LSx oil cooler adapter

obviously this exact thing wont be ideal for you guys because its for my rx7, but figured it might help spark ideas for you too

I'm designing an LSx oil cooler adapter that incorporates an extra bung for accusump feed.
also trying to package the mazda oil pressure sender (post oil cooler)
and an oil temp sender (pre cooler)

currently, mocal, improved racing, etc all make various kinds, but they are not "ideal" for me because they require a separate Tee fitting to get a -10AN line to the accusump.
and the ginormous mazda pressure sender doesnt work well with them. (and im a cheapass)

This will be going in my FC with longtubes.
I just cut out and taped together a paper scale model to take home and try out to see if there are any clearance issues.

otherwise, anyone have some criticisms for this?

1/2" minimum passages all around, and -10AN male fittings will be welded on.





using GM 15203889 gasket

made a paper mock-up piece



aand tried it out





looks like it'll work as-is YAY!,
but i'm gonna add a touch more length to it so the "to accusump" sideways port/fitting clears the exhaust a bit more.




i've got miles of room to move it forwards, only problem is i dont want to have to go out and buy a special long ass 1/2" drill bit.

everything else fits super nice, super happy.

You've certainly put a lot of thought into this block.  Looking at the CAD I was going to ask why you drilled the large bore so deep for the temp sensor, but then turned on the layer with the temp sensor.  Makes more sense realizing it needs to be surrounded by fluid.  Still I wonder if you could put the temp sensor on the bottom like the pressure sensor to grab that extra clearance to the header.  Are you using the GM temp sensor or a different one?  I know the GM connector and housing is plastic and won't like the heat.

Only other concern was the fitting on the output hanging over the edge of the block.  I'm sure you've checked clearances there, but I'm the type to keep it all within the block.

What is driving the influence to weld the fittings on rather than tap and thread.  I'm trying to remember if they sell weld bungs without the hex.  It would help packaging quite a bit, but remove any wrench support on the block side.

thanks for the input,

I can't package the temp sender from below due to the lack of material 'wall' required for such a 'deep' sender.
if i were to go from below the sender tip would protude into the flowpath and impede flow.
I wanted my sender to be as close to the flow as possible without impeding flow, and i think this is a good compromise.
the header is close, but with this aftermarket sender (has the wires potted into the back of the sender) I can get heat shielding over the wires+sender head well, with the connector further away from heat.

the block actually has an undercut 'above' that area so the clearances for the output fitting are huge. depending on how it looks before welding, i can shave an edge down on the hex to keep it contained in the block


I am not a fan of taper threads as a seal, especially within aluminum, plus, threads take up a large portion of room and require significant wall thicknesses (especially taper threads)
I do not have specialty tools to make o-ring ports so that idea is out.

Yes, they do sell non-hex weld on fittings, but they are obnoxiously expensive. I have had good luck cutting down Male-Male AN fittings (cheapest variation i've seen) and welding on that.
I can obviously turn down the hex if I wanted to, but the hex allows for better reaction torque, and also allows me to run a larger bore which helps with tolerance stackups.

I updated a couple things today, but probably not noticable if not viewing the actual cad model.

That is pretty much the answer I was expecting.

done.


polished it up a bit in hopes of reflecting heat too

Simple, but I like it

polished it up a bit in hopes of reflecting heat too

...

more like

polished is up so it'll bling bling!

did a pressure test (to 110psi or whatever shop air is at) and super glad i did before bolting it on.
found a pinhole leak at a porous weld, tried to weld over that and learned the regulator gauge on the gas tank is sticky, so i had no gas, and contaminated the crap outta that area. had to mill that whole section off and reweld.

now it has no leaks, and i would not be worried about bolting it into the car.
only reason im hesitant to actually bolt it in is because i'd have to loop 2 of the fittings (or actually run it to the oil cooler) before i can fire up the car, which shouldnt be all too long from now because Al and Harley came by last night with my pcm for me.

I'm afraid I'm going to have to ask you to slow down a bit, you're really starting to make the rest of us look bad.

The pen is rah... rah... rah... rahoyal blue!