 6 stuck around even after going through all of the connectors and making sure the terminals were solidly crimped on. I was pulling the spark plugs to actually record the compression numbers this time and something looked off on the cylinder 6 plug. Turns out the inner ceramic was loose and it would slide up and down the inner electrode. Just as a confirmation I briefly swapped cylinder 4 & 6 plugs and the misfire followed. With a new plug I've had no issues since and 6000 miles without a CEL. I don't think words can describe how happy I am about that after banging my head on that particular wall for a month.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4578/24218201677_1370497d49_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CU5BBk)
Not sure if anyone noticed the last little cosmetic modification I made to the truck before hitting the road. It's now the third C6 Z06 part to end up on my truck haha
(https://www.corvsport.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2006-Chevrolet-Corvette-Z06-C6-Velocity-Yellow-3.jpg)
This was my mockup.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4520/38728036302_6047f00038_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/221giVQ)
With the switch back parking/turn LED bulbs I'm trying to use I wasn't able to get the corner lights to work with the factory wiring and Al convinced me to split the turn function into a Euro style side marker. We were looking at the export Blazer marker at first, but when he threw me a picture of Corvette version I was sold.
I first did a mockup in scrap metal using the hole template Al and I came up with.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4537/26983382149_36bdac2886_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/H7qTqH)
Transferred the same shape onto the fender after outlining the cardboard I had found a good location with. I literally stuck the lamp through the paper hole I cut out and trimmed the outline on the template, so I could match to what was drawn on the fender exactly.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4541/26983391339_c245aa865a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/H7qWaa)
After drilling the hole, carefully cutting most of the slot with the grinder, and spending some time finessing with files I had the hole to size. I took another sheet of paper with the hole cut out and traced the fender lines to mirror to the other side.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4564/38759081781_c316f32216_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2241qEH)
It took some eyeballing, but I got it pretty close on the other side based off the traced template.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4552/24218198187_8e80e39c72_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CU5Aza)
I didn't have the second housing yet, so I tied a string to the wiring and taped it to the fender because I was driving the truck around at the time.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4687/24218198987_ac2fb343db_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CU5ANX)
I really like how this turned out. Probably my second favorite visual modification on the truck behind the yellow corvette calipers up front.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4547/38042597484_72482428a1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZXGfRb)
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And that pretty much brings the progress up to date. Al has done some great stuff on the tuning side bringing together tables from several different vehicles to get the idle and several other things working well.
I was visiting a friend up in Bay City after getting it together and a light dusting of snow was a sign that I needed to head south to be able to actually enjoy this truck this time of year. With all the snow I've seen Michigan get I don't think I could have left any later and got out.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4565/24218203367_6b443d83af_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CU5C7t)
I ended up going through Bowling Green, KY on my way to the Southwest.
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There's more history to this picture than meets the eye. I was working at the Corvette plant, which is pretty much across the street from the Museum when I bought the truck back in 2006. I flew down to Jacksonville, FL and brought it back to Bowling Green over a weekend. Add in the fact that the transmission internals came from a 2006 Z06 as well as the Calipers and corner lights, it was a pretty cool convergence to have my route just happen to pass by that place nearly 12 years later, so I stopped for a photo op.
Here's the Blazer in my apartment's parking lot just down the highway from the museum and plant not long after I bought it. It's come a long way since then. Just looking at the picture reminds me of the Florida smell it used to have.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/24/92376111_f46f938eec_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/9ascz)
Or how about the picture of how I picked it up :o
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Kept going and ended up in Tennessee.
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Stayed overnight in a Western Texas rest area.
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Stopped in Southern New Mexico and saw a friend from my time hiking.
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My first long term destination was LA after seeing another friend in Yuma, AZ.
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Swung down to San Diego and then up to San Francisco. Took Highway 1 down the coast until I hit a mudslide closure south of Big Sur. Fun even if rough roads and grand views the whole way.
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I've started back East and now am in Houston, but stopped in Carefree, AZ for about 24 hours too. The Blazer really seems to fit in the desert.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4591/39289931782_98e483ecc8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22RVaSW)
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No major issues have arisen. I've rinsed and washed the truck once each. Just did an oil change a few hours ago. Not really touched anything otherwise.
The clutch doesn't seem to be fully engaging. It typically shifts with 0 issues, but sometimes can't get into second when downshifting and from a stop, starting with the pedal up I'm having to use the synchros in 1st or second to slow/stop the input shaft before sliding it into gear. My leading theory is a bit of air in the remote bleeder hose as the transmission, slave, pressure plate, flywheel, etc. are all setup as the would have been from the factory on a Camaro. I really should just grab a friend and a wrench and confirm/fix that.
