5.3 LS engine harness build notes

First off I am going to apologize for the massive amount of info i will have on here, with little organization.
I plan to gather all the info I can from the internet and compile it here in hopes of having enough info to modify this harness myself without spending the shitton of money ($400 is the cheapest plug and play harness I can find)

Key notes
http://www.lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm

I have a 2003 LM7 with a damaged harness (came with JY motor) and have an intact harness from the same year truck. I labeld what I could before removing the damaged harness. Each has a black box with a lot of terminals and pink wires that leads me to believe this is the fuse box base. What does the top part look like, and are they available anywhere?

I did a wiring conversion diagram for the GM LS1 harness for my Supra, the lo-res version is http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/1668000-1668999/1668435_44_full.jpg

It looks like there are not too many power in requirements for this motor, and I suspect the LM7 will be similar.

EDIT:
Pic of what I'm referring to:
(http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/1668000-1668999/1668435_45_full.jpg)

I used 8 fuses for my LM 7 swap, computer constant power, computer ign power, computer ignition power 2, coils even, coils odd, front o2, fuel pump, and MAF.

I don`t know if the upper part of the connector is available, I think that may be part of the fuse center.  I just cut that connector off and put a couple Weatherpack connectors on.

OK, more info...

C1 connector (GM designation) (light grey color) contains the starter solenoid wire, position C10, purple with white trace.  Connect this to the wire that went to your old starter solenoid.  Also, A9, pink, is switched ignition return from the ignition switch.  Connect this to the circuit that used to power the ignition coil.

C2 connector (engine harness, black), I left as is.  I am keeping all of the emissions controls...

C3 connector( Lighting, red). F1, grey, is the fuel pump switched power.  Connect directly to the fuel pump.

C4 connector (lighting, green). I am not using it, but it does contain one wire for the stock AC system.

C5, black.  Not used.

C6, brown.  There are two wires coming from this connector, both red 10ga.  They are both fused by the maxifuses.  I used one as 12V supply to the ignition switch.  They are alway hot.

C7 & C8, not used.

Please note, I have not actually had my motor running yet.  The starter circuit is a definite, since I have turned the motor over with the key.  My fuel system is awaiting one part before I try to start it.  I will report back once I get to that point.

he later confirmed it was correct but

Found a mistake, sort of.  Power for the transmission, and the fourth power circuit for the PCM, is not fused or powered through the under hood fuse block.  In stock form it is fused through the in cab fuse block. The transmission will not shift as a result.  The fix is simple though.  Fuse #21 is not used, but is in place and intact.  The power wire for the trans needs to be moved from its current location to a different hole in the same connector.  I will post the details once I confirm this.

OK, an update.  Transmission power is supplied from socket F2 on connector C2 of the under hood fuse block.  In a round about way that power comes from the in cab fuse block.  Remove that socket from connector C2 and move it to pocket B9 on connector C2.  B9 is fused by fuse #24 (ETC Fuse, not normally used).  That fuse, and INJA, INJB and ECM1, run off of the same relay (IGN1 Relay), and therefore is switched 12V.  Can't confirm that it fixed my problem, too late in the evening to start the Jeep with no exhaust...

Make sure that the injector wiring has good ground. Check grounds behind drivers side head.

So I dropped a 5.3L 2005 Tahoe engine into a 1993 Silverado. I followed the wiring instructions using the underhood fuse block. I located the fuel pump wire, grey in red connector. I located the ignition wire, pink in grey connect A9. And wired the fuse box to the battery. Using the factory Tahoe harness there is a ground wire behind the driver's side head, a second ground wire next to it closer to the passengers' side head, a third ground wire that goes to the driver's side block. I've grounded the battery to the front of the passenger side head, grounded the block to the frame, and grounded the block to the body. There are  two orange wires going to the PCM that are always hot (+12V), and several pink wires that are always hot. The engine will not start. If I spray starter fluid into the intake the engine will stumble and almost start. That tells me, the plugs are sparking... right? I pulled the injectors off and turned the key. No fuel out of the injectors. However, if I leave the key in and allow the pump (which is working) to build pressure, I can trigger the injectors with two wires. One wire has ground and the other 12V. They do spray. The pink wires at the injectors all show +12V with the key in the run position, but never show anything on the ground wire (not even with the key in the crank position). I'm assuming the PCM is getting power because the engine kind of runs when I spray starter fluid in. However, is there more than one ignition wire I should be looking for? All my grounds seem to be in tact. I had previously sent my PCM to wait4me performance to have it reflashed. I'm stumped.:confused: Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=872006

some info is here, shows where to hook 12v+ for injectors, coils, pcm, also has info for pin locations for stuff for obd2 port, ses light, speed signals, etc.

this is for a 99

(http://www.lt1swap.com/pictures/99-00%20junction%20block%20underhood.jpg)

see circled pins on picture above
C1- B11 - RED this wire feeds 12v Battery+ to ignition switch, hot at all times.

