random pictures from the internetz

More than half the auto-x races I run are in the rain so even if I didn't drive the truck in the winter I think I would need inners.

a little water splashing shouldnt hurt anything

My first thought seeing that was that it's a great idea, but I don't know how still that'll actually be. It is great for clearance, sure, but unless that's a 2" solid bar, it won't be as stiff as stock.

on 2nd glance, that front bar might not be all that stiff overall, halfway on the uca, long ass arms.

i change my mind. i see the balljoint now.
so without measuring and doing math, it'll be hard to know what the transfer rate is compared to the 33mm zq8 bar, but it'll be a whole lot easier to tune at least.

link to a build for that remote mount turbo?

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/ls1-sonoma-gt-build-pics-457120/

Here's the build thread on the black widow truck http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=561670 it's not too informative but they do talk about the sway bar a little. I also know this happened
http://bangshift.com/blog/caption-this-photo-more-fire-bill-speed-blows-it-up-on-a-hot-lap-in-the-black-widow-exhaust-s10-pickup.html

I just read that build thread - they did some great, low dollar stuff.  Too bad they went light on the details in the thread.

that fire paint scheme is impressive.
looks like the truck is on fire!

He does mention how it's not stiff enough, but says he wants to screw with mounting points on the UCA. It says up a bit farther that it's only .188 wall tubing. He really needs to increase wall thickness more than anything. The same OD with .250 wall would increase stiffness by about 50%.

He does mention how it's not stiff enough, but says he wants to screw with mounting points on the UCA. It says up a bit farther that it's only .188 wall tubing. He really needs to increase wall thickness more than anything. The same OD with .250 wall would increase stiffness by about 50%.

changing the mounting points closer to the balljoint will make a huger difference too.
it will twist the bar more for the same wheel travel.

plus it doesnt add any mass. just gotta watch out to not exceed the strength of the material though.

What do you guys think about welding on the center link like that?  I was under the impression that was a huge no-no.

What do you guys think about welding on the center link like that?  I was under the impression that was a huge no-no.

I'm no welding expert, but from what I hear cast parts are fine to weld as long as you prep correctly including pre heating of the cast part.  It is certainly an attractive solution to our bumpsteer woes, but I've been happy so far with the improvement with just the Lower Tall Ball Joint.

What do you guys think about welding on the center link like that?  I was under the impression that was a huge no-no.

i see nothing wrong with it if you do it well.

What do you guys think about welding on the center link like that?  I was under the impression that was a huge no-no.

I'm no welding expert, but from what I hear cast parts are fine to weld as long as you prep correctly including pre heating of the cast part.  It is certainly an attractive solution to our bumpsteer woes, but I've been happy so far with the improvement with just the Lower Tall Ball Joint.

I feel like I still have substantial bumpsteer issues, even with the tall lower BJs.  I have a more conservative alignment than in the past (some toe-in) and it's still a real handful to keep it going straight on uneven roads.  I've run the same 275/40-17 R888's on my firebird and it's not nearly as darty (even with blown shocks).

What do you guys think about welding on the center link like that?  I was under the impression that was a huge no-no.

I'm no welding expert, but from what I hear cast parts are fine to weld as long as you prep correctly including pre heating of the cast part.  It is certainly an attractive solution to our bumpsteer woes, but I've been happy so far with the improvement with just the Lower Tall Ball Joint.

I feel like I still have substantial bumpsteer issues, even with the tall lower BJs.  I have a more conservative alignment than in the past (some toe-in) and it's still a real handful to keep it going straight on uneven roads.  I've run the same 275/40-17 R888's on my firebird and it's not nearly as darty (even with blown shocks).

I'm running 15" snow tires at the moment and the tie rods aren't fresh, so something mushy could be hiding the problem still, but it's improved.  Just aligned the truck to -0.5, 5.5 and almost 0 toe.  They said they couldn't get it to toe in for some reason, but I'll fix that myself at some point.

I'm running 16" f-body wheels with 225/55's for winter and I don't notice it with those but it's pretty bad with the big summer tires.  My alignment specs are similar but with 1/8" toe-in. 

Something from that build thread keeps sticking in my mind. They removed all the body bushings under the cab to pick up a little extra drop, then modified the bed mounts to line it back up. On my blazer, I wouldn't have to worry at all about bed mounts, just pull all the body mounts out, clearance as necessary, and have an extra 1/2" of drop.

Plus the ease of solid mounting the roll cage.  The Y pipe is tight on the floor for me and I've kicked ideas around of how to improve that, but not super interested in taking another swing at it with how well it it put together.  Future proofing for a cage with the body bushing removed would require it though.  Better to do it while it is tacked together instead of after it is finish welded.

http://solomatters.com/rolling_awesome_the_ver_mulm_camaro
enjoy

s10 frame and body. metric Monte Carlo IMCA suspension (control and trailing arms). Coil springs front and rear with adjustable Screw jacks. the motor is 350ci 350hp 400ft lb. torque. Muncie short range 4 speed (need to change gears, 3;73 wont get me over 100mph). 10 bolt metric monte rear end. and it LOVES round abouts! basically built just like my Sportsman oval track Race car, but equaled left and right springs because I was sick of only turning left. Always wanted to run road coarse tracks like Road America and love early S10's.

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/109826-Road-coarse-(so-far-street-legal)-90-S10         Pretty cool, hopefully he posts some more info/pics

He's not too terribly far from me.