Even after replacing every piece of the steering I have lots of slop. I can deal with it, but driving straight down the highway is actually borderline sketchy. I'd say there's more slop in the steering than I had in the Isuzu. Although tearing up canyon/coast roads I don't notice it and am quite comfortable driving 70-80% I want to blame the steering box even though I replaced it right before I left with a reman, but again need to grab a friend to sit in the driver seat and help me actually confirm where the slop is coming from. Everything else is either proforged or heim joints, so... shrug?... ??? The other factor may be the steering pump seems to be leaking. I haven't found where it is coming from; everywhere I touch is dry, but it does seem to leak down until the level of the pump shaft and I had seen fluid directly underneath that in the initial 500 miles of driving.
I'm also wondering if the engine is providing enough vacuum for the brake booster in all circumstances. The pedal typically has good feel, but there are certain situations - just off highway cruising and less often off heavy throttle - that it's soft up top in the pedal travel and I have to get through that to the firm pedal I'm used to. It's never not, eventually, given me the strong braking it has, but it certainly gives me a momentary fright when it decides to be soft. I know some of the Full Size trucks of that era use a supplemental electrical vacuum pump, so it has me wondering.
Other than that there are a few squeaks and rattles I know I could fix if I weren't on the road. The passenger door pins definitely need to be replaced and I have the parts to do both doors.
I also want to get the fuel gauge dialed in better. The current setup doesn't show completely full and filling up at a quarter tank is about 11 gallons on a 18 gallon tank. I messed with those tables so much before trying to get the fuel cell working that I don't know if the baseline Al and I had was the original Blazer. Ryo do you have the original cal file from your Blazer? I was hoping I could get a copy of your fuel level tables at some point.
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Epic update!
Im going to break replies up by topic. First one is the aux brake booster pump.
it would be nice to know what the vacuum was in the brake booster while youre driving around, see if it is getting low during your fright brake events. Is the replacement booster also a junkyard part? That might be called into question first. The aux pump has its vacuum sensor internal, but maybe we can add a MAP sensor to your booster and log it using an open PCM pin for EVAP pressure or similar.
IF you do decide to go with the silverado part its all self contained, which is nice. Info copied and pasted below.
(http://image.trucktrend.com/f/38429058+re0+ar0+st0/1112tr-02%2B2001-gmc-sierra-hydratech-braking-systems%2Bsupplemental-brake-assist-removed.jpg)
Supplemental Brake Assist
The Supplemental Brake Assist (SBA) unit creates vacuum for the brake booster in case of a vacuum loss or low vacuum to the brake booster. The SBA consists of
The sensor circuit board and pressure sensor
The check valve manifold
The vacuum pump
The motor
When the vehicle is keyed ON, the SBA performs a self test by toggling the Supplemental Brake Assist Signal Circuit low for one second. The instrument panel cluster (IPC) recognizes this as an indication that the SBA is functional. If the IPC does not see this signal for five consecutive ignition cycles the Service Brake Booster Message is displayed. The SBA performs diagnostics at 16 Km/h (10 mph) under normal conditions, and before 16 Km/h (10 mph) if a low vacuum condition exists. The SBA then spins the motor and runs diagnostics to determine if the pump is operating and the SBA is functional. The SERVICE BRAKE BOOSTER message will display until the next ignition cycle if the unit is unable to maintain reduced power brake levels.
The SBA unit utilizes the ignition on signal from the generator to determine the engine is running and monitors speed using an input from the vehicle speed sensor. It also has an internal pressure sensor that compares the pressure inside the booster to the ambient pressure. If the vacuum drops below 18 cm/Hg (7 in/Hg) the REDUCED BRAKE POWER message is displayed and a 5 second timer is started. If the vacuum stays below 18 cm/Hg (7 in/Hg) for 5 seconds the SBA starts the pump. If the vacuum drops below 15 cm/Hg (6 in/Hg) the pump comes on immediately. Once the vacuum level increases to 23 cm/Hg (9 in/Hg) The pump shuts off. The REDUCED BRAKE POWER message continues to be displayed until the vacuum level reaches 25 cm/Hg (10 in/Hg). If the pump runs for one minute without the vacuum reaching 23 cm/Hg (9 in/Hg) the pump shuts off and the SERVICE BRAKE BOOSTER message is displayed.
The SBA assembly operates in two modes.
Low Vacuum Mode — The low vacuum mode can occur with the engine ON or OFF. The SBA determines the ON/OFF status by monitoring the regulator output on the engine ON circuit. This mode involves SBA pump activation and deactivation due to changes in vacuum detected by the pressure sensor.
Low Vacuum Engine ON Mode — The SBA will operate in reaction to changes to brake booster vacuum as monitored by the pressure sensor. This mode is normally active on power up if a valid engine ON signal is detected and a low vacuum condition is indicated for more than 5 seconds.
Reduced Brake Power Mode — When the booster vacuum drops below 18 cm/Hg (7 in/Hg) the SBA will start a 5 second timer. If the vacuum exceeds 18 cm/Hg (7 in/Hg) the timer stops and resets. After 5 seconds the pump activates and the REDUCED BRAKE POWER message is displayed.
Immediate Pump Activation Mode — When the booster vacuum drops below 15 cm/Hg (6 in/Hg) the REDUCED BRAKE POWER message is displayed and the pump is turned on.