C1 - A9 - PINK - this wire is FROM ignition switch, hot in RUN, START. This powers up fuses on block.

C3 - F1 - GRAY - Power feed to fuel pump.

You will also have to feed hot in RUN & START 12v+ down C100 pin C.  This powers up PCM and auto trans.  Protect it with 10 amp fuse.  This wire Usually gets its power from IGN 0 fuse in the underdash fuse block.
This Help??

nope, I mean C100  -  Pink wire on C100 pin C goes into fuse block on connector C2 pin E2, and turns right around INSIDE fuse block and feeds out of connector C2 pin F2.  Pink wire on F2 goes to PCM and Transmission.

this link might help too...  http://www.lt1swap.com/vortec_truck_pinouts/1999.htm



(http://www.lt1swap.com/pictures/100_2175.jpg)

http://www.lt1swap.com/underhoodfuseblock.htm

update - got some info from the guy who put together lt1swap.com. this is what i'll do with connector c100:

C delete, then do the F2 to B9 modification per jeepinpete
E To brake switch out via normally closed relay
G Check engine light
H Diagnostic port pin 2
M delete (SD2 wire #2)
R Keep just in case ('Fused Automatic Trans Shift Lock Control Feed')

Also, I'm deleting all AC wires.

Hey guys, I am attemtping to modify my wiring harness for my 2006 6.0 motor that is going into my Jeep.

Based on my planned setup:
- SM465 Manual transmission (motor originally came with a 4L60 mated to it)
- VATs, emissions, etc. removed
- No computer controlled A/C (am going to wire around it)
- Cooling fan controlled by PCM
- don't need cruise control
- Need output from Chevy computer for aftermarket gauges (voltage, oil pressure, coolant temp, tach, and speedometer)
- Drive-By-Wire

...i have come up with my best shot at figuring out what wires I need from the PCM to go to external connections, what wires I need to go to the fuse panel, and roughly how everything needs to be wired.  I've attached a few links to some scanned pinout sheets that i've marked up with my own comments.

For the PCM, I highlighted all of the wires in pink that I feel I don't need, and those that are going to external connections in blue.  I also put a red dot next to the ones I think I need for gauges (not sure which one I need for voltage gauge).  Problem is I have no idea if I am correct since I suck at wiring in general and have never done this before.  If anyone has the time, and could skim through and make sure I'm not removing something that I will end up needing that would be much help.  Also, below I've listed all of the connections that I am unsure of.  Since I'd like to remove as much as possible from the harness, I'm curious as to which of these I need and which I don't.


http://www.4shared.com/file/105567255/dd6513fa/2006_Vortec_PCM_Pinouts.html

C1
14/15 - UART Serial Data
33    - TCC Brake Switch (do I really need this if I am running a manual transmission?)
35    - CPP Switch Signal (M/T)
38    - Damping Lift/Dive 

C2
10 - Medium resolution Engine speed signal
18 - Clutch start switch signal
22 - AT ISS High Signal (4WD with MT1)
23 - AT ISS Low Signal (4WD with MT1)
49 - VSS (this is another VSS signal, I'm assuming it's an input from the speed sensor, and the other pin 50 is the output?)
59 - Crank Voltage
70/71 - GMLAN Serial Data (HP2) - (pretty sure I don't need this since the HP2 is the hybrid motor, just making sure)

I did the same thing with the fuse pinouts, only I highlighted the ones I felt I needed.  There is not much info on the actual pinout list as to what each pink wire is used for (most just say "Ignition 1 Voltage", so I checked my wiring diagrams and was able to determine what most of them were for.  Again, I've scanned and attached a printout.

http://www.4shared.com/file/105567164/8309cef6/2006_Vortec_Fuse_Panel_Pinouts.html

From what I can tell, the majority of the wires are coming from C2 Underhood (all pink, and the 2 orange for constant 12v to the PCM). There are a couple I'm not certain about - E11, F8 and F9.  I'm pretty sure I don't need F8/F9 but just wanted to be certain.  Also, on the C100 connector, the only ones I thought I might need are highlighted as well (only 3 of them).  I didn't see anything on C152 or C153 that I would need.  Does that look correct?

I apologize for all the questions, just wanting to make sure I do this correct the first time.

Also, a big thanks to Brendan from lt1swap.com........his website was extremely helpful.

I'm in the middle of installing a 2000 Silverado 5.3 into a 1989 Silverado.
Engine is in I'm using the factory harness with under hood fuse panel. Walbro fuel pump.

