New From Scratch Wiring Harness

Ok, having been working on, and being that I'm about to delve slightly deeper into, my wiring I've found that the previous work has been a bit of a hack-job and that 23 year old wiring just is not up to par. All that being said, it seems like it's going to be a whole lot more work to try and figure out this hacked together harness and then repair it, than it would be to just start from scratch.

Along this line of thinking, my brain instantly went to fuse block first, cause that's really the heart of the whole shebang. In my research, I've found two real options. A nice Painless 12 circuit block with flashers for $150 or a Marine grade 12-circuit without flashers for $50. You all know me well enough to know that I instatly gravitated towards the cheaper, more work required option. So, any opinions on this fuse block:

http://www.amazon.com/BLUE-SEA-SYSTEM-BLOCK-SCREW/dp/B000MMH1GC/ref=sr_1_cc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1302074051&sr=1-2-catcorr

Also, I would like to keep most if not all of the interior switches stock-ish. So the headlight and parking light switches I would like to keep, as well as the AC controls. Having al ready had to fiddle with the AC controls a lot, I 've got their layout down pretty well, but anything I might be missing there. Guages will be replaced, so no worries there.

Finally, I know some of you have done most of this on a second gen, but not a DD and there are some start differences between the first and second gens, but any input at all would be appreciated. This is going to be a very long process, so no rush here.

http://www.delcity.net/store/8!way-fuse-block/p_10823.a_1

what i have.
not waterproof probably, but has a rubber seal. splashproof for sure. which is all you need i think

I did see something similar and wasn't sure if 8 would be enough, I guess I should figure out what all I want\need to keep. I do like the idea of the common rail positive though, run one wire to the fuse pannel from the batter and the rest runs off that to ground.

Once I have the headlight relay harness, I really won't need a fuse for just the switch side, but I suppose I should have something like a 5A inline just in case something shorts.

I suppose I should run a separate fuse for the hazards...

Park\Reverse lights
Brake Lights
Turn Signals
Wipers
AC\Fan
Ignition
Start
Accessory
ECM
Fuel

What am I missing?

Blimey, that;'s 12...

Might I suggest one of these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1991-91-CHEVROLET-S-10-Truck-Electrical-Wiring-Manual-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f738d96aQQitemZ300500441450QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature

I have one for my 91 and it's been a lifesaver and very helpful on numerous occasions.  If you go with a different block might help you figure out how to get everything hooked up best.  Might also help you save the original fuse block with your rewiring.   That would be both cheaper AND more difficult!    I'll probably say it again, but I'm a big fan of using OEM parts where I can.  I look at most of those aftermarket fuse blocks and cringe.  On the other hand I haven't found a compact OEM equivelant for them that would be easy to use.  Because of that I'm planning on keeping the stock one in my Blazer for now to save on adding more headaches to the project while getting it done faster... relatively.  Once it is on the road I may take the time again to find something I can use from the GM parts bin.

I have actually tracked down wiring diagrams for the entire truck online already and been pouring over them. But thanks for the link on that, I may get one anyways, just in case.

And if you do find a nice, compact OEM fuseblock that includes a blinker, do let me know, I'd be happy to use one too.

Is there a specific aspect of any of the fuseblocks here that you don't like? Just for learning sake.

i personally liked the non-common positive rail, just because i can have fuses that are const hot, ign hot, parklight hot, etc. extra logic to throw in

I had not even thought about that actually!

Upon thinking about it though, it seems like a bit of a non-issue, my brain can decypher when things need to be on, and the extra ease of wiring seems worthwhile to me, unless I'm missing something.

I had not even thought about that actually!

Upon thinking about it though, it seems like a bit of a non-issue, my brain can decypher when things need to be on, and the extra ease of wiring seems worthwhile to me, unless I'm missing something.

when on the track and you fumble the wrong switch up, if you have the safetys built in, you cant accidentally turn it on.
cant really think of a reason where that would be bad, but still.

only way im using mine currently is highs dont turn on unless headlights are on, and headlights dont turn on unless parking lights are on.

you can do the same with wipers. lights go on if wipers are used, etc

Is there a specific aspect of any of the fuseblocks here that you don't like? Just for learning sake.

They all look fragile to me.  Don't look very water/splash proof.  Connectors are often just simple ring or spade terminals.  For my power distribution I'd rather have something either more sealed or better attached than either of those.  I look at them and I see things either rattling apart or getting wet.  The OEMs already have the built in logic that Ryo is talking about, but that can be a negative too; trying to work around a setup that may or may not line up with your goals.  One of the main reasons I'm holding off for now.  Having places for relays built in is nice too.