Pump Deactivation Mode — The pump will be turned off when the booster vacuum exceeds 23 cm/Hg (9 in/Hg). The SBA will continue to display REDUCED BRAKE POWER until the booster vacuum exceeds 25 cm/Hg (10 in/Hg).
Low Vacuum Engine Off — The SBA will monitor the vacuum when the vehicle is above 8 Km/h (5 mph) and an engine OFF condition is detected. If the vehicle is below 8 Km/h (5 mph) and an engine OFF condition is detected the SBA will monitor the vacuum for 60 seconds
Vacuum Augment (Engine OFF) Mode — If the engine ON state changes to OFF after reaching 8 Km/h (5 mph) the SBA activates the pump for up to 60 seconds. After 60 seconds the pump shuts off and the SERVICE BRAKE BOOSTER message is displayed. If the engine ON signal is detected or the vehicle slows to below 8 Km/h (5 mph) before the pump times out. The pump shuts off and no message is displayed.
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good point on flushing the engine coolant, i should do that too... adding to my to-do list.
same with the e-fan, I need to test that too
heater hoses look good in that one picture!
good find on the crack in the t-stat housing. that's not a noticeable crack.
I'm happy it wasnt in your modified water pump!
yay for figuring out the misfire issue! did you never swap plugs previously?
Really happy to see this truck driving around and being enjoyed!!! it's about time... or rather it's way overdue, but glad you made it this far without getting discouraged!
Congratulations!!!
clutch: i think you meant to say it isnt fully DISengaging.
As for that issue, I have a feeling the stock s10 clutch master/pedal system doesn't have quite the travel it "should" have from a mechanical design perspective.
with the 2 clutch swaps (3 if you count re-doing it once with the same parts) I'm convinced that a brand new clutch is going to drag for the first several hundred miles of "wear" which knocks down the high points on the friction disk
(i had the same issue every time, regardless of how much bleeding and stackup measurements i did, but it eventually fixed itself (i think from wear as mentioned))
I'm sad to hear the new steering box (i'm assuming) has slop too.
one day one of us will find a solution for sloppy boxes!
as for lack of vacuum for the brake booster, maybe check the condition of the check valve/vacuum canister? a temporary vacuum gauge might be an easy $30 tool to watch too. I would be surprised if it needs a supplemental vacuum pump, although im curious to why the fullsize trucks might have needed one... that's definitely news to me. do you know what option combination lead to that?
edit - Al's reply sort of answers part of that. interesting topic I should dig into for various other vacuum source projects in the future :)
Al asked about the blazer cal files, he should have them already but if he doesn't I can either pass him the pcm or I can download a stock generic blazer file from HPTuners online tune repository and look at that.
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Thanks guys. It is great to be enjoying this truck even if it is well overdue. Definitely a few times I wanted to set it on fire and roll it into a lake. Just getting it driving makes fixing things much more palatable as it isn't a setback to having it on the road.
Al mentioned the check valve too in a text and that makes some sense. I'm wondering if it is sticking open in the situations I have the soft pedal, but it's certainly doing its job at idle. I've stopped the truck and popped the valve out of the the booster to have all urge air rush in, so it seals in some instances. Al is there a part number for just the valve?
Definitely flush the block and test the fan! I knew better and even thought of it, but for whatever reason didn't.
I swore I had swapped the plugs. I pulled them before, but maybe didn't move them?
Yup. Not fully disengaging. Sometimes just writing my thoughts down has me thinking through it more. The pedal is firm, so a bad bleed doesn't really line up. Leaves, I figure, a master that doesn't push enough like you said or a slave that needs to be shimmed, but with all the s truck clutch disengagement issues I have run across or heard of I'm leaning toward the master. Al and I discussed running some numbers comparing to the other cars that use this slave.
I'm 6000 miles in on this clutch and it hasn't gotten better. Matter of fact it got worse from the beginning and settled in where it is now, which is why I was thinking it was a bleeding issue.
I've found a couple companies that blueprint steering boxes, but we're talking at the bare minimum $500 and more like 7 or 800 to purchase. At that point I start thinking about scrapping the front suspension and insert snowball to avalanche.
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My experience with a t56 swapped blazer is also a firm clutch pedal and a 2nd gear that grinds more with time. On mine i had to cut out the firewall for the stock s10 master, since it was also an auto to manual swap. Im interested in running the numbers on the clutch system to see how much force, pressure, throw we're expecting.
Will look up the brake check valve for you. Im calling your booster into question as well if its a junkyard part. As for why some fullsize trucks had the aux pump, im going to guess it allows for a higher gvw rating in some engine stalled or back to back brake apply test. Total guess there.
We must have a pile of steering boxes on the shelf. Take one apart when you get back and re-engineer it to be what you want.
Ryo, i looled for that file, but it must be on an old pc or something. Ill look you up one day to scan your pcm.
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2nd seems to be the most unhappy, but I get 1st and 3rd problems too. Anything 4th or above has shown no signs of an issue yet.