I have hooked up as follows:

C100
C pink needs 12v+ key, to supply power to pcm and transmission
H serial data, dk green

C1 connector light grey color contains the starter solenoid wire, position C10, purple with white trace.
Connect this to the wire that went to your old starter solenoid.
A9, pink, is switched ignition return from the ignition switch.
Connect this to the circuit that used to power the ignition coil.

C3 connector( Lighting, red). F1, grey, is the fuel pump switched power. Connect directly to the fuel pump.

When I crank the key:
I don't get 12V at the pump but like a 2 volt spike when I first turn it to on.
I get 12V coming from C10
Fuel pump relay clicks.
I'm able to read from PCM with HPT and have disabled VAT's.

I can jump the solenoid with the screw driver and the engine cranks but not with the key? Any ideas

sleepy... A7, dark green/white, is the FuelPump relay control. use this link to determine what you need and don't need.

and here's another link that the same guy put together here on ls1tech with excel files so you can keep track of what you delete. i highlighted all my proposed changes in the file before i did anything so i could get an idea of what i was doing before i started cutting.

Make sure your 'hot in run' wires are also hot during CRANKING.  ACcessory power from the key turns off when cranking, make sure they are on an IGNITION circuit from the key.

check your grounds.  The coil's get ground from the ground terminal located near the power steering pump, I see this one get left unhooked a lot, with same complaint of no spark.

good luck.

you would need a scan tool to read rpm when cranking.

might also check this.

at key on, fuel pump will run for 2 seconds then stop.  Crank it over, then stop cranking, leave key in run position and see if fuel pump continues for 2 seconds and then stop.

if fuel pump starts back up each time you crank it, the PCM IS getting crank signal.

ya know, the more I read and start to understand this, the more I think the only things I need are

http://www.lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm
http://www.lt1swap.com/vortec_truck_pinouts/1999.htm
http://www.lt1swap.com/99-02_vortec_pcm.htm
http://www.lt1swap.com/underhoodfuseblock.htm

$200 worth of electrical stuff coming in from Delcity today so i can actually start ripping into the harness tonight.

Also turns out the buddy I was gonna have reprogram the ECU for me can't reprogram it on his standalone harness he has. wrong plugs. (he's a cobalt guy with hptuners)

which means I gotta get the OBD2 plug working first thing on this harness.
not much info on that from what ive read so far.
I think all it takes is 4 wires. Orange, Black, Black, Purple.

I will snag the one off the S10 and thinking I wire them into the ECU directly,

pin 58 in Blue connector Serial Data to OBD2 Port is dk green... goes to pin 2 on obd port..
how about the others?



pin 46 in Red is for MIL.

Al already has a bench harness for such things.  If you have any questions I can forward them on.

Al already has a bench harness for such things.  If you have any questions I can forward them on.

If I have you take my ECU to him, how long/cost would it be to get him to

remove VATs,
set
tire size: 275/35/18 (dia 25.57 in   649.47 mm)

Remove all emissions.
   EGR, AIR Injection, EVAP System, Rear Oxygen Sensors etc

   
Remove Computer Controlled A/C?



Remove electronic speed limiter

if possible, anything that will help the trans last longer. higher line pressures, less slippage? etc

Al already has a bench harness for such things.  If you have any questions I can forward them on.

If I have you take my ECU to him, how long/cost would it be to get him to

remove VATs,
set
tire size: 275/35/18 (dia 25.57 in   649.47 mm)

Remove all emissions.
   EGR, AIR Injection, EVAP System, Rear Oxygen Sensors etc

   
Remove Computer Controlled A/C?



Remove electronic speed limiter

if possible, anything that will help the trans last longer. higher line pressures, less slippage? etc

5 minutes?  haha we could probably get it turned around in a week or so.

Al already has a bench harness for such things.  If you have any questions I can forward them on.

If I have you take my ECU to him, how long/cost would it be to get him to

remove VATs,
set
tire size: 275/35/18 (dia 25.57 in   649.47 mm)

Remove all emissions.
   EGR, AIR Injection, EVAP System, Rear Oxygen Sensors etc

   
Remove Computer Controlled A/C?



Remove electronic speed limiter

if possible, anything that will help the trans last longer. higher line pressures, less slippage? etc

5 minutes?  haha we could probably get it turned around in a week or so.

I might have you guys handle it for me then.
it's a red/blue ECU.
is that going to be okay? I know your engine is newer but is it still before green?

I really hate wiring.

i worked on it for about 4 hours last night, about halfway through the harness i think.
I'm following LT1swap's directions almost word for word, and its not too terrible.
note to anyone doing the same thing.
never retape the harness because you think its complete at that section. you usually have to untape again to fix it later.

