Wilwood reverse-mount pedals

I've been doing some wishful browsing, and came across these:


Link Here

I know slim to nothing about this set-up, and figured I'd ask you folks. The main reason I'm interested is to get rid of the booster/master in the engine bay, for a cleaner look. If I went this route, I would opt for a completely shaved engine bay. My mind for my truck is in two places: Function and form. It's going to look amazing, drive amazing, and go fast.

1. Would the lack of booster make a drastic difference in brake pressure required, or is the difference made up in pedal ratio?
2. Master Cylinder size. are there formulas to calculate the MC size according to caliper piston size?
3. Are there any track rules/regulations regarding brake lines inside the cab?
4. Does the pedal's balance bar for the front/rear MC's eliminate the need for a prop valve?

Sorry for the lack of research and stupid questions, I'm lazy and would rather ask than research Thanks in advance!

link isnt working, but im pretty sure i know what you are talking about.

if it is purely for looks, it's a lot of hassle to deal with.

for function, the main benefit is the extra "feel" you get.

you'd want to calculate the line pressure you were running with the booster, and match that with the new pedal ratio/MC bore to start, and then you can change how you want it to feel, more pedal displacement based or pedal force based.

as far as i know, i've never seen a rule regarding brake lines in the cab.
a brake line bursting is a low fixed flow fluid so its more of an annoyance spewing in the cab than other fluids (aside from the fact that you lose brake function).
Many race cars i've seen have the brake fluid reservoirs mounted inside the cab to keep en eye on fluid levels.

balance bar and prop valves function in different ways to accomplish the same problem. both are bandaids, i think the balance bar curve makes more sense. I have seen people run both, but I am only running a balance bar for now.

I would highly recommend picking up a racing brake system book. they will answer all your questions way better than I can.

I'm mainly considering it for the look, yes, but obviously there is more to it than that. I'll start book shopping and researching in general, thanks!

How do you plan on filling the resevoir? Remote resevoirs can only be mounted higher than MC.. So, get ready to cut a hole/access panel in your dash. More than likely you'd need to build your own dash w/ enough clearance between the MC & gauges.  Seems like a lot of work for something only noticible when the hood is popped... & definately a lot of work for something that is only cosmetic. Screw that way... you want to hide the MC AND booster??? Get a street rod MC/Booster combo & weld in the mount. Check out Speedway Motors. I'll look for a setup so you can get a clue. A lot less work. No dash mods or gauge changes... keeps all the brake lines OUT of the cab AND allows you room to run a booster... vacuum OR hydroboost.

W/booster ==> http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Under-Floor-Power-Brake-Hydraulic-Clutch-Assembly,46286.html

W/out booster ==> http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Under-Floor-Manual-Brake-Hydraulic-Clutch-Assembly,46285.html


That's two simple options. Don't know if you're running an auto or manual trans. Doesn't really matter.. you can always remove the 2nd pedal OR try & find just a brake setup. Street rodded T & A's.. think about it.

Model T/A single pedal. Dual style MC. ==> http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Master-Cylinder-Pedal-Assembly-for-Model-T-A-1932-Ford,3285.html

on my rx7 my brake fluid reservoirs are under the hood.
i decided the clutch fluid reservoir didnt need to be super accessible so it is behind the dash cluster.
i suppose on an s10 the wiper cowl might not be a horible place to hide them

on my rx7 my brake fluid reservoirs are under the hood.
i decided the clutch fluid reservoir didnt need to be super accessible so it is behind the dash cluster.
i suppose on an s10 the wiper cowl might not be a horible place to hide them

I had considered doing reverse masters with remote reservoirs inside the cowl with an access panel. Way outside of my plans now though.

1. Would the lack of booster make a drastic difference in brake pressure required, or is the difference made up in pedal ratio?
2. Master Cylinder size. are there formulas to calculate the MC size according to caliper piston size?
3. Are there any track rules/regulations regarding brake lines inside the cab?
4. Does the pedal's balance bar for the front/rear MC's eliminate the need for a prop valve?

this is to the best of my knowledge

1. no booster will increase pedal effort, all else remaining equal. the difference is mitigated with pedal ratio.
2. probably, i dont know. i do know that when you lose the booster, 7/8" seems to be the ticket from all the power to manual swaps ive seen for gbodys and s10s. some people run 15/16" or 1" bore as well.
3. that will be different for each santioning body. ive never heard a rule against it.
4. greencactus already answered the same way i would have. i would prefer a balnce bar over a prop valve.

Thanks for the great info, guys.

Hammer head, I don't like the idea of everything being under the floor. I'll be filling the frame up with dirt more than a few times when I spin out off the track, unavoidable when learning.

Plans for a custom aluminum and/or sheetmetal dash have always been in my head, both to test my fabrication skills and since I love the looks of them.

I think I'll get my rear end and brakes figured out, then decide how far to go with the rest. I'm currently considering the 13" flynbye setup for the front, and matching 13's in the rear, or 12's, i'm up in the air about which axle to use.