I want to say the booster is fine, but the first one I had was bum too. I don't think I'll like the price new, but look up the booster number too while you're at it. Like I said the valve and booster hold vacuum after shutting down the truck and I've even come back 20-30 minutes later or more and it was still holding a vacuum. But that's not the circumstance I'm having the issue, so can't directly correlate the two and say it is fine. Yes it is another junkyard booster, but I can't recall ever hearing of anyone on any car having persistent vac booster problems. I always had the impression the super durable.
I could certainly tear a steering box down and I may out of curiosity, but don't think I have the know how or the tools to effectively rebuild it from the browsing I've done through the steering gear manual I found awhile back. Apparently the professional rebuilders aren't able to either., so I may have nothing to lose trying.
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hmmm 6k miles should have worn down any high spots for sure.
I'm curious on the fluid volume displacement compared to other cars too. the blazer definitely has the heaviest stock clutch pedal in any cars ive ever driven, which backs up the theory that there wasn't enough pedal stroke room to the floor/firewall to start with.
as hard as it is to trust a junkyard part, a bum booster isn't particularly common from my forum browsing too.
i still vote for tossing on a vacuum gauge to figure that out.
another idea i could think of is pad knockback.
you have a pretty big fixed rotor on there with fixed calipers, so any compliance in the upright/bearing stackup is going to cause the rotor to push the pistons back "more" than a stock setup.
i wouldn't be surprised if an aftermarket drop spindle isn't as stiff as a corvette upright.
here's a good quick whitepaper
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/pad-knockback
I agree you should take the sloppiest steer box you can find and see what you can do to make it better.
Al, you have an email with a table incoming
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Great to see this truck on the road!
As usual, I have little of value to add on the technical side of things other than to say that I've also been fighting occasional brake issues similar to what you're describing. It usually happens when I shift out of reverse into drive after a hard auto-x run - the pedal will drop for an instant and needs a quick pump to come back to normal. It's been bled a number of times and I've changed the check valve at the booster twice (I wasn't sure about the used one I tried 1st). I'll try changing the booster at some point. I don't know if it has anything to do with my ABS module being unplugged.
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Pad knockback has some merit. It does happen most often after long highway stretches. Although it is interesting that rentedmule is seeing something similar on his floating calipers. I couldn't say if it's the abs module or not, but mine is long gone.
The engine side of the booster is easy to take apart especially with the factory braided lines to the master. The service manual says you can remove the booster nuts on the interior without pulling the dash, but between molesting the dash insulator and how cramped it was I don't think I'd do it without pulling the dash even with how much work it is. Good time to change your heater core too?
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From the parts catalog request list
15234951 - 98-05 blazer booster
18022219 - 95-05 blazer check valve kit, includes grommet
not sure why the booster PN changed in 98, I'll dig on that another day.
On the thought of blazer drop spindle rigidity- one of the hub to spindle bolts is purposfully undersized on the belltech spindles. You can see it on this first picture I found from google, the top most bolt of the triangle pattern isnt through the spindle into the threaded hub, but now a smaller bolt through the hub into the spindle.
(http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/redxtrmeblazer/Brakes/14spindlrear.jpg)
Second point of suspicion would be the caliper mounting brackets. Looking back in time, even C3 vettes had this issue, and added a fat cast bracket to hold their calipers in place.
(https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/attachments/c1-and-c2-corvettes/47736710d1380239299-j56-brackets-and-calipers-not-sure-3a.jpg)
(https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/attachments/c3-general/48139766d1501528106-can-i-check-if-my-1970-corvette-lt1-is-a-zr1-from-the-vin-dsc_00332_zps4651c1fd.jpg)
Third suspect point, are you running wheel spacers on the front? are they still tight?
How high of a cornering load are you seeing leading up to this? IF its lighter forces can we simulate this with low speed maneuvers sideways on a loading ramp or inclined drive and reproduce the problem? or even measure whats deflecting?
Ryo, table received. Thanks. If you have the whole file as a .BIN I can import that directly, and would like it for reference.
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Hey wait, youve got fixies on your rear end too. Those axles for sure are sliding in and out against the limits of the c clips or the pad to rotors, whichever comes first.
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Hey wait, youve got fixies on your rear end too. Those axles for sure are sliding in and out against the limits of the c clips or the pad to rotors, whichever comes first.
time for floating rotors!
also Al, sorry no .bin export option on hpt
https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?44865-Why-can-t-we-export-a-tune-file-as-a-bin-file
as for thoughts on the booster change in 98, is that when the blazers started to get the 4piston fronts instead of the 2 piston?
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I've been back in Michigan for a couple weeks now. Blazer has about 11,000 miles on the swap now. Didn't take as many pictures on the second half of the trip. I ended up heading back West after shooting up to Denver where the snow chased me south again.
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While the rest of the country was seeing temperatures below 40 or much more I hung out in the California Desert.