I refuse to tape harnesses, it just makes a mess when it needs to get fixed. And while I would think it would go without saying, don't use the split plastic loom either. That's what the PO did on my blazer and it's a disaster, and it occasionally starts to melt while going down the road and stink, really badly.

I might have you guys handle it for me then.
it's a red/blue ECU.
is that going to be okay? I know your engine is newer but is it still before green?

We have enough S10s of various sorts around that at worst we could drop it in a truck and program that way.  My Blazer is a 411 and Al's is a P59 now which cover the two silver computers you could have IIRC.

I refuse to tape harnesses, it just makes a mess when it needs to get fixed. And while I would think it would go without saying, don't use the split plastic loom either. That's what the PO did on my blazer and it's a disaster, and it occasionally starts to melt while going down the road and stink, really badly.

yea, well I bought a shitton of shrinkwrap so i could do it 'right' but i realized that in order to use it i would have to unpin each connector. which I'm not sure I have the patience for. we'll see. although the split loom does give a nice layer of air insulation...
I'm still not sure if I'd want to eliminate that entirely with my noob skills of making a harness. especially since I only got single layer heatshrink, not raychem fanciness or anything

I might have you guys handle it for me then.
it's a red/blue ECU.
is that going to be okay? I know your engine is newer but is it still before green?

We have enough S10s of various sorts around that at worst we could drop it in a truck and program that way.  My Blazer is a 411 and Al's is a P59 now which cover the two silver computers you could have IIRC.

newer s10s use the same computer? i know my s10 has a black computer, but it has 4 plugs.

but yes, when can I drop it off?

The newer ones sure do.  I believe starting in 2001 they got a 411 (silver computer).  The P59 which is pretty much the same as a 411, looks the same, just has twice the memory and resolution in the tables, can be used with the 4.3s as well.

Let me know what you want changed.  The more specific the better.  You can drop it off anytime.  I'm around my place tonight, going to the game tomorrow, and back around my place Sunday afternoon.

The newer ones sure do.  I believe starting in 2001 they got a 411 (silver computer).  The P59 which is pretty much the same as a 411, looks the same, just has twice the memory and resolution in the tables, can be used with the 4.3s as well.

Let me know what you want changed.  The more specific the better.  You can drop it off anytime.  I'm around my place tonight, going to the game tomorrow, and back around my place Sunday afternoon.

oh cool, did not know that.

I'll come by on Sunday, shoot me a text once you are around.


List of changes I'd like:
remove ALL VATs,
set
tire size: 275/35/18 (dia 25.57 in   649.47 mm)

Remove ALL emissions.
   EGR, AIR Injection, EVAP System, Rear Oxygen Sensors etc

   
Remove Computer Controlled A/C

Remove electronic speed limiter

if possible, anything that will help the trans last longer. higher line pressures, less slippage? etc


Please everyone add to the list if you think of anything




and also

Quoting "Brendan Patten (LT1Swap.com)" <lt1swap@centurytel.net>:

> Your OBD2 port will need the following.
>
> 12v+ HOT at all times to pin 16.
> GROUND to pins 4 and 5
> DATA hooks up to pin 2.  This data wire comes from the BLUE pcm connector
> pin 58.  It is a dark green wire.

also

Pin 2.  -  Serial Data -  FROM the PCM.   

Pin 4 & 5 - GROUND - Usually only pin 5 is needed, however some scan tools/code readers will need GROUND on pin 4 as well.

Pin 16 - 12v+ BATTERY - Power from 12v+ Battery source.

so far going is smooth, all split loom is gone, mostly all shrinkwrapped up.

Harley and I did a quick test fit of the harness over the engine, figured out sorta how it gets routed, and got confused, and then figured out O2 wires.
there is a possibility I unpinned something I shouldnt have, or just plain missing a wire, and/or have it pinned wrong or something in that area. will be working with a multimeter to track down the issue soon.
Also realized I never got the Mass Airflow Sensor/IAT sensor with the engine.
$80+core at autozone. anyone ever see newer fullsizes at their junkyards? none of them around here seem to have any

update:

List of changes I'd like:
remove ALL VATs,
set
tire size: 275/35/18 (dia 25.57 in   649.47 mm)

Remove ALL emissions.
   EGR, AIR Injection, EVAP System, Rear Oxygen Sensors etc

  
Remove Computer Controlled A/C

Remove electronic speed limiter

if possible, anything that will help the trans last longer. higher line pressures, less slippage? etc

E-fan controls.
I believe it is usually
Blue 42,red33 for fan 1 and 2 neg switches

Please everyone add to the list if you think of anything