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Click here for a 360 view of the grafitti. (https://photos.app.goo.gl/Sfywb44WrcvlPNj72)
Ended up hiking about 100 miles along the PCT with a friend of mine and then shot straight back to Michigan via Oklahoma City. Got caught up in an ugly snow storm coming through Indiana unfortunately and had to wait it out for an afternoon while the snow crews did their work. It definitely got real sketchy before I called it. Not super happy I pressed on into the storm, but my sleepy brain thought I could get ahead of it.
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Averaged 18-19 mpg and that was with plenty of fun too. I never did really find the sweet spot for highway driving. Got up to 22mpg on a couple tanks, but could never replicate it. That is likely the effect of enjoying the throttle pedal.
(http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/42247.png) (http://www.fuelly.com/car/chevrolet/blazer/2000/harzley/42247)
Overall I'm super impressed with the truck. It's seen some shit and survived over 10,000 miles without much complaint. I had to replace the battery on my way to OKC and both low beams burned out eventually, but all of those things were something like 10 years old. :o And another thing to the headlight's credit my wiring had them on with the DRL circuit, so always lit up at full power. On the battery side it appears that my alternator is weak, but I want to double check the output myself the next time I'm out at the shop.
The wheels and tires took the biggest beating. There are many many crappy roads outside of Michigan - shocker; California, of all the places, definitely did not live up to the expectations of a state with a thriving car culture and high taxes. There was one point coming through Indiana I hit a gap between a bridge and the road that I was sure launched the truck off the ground, but all the tires still had air afterward and I've yet to find any marks on the wheels. Truck still drives straight and no new vibrations from the violence. I've run over boards, taken the tires down what was essentially a deteriorated, rocky 2 track, drove in cold rain, subfreezing temperatures, and they kept kicking. Aside from actual snow buildup on the road I had very few real traction issues. These NT-01 tires say 'recommended for track use only' on the sidewall. Needless to say I'm impressed with how well they handled the situations I found myself in.
On a similar note, I quickly began fantasizing of adjustable shocks on the rear. The Xtreme shocks are a good, affordable, off the shelf option, but after tuning in the compression for a nice ride up front I was longing to do the same for the rear axle. I can easily tell a sharp difference in how well the front and rear responds to road imperfections.
Steering
I did check the steering fluid and it was holding steady without any noticeable leaks. I can grab the steering shaft above the steering box and move it by hand without much if any deflection in the steering linkage below. So definitely a steering box issue. >:( Other than seeing what I can do by tearing down my own boxes I kept dreaming about what I could improve with an entire front clip upgrade rather than spending the coin on a blueprinted box.
Cultch
Al and I did some clutch Master Cylinder comparisons. Didn't worry about the rest of the system as it is identical to the T56 Camaro including the clutch on my truck. S10 Master has 18mm bore with 35.9mm stroke. Camaro is 19/36, so the S10 doesn't push as much volume as the Camaro. The internet says the 7/8" bore aftermarket slaves are popular; 19mm is essentially 3/4", but have to find another solution for the clutch start and cruise switches on the factory master. Any other GM masters that fit the square hole are the same part number as the S10. Al did some internet sleuthing and looks like a 94-97 Ram may have a square attachment hole too with a larger bore, so hopefully I can find the right combo in the yard to test fit.
Another thought floated was to extend the master push rod. Both Al and I are shoving the pedal all the way to the floor to catch the start switch on our respective T56 swaps. It's so far down both of us ditched floor mats independently, so it might be a matter of not enough travel available for the pedal. Or it's just another result of the smaller volume available.
We didn't jump into the slave cylinder side of the equation. The internal style slave uses a hollow tube of fluid instead of a solid cylinder like a push rod style, so it's not as easy to find dimensions for. I have an extra slave on the shelf and might have one in the scrap bin too that I will try and get measurements for. I know that the Gen 1 CTS V owners often uses later slave cylinders on clutch/flywheel swaps (C6 vette slaves for example), so there might be something bolt in out there for the slave side of the equation.
I keep kicking around the idea of writing up a few condensed posts on the 5.3 swap. Part numbers, costs, tools, techniques, etc. I've got most of the info on my coolant system pulled together. Trying to decide if and how to integrate with the Budget 5.3 thread. Any opinions out there? My motivation to write or spend time in front of the computer has been really crap as it seems to take me forever to pull my thoughts together lately, but if there's solid interest I'm more than willing to work through that.
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welcome back! Good to hear everything went well!
the NT01s have pretty stiff sidewalls so that probably helps keep your wheels round. unlike the snow tires I have on the miata where I cracked a wheel and tore a sidewall this winter on I-75
I have several alternators and probably slave cylinders too if you need more selections.
how about moving the clutch MC pushrod pivot on the clutch pedal down a touch? i don't know where in the misalignment the pushrod is sitting stock, but maybe moving it down 1/4" would be enough to get you more stroke and possibly retain the start safety switch? (this is assuming the pedal touching carpet/mat/floor is the stroke limitation and not the MC bottoming. I cut away my mat and my carpet is worn pretty much all the way through under the clutch pedal which makes me think the MC may not be getting full stroke.
interesting to hear the gen1V owners use something different for the slave.
I know the ls1/6 vs the ls2/3 have different flywheel/clutch geometries so i wonder if they changed the PP spring rates and stroke required too.
I never had an issue on the rx7 running the ls2/3/7 style clutch/flywheel with the ls1 t56 slave, but then again i was running a totally different MC/pedal setup too.
Take your time with the updating of your gained knowledge to share, doesn't seem like anyone is really doing much on this forum this winter anyways! i know i havent!
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Isn't moving the pivot point up what we want? Goal would be to move the pedal further from the floor/firewall to gain more clearance for more stroke. Sounds like you're in the same boat as both Al and I with the clutch to the floor.
I keep reading about shims or shimming slave cylinders, different torque values for pressure plates affecting where the spring fingers are located, as well as some sort of difference between the C6 slave cylinder and earlier applications with the T56.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v-2004-2007-gen-i/1642218-cts-v-ls7-clutch-upgrade-how-confused-read.html
This thread has a bunch of info for the LS7 clutch into a gen1V that may or may not be related or helpful. I'm definitely curious what the dimensional differences are between the 2 slaves and if it may be another solution path. The fact that the 2 options for the V are the earlier slave + spacer vs C6 slave makes me think the C6 is longer or has more travel or something along those lines.
If you have any other slave options than the NV3500 or T56 I'm interested in what you have. Also interested if you have any non-squeaky alternators that might work. Autozone said mine was completely bad, but for whatever reason I just didn't get the warm fuzzy feeling of confidence in their work. It still seems to put out voltage, but maybe not enough? I haven't written off my wiring either, so wanting to confirm for myself. All I know is the issue likely killed my old battery and the gauge shows in the 12V range rather than the 14+ I'm used to seeing on the gauge.
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moving the pedal pivot point upward (longer pedal) would also work, but i was originally saying moving the pushrod point on the pedal lower. (longer pushrod stroke per pedal face stroke)
I did all the reading and measuring on the shimming of slaves (nv3500, stock setup) and i was definitely in the correct spot. I'd be hesitant to shim it because you might lose out on full clamp force if you go too far.
didn't really read the ls1tech link yet, maybe later.
i only have nv3500 slaves, sorry.
i grabbed the least-squeaky alternators the junkyard had, plus the one that came off the blazer, i dont remember off the top of my head which i have mounted to the 5.3 now, but i have some selection for sure.
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No, I wasn't talking about the pedal pivot, but I was also wrong in my thinking in my last post.
Moving the master pushrod down on the pedal shortens the pedal stroke for the same master stroke. I think we're on the same page there, now. Drawback will be more force required to move the pedal.
There's a ton of information and probably misinformation to sort through in that thread. To start out with I want to get the pedal out of carpet at full stroke and play with the pedal ratio, master size and/or slave size from there. I'm with you on the shimming, at least on the T56 I'm setup exactly as the LS1 Camaro would have been from the factory using all factory or factory replacement parts.
I need to sit in the truck and actuate the pedal again as well as look under the dash. I keep thinking I'd prefer lengthening the pushrod or the more attractive option of moving the pushrod mounting point on the pedal forward in vehicle. I've got a bracket design in my head that seems pretty simple to do without chopping up the pedal and could even add in extra holes to adjust the point up/down for pedal feel/travel preference. It would however bring the pedal position toward the driver and I'm not sure how that would feel in real world driving.
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Did a big scrap run yesterday, but while I was at the shop tried to get some better engine bay pictures and even threw on the truck engine cover to see how that cleans things up. It doesn't quite fit underhood, but I think there are a few things I can do to lower the front of it down.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4702/38462385480_88db88e034_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21AMMcf)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4678/25401404467_f9eb4df618_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EGCQzr)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4700/40272282811_6b0561a07e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24mHYBD)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4766/25401403827_45ec909656_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EGCQop)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4724/40272280301_d3de91b8ff_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24mHXSn)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4715/40227771612_2731f98bba_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24hMQZb)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4666/38462390680_461731cbdf_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21AMNJU)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4704/40227770932_41b907b0e4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24hMQMs)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4661/38462389380_374d2e2d08_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21AMNmu)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4661/38462389380_374d2e2d08_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21AMNmu)
A couple interior shots too. I realized the other day I didn't have any pictures with the interior complete.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4754/38462386650_9ed08e150d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21AMMxq)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4712/40227770152_a130cac45b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24hMQy1)
I also took a few minutes to do a video walk around of the engine bay. Turned out better than I thought even though I turned on the camera without a real plan.
https://youtu.be/MD9CaAaKmkE
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Looking at the rear is amazing !! I want fat tires on the rear of my Blazer so bad.
The motor swap as awesome as well & I know you are enjoying the LS power.
Its probably in your thread but how did you get the heater hose's to hook up with the truck intake ??
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The rear is one of my favorite views too!
Not sure what you're asking about the heater hoses exactly. They clear fine at the heater core and run along the intake on the passenger side, but under the fuel rail. I made a new bracket for the stock hose mount to help hold them in place. Let me know if that doesn't answer your question.
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I have seen a few people say that the have issues with the hoses hitting the back of the truck intake....maybe thats in the S10 & the Blazer doesnt have that issue.
Good to know.
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I guess I can't talk for the standard swap mounts. I made my own to lower the engine an extra inch or so with the extra crossmember clearance the Blazer has over the S10. I basically lowered the engine until the GM hot rod pan was just above the bottom of the frame and made my transmission crossmember to a 5* engine angle.
I hadn't heard of that problem for the standard truck intakes, though, but had heard some people mention it for the trailblazer SS manifold.
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When I did my swap in the S10 I used CPW mounts & the GM performance pan it just barely hung below the crossmember like 1 inch & I used the LS1 intake & the heater hose hookups were just above the intake but I could see the truck intake being a problem.
Whats the dif between the truck intake & the SS Trailblazer ??
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I don't know what the differences are. I get the impression it performs better than the truck intake, but that's all reading between the lines.
If you didn't know already the Blazer frames have extra height built in, so the GM performance pan is above the bottom of the frame by an inch or so with the CPW mounts. I made new upper mounts to lower it down on my truck.
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I see you are heading to Fla......Wish I could get some time off & hang with you.. I am over on the West coast ..Tampa area.
Have a safe trip & enjoy the weather !!
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I'll be driving by Tampa at some point on Wednesday.
I'm excited for the new project, but the Blazer should continue to get some love if only to get some of the small issues taken care of, so I can enjoy it more with the warmer weather up here in the North haha
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Put another 1000 miles on the Blazer this last weekend. As in I drove about as far as I could within the state of Michigan without leaving the state lines for a hill climb, but not the kind that uses horsepower.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/953/28248158638_b94f3d69de_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K3ccpU)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/911/28248145808_6ef8240d4f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K3c8AG)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/907/28248136568_4d9ab35511_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K3c5Ro)
Grabbed a couple pictures of the Blazer in the scenery on the way back.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/828/42074159592_4e836fdc13_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/276X4NG)
You can see some of the ice still in the Lake Superior off in the distance.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/969/42074182532_163050b2b5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/276XbCd)
And crossed the Mackinac Bridge a couple times too.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/829/41400090364_7204b10b70_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/265ohvs)
Weather has been nice, so it's actually been getting driven around town lately too.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/975/28248089128_086e91c759_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K3bQKs)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/953/28248084218_36d4337f68_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K3bPhN)
Heater core sprung a minor leak about an hour before I got home, so that will be getting replaced once Amazon makes the delivery. Hopefully this one will last longer than 12k miles. >:(
Also picked up a clutch master option Al and I came across. So far it is looking very promising for curing the clutch disengagement the S trucks seem to have. I'll get some pictures and details up in their own thread in a day or two.
I also need to get ontop of finding a steering box solution. It's more than a bit nerve wracking how much slop the box has. It's mostly fine when I'm pushing the handling, but it's hard to keep it from driving all over the road while trying to go straight down the highway. I do have a couple somewhat local contacts that do steering box rebuilds, but I'll have to see what I find cracking open one of the spares I have around too.
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awesome! did you win the hillclimb?
looking forwards to hearing about the clutch MC
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awesome! did you win the hillclimb?
I did not haha Definitely had no idea what I was getting into. It was a blast though! I'm sure I can do better than the 44th place I did this time around, but not sure I could win one anytime soon. Winner was under 5 minutes. I came in at 7:40.
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Holy shit i just saw the results
a 3:30 gap between the leading mens vs womens? why is there such a big difference?
Women's Winners:
First Place: Anna Mooi, 25, Ironwood, (7:15.3)
Men's Winners:
First place: Ian Torchia, 22, of Marquette (4:47.5)
Good work, you didn't blow an achilles tendon so you did good!
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Hahaha yeah still have my achiles intact and nothing else broke either. Calves are super tight. I could hardly get a massage they're so tender/sore.
I think the huge discrepancy has more to do with training/background than gender. On the men's side I talked with a bunch of Mountain Runners, Stair Runners, and even some ski jumpers who run the hills for training. On the women's side it was mostly ultra distance runners, which makes for a strong runner, but like me probably did not have much if any experience running up something like this.
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Put another 1500 miles on this. Drove out to Minneapolis for a Tough Mudder. Won it this time 8) and then out to the Cleveland area for a few days before returning to Detroit. I actually got the 7/8 bore clutch master installed, but still having some issues with it. Blazer is currently apart in an attempt to increase the travel, so I'll save the full rundown for another couple days.
I also had the steering box rebuilt by a local place that was recommended to me before this last trip. I'll give them the benefit of the doubt for now, but still major slop in the steering. While Al was out at the shop working on the S10e he helped me look around for slop in the linkage. Both the idler and center link are worse for wear after only 14k miles. They're also the only 2 pieces in the entire steering other than the steering box that is factory replacement. I've got some ideas of how to replace the center joints with heims, but stuck on what to do about the idler. Easy choice would be to call up Proforged and have them send me warranty replacements, but both of these were fresh when I got the Blazer on the road back in December.
Any thoughts from you guys? I'm not against fabbing up something to replace either, but a fully custom steering has its own set of issues with how many miles I like to put on my cars. Rack & pinion would be awesome, but I've not had any luck finding a front steer rack let alone something narrow enough. I should probably start looking outside the GM section if I decide to really go that route.
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congrats on the win!!
looking forwards to seeing the write-up on the clutch stuff
i've been replacing balljoints and idlers almost twice a year back when the blazer was on offroad duty.
are the 2wd and 4wd idlers the same part?
I know people do the 1 ton idler swap on the 4wds but i haven't seen an aftermarket setup i particularly like yet.
not sure how the 2wd frames like that concept
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I'm sure you've covered this but a quick search didn't pull up anything.
How did you fasten your e-fan to the plastic end tanked radiator?
i'm used to modifying aluminum end tanks to accept any mounts but plastic is hard to deal with!
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congrats on the win!!
looking forwards to seeing the write-up on the clutch stuff
i've been replacing balljoints and idlers almost twice a year back when the blazer was on offroad duty.
are the 2wd and 4wd idlers the same part?
I know people do the 1 ton idler swap on the 4wds but i haven't seen an aftermarket setup i particularly like yet.
not sure how the 2wd frames like that concept
Thanks! I've been placing pretty well this year, so far. I have plenty more races on the schedule, so hoping to bank on those a bit.
I'm half tempted to see how long Proforged will live up to their warranty if I'm replacing them as fast as they seem to be wearing out.
4WD and 2WD steering is all different. The joint at the end of the idler and pitman is part of the centerlink on 2WD. That's reversed on the 4WD. I'm fairly certain from past research that the dimensions of the centerlink are different between the two. Al mentioned the 1 ton idler as well. Might be worth a look what other options are out there if I can't keep the factory idler tight.
I'm sure you've covered this but a quick search didn't pull up anything.
How did you fasten your e-fan to the plastic end tanked radiator?
i'm used to modifying aluminum end tanks to accept any mounts but plastic is hard to deal with!
I used a Cavalier radiator with the built in fan/mounts. It's only 1 speed, but has been plenty fine so far. The Grand Am uses the same core, but has a 2 fan/2 speed setup. I'll probably source this one for future builds. They're both the same core size as the 2.2 radiator, which also happens to be the same size as the popular V8 swap Corvette radiator. The Cavalier and Grand Am are both thicker than either the 2.2 or Corvette. Again, no issues with cooling as of yet and I've driven it in the heat of summer, now.
I recessed mine into the core support, but you could pick up and cut down the 2.2 shroud to mount either of those without any major modifications. The Cavalier does have a slim end tank on the passenger side, which makes it recess easier.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/502/18851674484_07075269d8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/uHRL3q)
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I posted about the clutch and hydraulics in that particular thread, but have knocked out a few other things along the way.
Warrantied the proforged idler and center link. Slight improvement in steering slop. I think. Definitely blaming the steering box for what is left.
I added in an accelerator pedal stop to my bracket. Before if I floored it the truck would go into limp mode because the 2 position sensors would get out of sync and 100% throttle was only maybe 25% of the way to the floor anyway. It's definitely a step up being able to put it "all the way down" and know I'm getting WOT and won't go into limp mode haha
Right angle bracket with a bolt and nut to adjust if desired.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1886/42599243020_5cabe1de43_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27UmfPf)
I don't think I shared many if any pictures of my pedal and bracket. It's pretty simple with a C Channel welded to the original pedal bracket at about a 15-30 degree angle. Pedal is out of an S10e, but it's pretty much the same as GMT400 diesel pedal.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1845/42599236820_8c18fb47b0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/27UmdYm)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1856/43690948454_681bca512c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/29yPwNJ)
Al and I also updated the PCM tune a bit. We had started with the original Yukon 5.3 tune that came with the PCM originally and modified parameters from there. The cruise has been completely inop and the fuel gauge tables weren't exactly right, so we did a couple segment swaps to match the Vehicle, Engine, and Transmission.
A bunch of other stuff started working right/better and found a few new issues now that most everything in the tune is setup correctly. Idle is lower and happier with all the manual transmission tables setup correctly.
Throttle sensitivity is much improved now too. In first gear before it was so sensitive it would buck if I wasn't at nearly 0 or WOT. I can actually modulate in first gear now.
Also found out that I wired the Reverse Inhibit Solenoid and Skip Shift Solenoid backwards because the PCM is actually controlling them now.
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It takes a long time to work out all the bugs on big projects like this. Sounds like it will be perfect eventually!
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Does that mean your reverse lockout solenoid is working now? I never did bother wiring it up in my bliz, yours is like a luxury cruiser now. ;D
Glad its running better. Lets keep picking away at it!